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**BlackB12** · 04-11-2005, 12:38 PM

Why did it happen? Who knows. Sh!t happens sometimes. as far as the engine having to be taken out for a headgasket? No way. Doesn't have to come out. The head will come off leaving the cylinder block.

One thing though. Are you positive it's the head gasket and not some of the drain holes from the sparkplug tubes? sometimes the plug well gaskets leak filling the sparkplug tube up with oil which drains out the front of the engine. Also, if it is the head gasket, have you checked the head bolts torque?

**kantana** · 04-12-2005, 05:12 AM

Originally posted by BlackB12

Why did it happen? Who knows. Sh!t happens sometimes. as far as the engine having to be taken out for a headgasket? No way. Doesn't have to come out. The head will come off leaving the cylinder block.

One thing though. Are you positive it's the head gasket and not some of the drain holes from the sparkplug tubes? sometimes the plug well gaskets leak filling the sparkplug tube up with oil which drains out the front of the engine. Also, if it is the head gasket, have you checked the head bolts torque?

Tnx for the input, I guess I'm pretty positive that the problem is in head gasket, even though I did not have time to remove fairing yet. I should take a picture of it, I guess (I might still do it) but it just seemed obvious, you can see the point in the gasket, on the right side of the engine, where is the main point of leaking. If sparkplugs leaking was under suspicion, I guess there would be some traces of oil above the gasket, on cylinder head itself. And, since I did not remove fairing, I did not check head bolts torque, but it will certainly be done, before dissasembling of engine.
As far as taking out of the engine is concerned, my (I think quite competent) mechanic is not specialist for suzuki, and I have the only katana in the area, but I managed to find technical layout for katana 750 2000 and I printed it and showed it to him, and he said that he thinks the engine has to go out, because of something he saw on diagramm.
Tnx for effort.

**ThAzKat** · 04-12-2005, 05:25 AM

Oil on the side of the engine is common for a bike with miles on it. I topend gasket will take care of that for you. I am looking to do the same on mine. To answer the other question, NO, you can do it with the engine still in the bike.

**md86** · 04-12-2005, 12:10 PM

Huh , I just cleaned/degreased my engine , as there was an oil film on a few places . Waiting to see when/if/where it comes back . Just so I know , how hard is that gasket to replace for a non-mechanic ? You know , just in case ...

**The CyberPoet** · 04-12-2005, 04:40 PM

Usually this happens for one of three possible reasons:

(A) The previous owner use sub-par oil (or let the oil level get too low), and the temps at the head got hot enough to warp the head slightly (enough to permit weeping at that spot). Usually in conjunction with improper bolt torque...

(B) The old oil gummed up a spot against the gasket, and the gasket dried out/cracked/overheated. When you put in the better quality oil, the detergents in it washed away the gummed up residue, re-exposing the now brittle gasket and it gave over time.

OR

(C) Someone used 104 or higher octane race fuel in the bike, which because of the added oxygenators in it increases the combustion pressure to past stock compression ratios, resulting in excess pressure on the cylinder dome, warping the head a bit. This last doesn't option doesn't tend to happen often, but can, especially if a certain set of circumstances all coincide (at or close to sea level, engine running at RPM levels that match max HP on a dyno curve -- i.e. where compression ratios maximize on the bike, the engine is quite hot, AND they are using heavily oxygenated high-octane race fuels).

Hopefully the new gasket will resolve everything for you and you won't have to have the head milled. As for replacing the gasket without dropping the engine -- I have no clue how that could be accomplished for the cylinder head gasket (*not to be confused with the valve cover gasket).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

**ThAzKat** · 04-12-2005, 05:30 PM

Has this think been taken apart yet?

I wonder if you should put a straight edge on the head. Maybe check for fragments of material it the gasket area. HMMMM?

**Paladin** · 04-12-2005, 07:23 PM

What is the cost for a Valve cover gasket and where is the best place to order one? Getting ready to do a valve adjustment and want to make sure I have everything I need.

**The CyberPoet** · 04-12-2005, 09:16 PM

Originally posted by Paladin

What is the cost for a Valve cover gasket and where is the best place to order one? Getting ready to do a valve adjustment and want to make sure I have everything I need.

