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Moly 60 Paste

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  • Moly 60 Paste

    Has anyone ever used or thought of using Moly 60 Paste for their drive chain? It is a excellent grease for any purpose. I see it as a good (but expensive) greaser for the "o" ring chains.
    1989 Suzuki Katana 750

  • #2
    Well , good o-ring chains don't really NEED lube , as I understand it , just cleaned off every so often to make sure the o-rings don't get damaged . The lube is INSIDE the o-rings . The oil/lube/whatever-you-use is mainly to clean it and keep surace rust at bay .
    I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



    Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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    • #3
      I clean the chain with kerosine and an acid brush then lube it with Castrol chain wax once a month. The lube that is sealed inside the chain rollers does nothing for the outside of the rollers and sprockets. You must clean and lubricate or you will have premature sprocket and chain wear. Regular lubrication with an o-ring/x-ring safe lubricant will also make the rings last longer.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by md86
        Well , good o-ring chains don't really NEED lube , as I understand it , just cleaned off every so often to make sure the o-rings don't get damaged . The lube is INSIDE the o-rings . The oil/lube/whatever-you-use is mainly to clean it and keep surace rust at bay .
        I think (IMHO) that this is incorrect.
        Here's the logic behind my thinking:

        (A) There is metal-to-metal contact at the roller plates against the sprockets. That interface should have oil on it to help damp the contact and sliding of the roller plate against the sprocket tooth.

        (B) The O-rings can always use a bit of lube to help keep them pliable and help retain the VOC's. Obviously, the cleaner is more critical in this part of the equation, as a harsh cleaner will strip the VOC's out of the rubber and let the rubber crack prematurely, but oil should help as well in preventing premature VOC evaporation.

        (C) If even a single o-ring fails, the oil in that link will be flung out, and there will be no lubrication for that link. The oil you add will help offset the failed lubrication, helping keep that single roller from binding (and thus dragging across the tooth in a grinding motion).

        You might also want to read the May '05 RIDER (magazine) article on chains, where various manufacturer's reps get their say in on the entire issue of chains, cleaning, etc. It reads fairly similar to parts of my chain wear and maintenance page, although they do a better job of examining replacement chain strategies (comparative strengths master link vs riveted vs endless chains) and sprocket hardening issues.

        Originally posted by 89katana750
        Has anyone ever used or thought of using Moly 60 Paste for their drive chain? It is a excellent grease for any purpose. I see it as a good (but expensive) greaser for the "o" ring chains.
        It would be quite expensive... but it would work in theory... I use a chain oil which contains moly and PFTE (teflon), and it hasn't damaged the O-rings in 10k miles, so I couldn't see how a Moly paste would possibly damage it.

        Cheers
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

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        • #5
          $17 CDN for the moly 60, which comes in a 3 oz container. It would be really expensive. The container would probably last you 10 clean/lube intervals. Im going to try it and see how it goes. I made the mistake last season by cleaning my chain with WD-40, being unaware of the ingredients.
          1989 Suzuki Katana 750

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