Stock jets and clip settings on needle??

[jdumont]

Hey all, continuing to have issues with my carbs (i think). I got the bike and it really wouldnt idle at all so I removed the carbs and cleaned them all out last week and reassembled sunday. The bike fired right up and I took it around the neighborhood (.5 mile). It stalled when I got it in the driveway and wouldnt run since. I pulled the plugs today and all 4 were caked with dry black carbon. Installed new plugs and bike fired up but idle was horrible. I think my carbs are out of factory spec. I just got the bike so I need to know what the jets should be and what groove the e-ring should be in for stock setup.....

Also, is it ok to run the bike with no air filter box on at all for troubleshooting purposes only? I did it this for 5-10 minutes this afternoon so I could watch the slides bouncing around.

Thanks in advance...
Josh

[jdumont]

I pulled the jets out of two of the carbs and they read 110 and 32.5. The 32.5 also had some odd symbol on it before the number. The clips for those needles were on the third groove down from the top also...

THanks in advance

[jdumont]

Oh yea I also have a Yoshi muffler on there too if that matters....

[reconstyle]

Re: Stock jets and clip settings on needle??

double post

[reconstyle]

Re: Stock jets and clip settings on needle??

Also, is it ok to run the bike with no air filter box on at all for troubleshooting purposes only? I did it this for 5-10 minutes this afternoon so I could watch the slides bouncing around.

HELL NO

Anything that is floating in the air near the carbs will get sucked into your intake port and possibly end up in the cylinder THAT IS BAD

When that slide goes up, and the butterfly valve is open, there is NOTHING in between the air outside your carbs and your intake port.

If you need to test slide action do it with the bike off, just sitck your finger in there, push it up, and let it come down, if the motion is smooth, then you are ok.

How many turns out are your a/f screws, and have you sync'd the carbs?

[arsenic]

yeah +1 on the sync, you need to do that.

[Newbie2it]

JD, Check your PM. As for running without the airbox.. Dont! Like Recon said, As for the synch, I got that covered too.

[jdumont]

Thanks guys, I knew running without the airbox prob wasnt too good.

I am really more concerned with the jet size and clip position. Is the needle supposed to seat completly in the emulsion tube when the carbs are out. I have a lot of gap between the tube and the needle when the slides are fully down. Im going to try moving the clip a little and get the needle to seat better.

[GregS]

I was under the impression that all the stock USA carbs had non adjustable needles. That means you have a jet kit. Also since early models had "twice pipes" if you have a single Yoshimura muffler then you either have a full system or a newer model header with slip on. It would be a good idea to get whatever info you could on these mods.
Either way you should start with resync carbs. Judging by what your saying your running very rich (black dry carbon caked on plugs). I assume you've checked for sources of flooding like float level and valve seating.

[jdumont]

Ok thanks for the advise. I wasnt aware US models had non adjustable needle valves. I am going to be redoing the float heights tonight. They are currently at 14mm so im going to move them to 16mm and try again. By valve seating do you mean engine valves or float valves? I looked at the small rubber float valves last night and all look good.
Newbie2it was kind enough to offer his services and take a look at my setup this weekend. Although I am mechanically gifted (lol) I have no experience with bikes and wouldnt be able to spot what you just mentioned about the pipes. Im sure you guys could take one look at things and have loads of info because of your experience. Then when I get experience I will be able to pass on my knowledge to other newbies.... and so goes the circle of knowledge.

[DonShannon]

Maybe some of my info will help you.

The 32.5 is the stock size pilot jet for your year.
112.5 is the stock jet size for your year (US model)
110 is stock in UK. And yeah, none of the stock needles had multiple grooves.

My bike runs rich on the main circuit with Mikuni 130s, but not enough to cause massive fouling.
However, if you have aftermarket jets, the size will be different (Dynojet 130s and Mikuni 130s are different animals)

It idles decent with the stock pilots, but with mixture screws FOUR turns out.

I'm running a Yoshi and K&N.

I think you need to clean the carbs again. I had to clean mine 3 times before I reached that magical point where I heard angels singing and bells ringing. (Oh yeah and the bike ran)

[jdumont]

So thats weird then... It would be odd for this to be a U.K. bike first of all. Second of all why would someone replace the jet needle with one with grooves and not the jets? Unless they were trying the cheap way out of correcting another issue perhaps?

[DonShannon]

My assumption is that you have a full jet kit.
Maybe a Dynojet 110 is substantially larger than a Mikuni.
Jet kits rarely (if ever) address the pilot jet, so that's probably stock.

So, my advice is clean the carbs again. Strip some copper wire and chase out the small passages. Blast 'em with carb cleaner and compressed air (Wear eye protection... no joke) Make sure all the little rubber what-nots are where they need to be.
Bench sync the carbs.. I didn't have to go far off the bench sync for full sync and it was completely rideable prior. Put the needles on the second groove down. Use new fuel filters, make sure all the vacuum ports are covered, as well as the airbox drain (Glue and a screw is what I used on mine initially) Set your mixture screws to about 3.5 turns out and see what it does.

You can't diagnose a rich/lean condition in the main circuit until you can run it under load in the main circuit.

I was in the same position you're in.. trying to get a bike that was modded by the OP to run again (mine didn't run AT ALL when I got it)

[GregS]

You said the pilot jets had a funny symbol ahead of the number so I assume the mains did not. This tells me that you probably have a DynoJet kit since they don't use Mikuni jets and as noted their sizing does not match Mikuni. I would leave the float level at 14 and recommend jetting down the main jet to get it right before changing anything else. A good "seat of the pants" tuning guide can be found on the FactoryPro website in the product support section.

[jdumont]

The only reason I thought maybe the floats should be adjusted is because it wont even idle correctly. The main jet shouldnt be doing anything at idle correct? Im thinking because of the needle position and the float height that gas is getting past the main jet and into the equation when it really should only be the pilot jet... am I wrong in thinking that?

Plus if I get down the main jet wont I have to change the needle jet also?
Im assuming the bike ran at one point with this setup as is...maybe I shouldnt assume.

Again, thanks for the help.... this is great.