If you need to do it in the next five days, the dealership. If you can wait two weeks to get the gasket, RonAyers.com. I think it ran in the $40 range with shipping, including the gaskets for the spark plugs and the primary gasket.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

**Paladin** · 04-12-2005, 10:06 PM

Product Quantity Price
11177-27A00-H17 GASKET 1 $3.18
11179-27A02 GASKET HEAD COV 2 $3.55
11173-27A02 GASKET CYLINDER 1 $21.02
11178-27A01 GASKET HEAD COV 2 $3.30
09168-08008 CRKC BOLT GASKE 1 $0.70
09168-12002 GASKET OIL GALL 1 $0.70

SubTotal $39.30
Standard Shipping $7.00
Total $46.30

I guess this covers all the gaskets for the Valve Adjustment job

**kantana** · 04-13-2005, 04:18 AM

Originally posted by The CyberPoet

Usually this happens for one of three possible reasons:

(A) The previous owner use sub-par oil (or let the oil level get too low), and the temps at the head got hot enough to warp the head slightly (enough to permit weeping at that spot). Usually in conjunction with improper bolt torque...

(B) The old oil gummed up a spot against the gasket, and the gasket dried out/cracked/overheated. When you put in the better quality oil, the detergents in it washed away the gummed up residue, re-exposing the now brittle gasket and it gave over time.

OR

(C) Someone used 104 or higher octane race fuel in the bike, which because of the added oxygenators in it increases the combustion pressure to past stock compression ratios, resulting in excess pressure on the cylinder dome, warping the head a bit. This last doesn't option doesn't tend to happen often, but can, especially if a certain set of circumstances all coincide (at or close to sea level, engine running at RPM levels that match max HP on a dyno curve -- i.e. where compression ratios maximize on the bike, the engine is quite hot, AND they are using heavily oxygenated high-octane race fuels).

Hopefully the new gasket will resolve everything for you and you won't have to have the head milled. As for replacing the gasket without dropping the engine -- I have no clue how that could be accomplished for the cylinder head gasket (*not to be confused with the valve cover gasket).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

2 cyber : tnx for time it took to evaluate the situation. I think you got it right, reasons A or B might led to leaking, reason C (in my case) is not very probable. I do think that 19 k miles is too early for natural wear in engine.
English is not my native language (that is quite obvious), so I appologize for possible misunderstandings, but cyber was right about gasket as well, I was talking about cylinder head gasket (unfortunately) and not about valve cover gasket. I do hope that new gasket will resolve the matter.
I have to say that I'm not talking about large amount of leaking, but it was enough to make me do something about it. The new set of gaskets is oredered, I have to wait for 2 weeks or so for it to arrive, and I will post info about how engine dropping and opening (aaaargh !!!!) went and I hope I won't see anything that would provoke me an heart attack

.
regards

**The CyberPoet** · 04-13-2005, 04:49 AM

Originally posted by kantana

...I will post info about how engine dropping and opening (aaaargh !!!!) went and I hope I won't see anything that would provoke me an heart attack

.

While you are in the engine doing this, you may want to also take the time to remove any build-up of carbon (black) or sulfated ash (tan/brown/grey), and possibly also polish any rough edges on the exhaust ports and intake ports.

If the last owner really did let it run low on oil, you may also want to use this time to clean out some of the oil passages, including flushing the oil cooler with a chemical flush (gasoline if you do not have other types) and take a nylon bristle from a stiff brush to the oil jets that spray various parts (at least the ones you can get to).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

PS - PM me with the prices from your dealer for Suzuki part numbers 6868108F10 und 6869108F10 (not available in the USA). I need someone in Europe to get them for me...

**Yellow** · 04-13-2005, 12:46 PM

Originally posted by The CyberPoet

PM me with the prices from your dealer for Suzuki part numbers 6868108F10 und 6869108F10 (not available in the USA). I need someone in Europe to get them for me...

You're getting me interested here - what's that you are looking for? I remember you were talking a lot about ignition timing a while ago - could it be the IC or rotor or something?

**The CyberPoet** · 04-13-2005, 05:40 PM

Originally posted by Yellow

Originally posted by The CyberPoet

PM me with the prices from your dealer for Suzuki part numbers 6868108F10 und 6869108F10 (not available in the USA). I need someone in Europe to get them for me...

You're getting me interested here - what's that you are looking for? I remember you were talking a lot about ignition timing a while ago - could it be the IC or rotor or something?

No, it's the raised OEM GSXF emblems from the '98 GSX600F. Blacktog was supposed to get them for me, but he is stuck in the middle of moving and fixing up both the new and old place, so he's not available for the task. If you could get me a price from you dealer as well or instead, I'd be pleased

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

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