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First off I want to say that this was not my Idea at all I just thought that it was a great Idea. The post was origionaly from kawiforumsand all I did was copy and paste it.
here is a link to the origional post on kawi forums
Items needed:
12 volt garage door opener
6 to 9 feet of wire: 16 - 18 gauge (2)
Wire Taps: 14-18 gauge - Blue (2)
Electrical Tape
Pull Ties (6)
Double Sided Tape (padded type) or velcro
Tools Needed:
Crimper or Pliers
Wire cutter / stripper
Phillips Screw Driver
Optional: Soldering Kit
Optional: Drill for running the wires through the remote door opener case
Time Required: 30 minutes
warning: opening your remote may void the manufacture warranty and can cause electrical shock. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to yourself, motorcycle or remote. This guide is for informational purposes only.
Fact lesson on how the remote garage door opener works:
When you press the garage door remote it acts like a switch connecting the remote with the power to send a signal to open the garage door.
We are going to reverse the process so that the "switch" is always on and the power is used (as a switch) to send the signal to open the garage door.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Remote with battery: Power source (battery) is always there, button is pressed to send the signal
Remote hard-wired to HI-beam: The button is by-passed with a wire that shorts the remote to always on "pressed" and the power (HI-Beam) is used to control when the signal gets sent. This is like taping the button down on the remote, and to operate the door, you would take the battery in and out to send the signal.
The Remote battery is replaced by hard-wiring (tapping) into the HI-Beam wire which is controlling when the signal is being sent.
NOTE: For those that like to run the HI-beam 24/7 you can choose to hook it up to the LO-beam wire instead of the HI-beam wire. When the HI-beam is on no juice is sent to the LO-beam, when the LO beam is on no juice is sent to the HI-beam, so either way will work. If you have DUAL HEADLIGHTS you will need to test your LO-Beam to check if it is a FULL-TIME LO. Flick the HI-Beam, if the LO does not switch to HI you cannot run this mod off your LO - it has to be installed on your HI.
The below picture shows you schematic on how it's connected, followed by details for installation on a Ninja 250. This can be applied to all motorcycles with a 12 volt battery. You just need to find the HI-beam (or LO-beam) and ground wires, the installation is the same.
How it works when connected to the HI-beam wire:
You approach the garage door, flick the HI-beam switch the door will open. If the HI-beam is already on you will need to flick it to LO then back to HI the door will open. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is opening the door will stop. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is stopped the door will close.
WARNING: Before you begin make sure your remote is 12 volts (your battery will tell you) If you have a remote that uses a 9 volt battery you cannot hard-wire the power - it WILL damage your 9 volt remote and make it useless.
For a 9 volt remote you have 2 options:
1. Get a 12 volt remote: try Carper Remote Replacements - make sure it is compatible with your door opener.
2. Regulate the 12 volt output for (s) your 9 volt remote. This how-to does not cover that.
Step 1: Shorting the remote (by-passing the button so it's always on "pressed")
There are two ways this can be done WITH SOLDERING or WITHOUT SOLDERING. Soldering is stronger but it can be done without it. If you do not plan to solder please read the whole how-to so you can follow, you will be told your steps through-out the guide.
Solder Option Only:
Open the remote
(warning: opening your remote may void the manufacture warranty and can cause electrical shock. This guide is for informational purposes only.)
Take out the circuit board and turn it over (leave the battery installed)
Now refer to the picture ABOVE. You'll see 4 points 2 of which are marked A and B. You will need to locate the 4 PINS (solder points) on your remote. It's pretty easy to find, where the button is you can turn it over and see the 4 points (hold it up to a light).
Now with a single wire or paperclip touch each end (of the wire or paperclip) to those points. (it's usually a diagonal connection but it may vary on different remotes) when you touch the two correct points the remote light will go on and the door will open, so listen for the door or watch it.
Once you located the two points, remember them or mark them
Now TAKE OUT the battery
Fit (measure) a piece of wire between those points and solder each end of wire to each point: you only need a small piece and do not expose too much wire at the ends: This will "short" the remote which is the same thing as the button being pressed. see picture below
Step 2: Getting Access to the Headlight Wires
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Pull out the headlight connection plug
You'll find that there's not a lot of wire to play with. So I clipped the PULL TIE that is holding the main harness to the frame (headlight bracket/fairing stay) to get a bit more to play with. (different bikes may vary)
this picture shows the clipped PULL TIE - It is directly below the SPEEDO
Step 3: Wire Prep
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Remove your seat and detach the red (+) battery connection
Now you will need to run the wire(s) that will connect the remote to the HI-beam wire through the bike. I chose to install the remote under the seat in the back near the rear tail-light housing. I just followed the main wire harness through the bike and attached pull-ties where access allowed.
My wire routing is as follows: Headlight Boot through the forks (attached to the main wire harness) under the tank (attached with a pull tie) through the left side of the frame (attached with a pull tie) to the back under the seat. It required that I take off the left side fairing (cover) (Phillips Screw Driver) and the seat. I did not need to take off anything else. But depending on where you choose to install the remote will determine what you need to take off and how much wire you will need.
About Wire:
I went to Home Depot and got 9 feet of 16 gauge wire for $3.20, while you are there pick up some wire taps $1.99 14-18 gauge.
Home Depot only had 16x4 (this means there are 4 [separate] wires (16 gauge) wrapped up in one) I like wrapped wires they are cleaner and easy to work with. I only needed 2 so I pulled out the GREEN and WHITE wires leaving the RED and BLACK (colors may vary) in the wrapping which will be used to run the wires through the bike.
But any wires will do, I would suggest 16 to 18 gauge.
Step 4: Connected the remote wires to the HI-Beam wires
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Now that you ran your wires through the bike it's time to TAP into HI-Beam wires. Now's a good time to decide if you are going to use the HI or LO Beam wire to power the remote. I chose the HI-Beam (red/black wire) but you can do it with the LO-Beam (red/yellow wire)
Note: this was done on a NINJA 250 - other bikes will vary in wire color and location - but the concept is the same.
MAKE SURE THE BATTERY FOR THE MOTORCYCLE IS NOT CONNECTED
Get the Headlight Connection Boot.
Peel away some of the tape wrapping the headlight boot wires to expose more wire.
Take the wire TAP and place the red/black (HI-Beam) wire into and through the tap.
Place the RED (or whatever color you are using for the Positive connection) into the same TAP just in the other slot.
CRIMP or with a pliers SQUEEZE the metal TAP part firmly down.
Close the TAP.
Do the same to the Ground Line (Black/Yellow)
TAPS are idiot proof, you have to be a moron to screw it up.
There are 2 slots in a standard TAP:
Slot 1 (no protective lip) the POWER wire (the wire you are tapping into for power) runs THROUGH the tap.
Slot 2 (protective lip) The line you are using to give power to the remote goes into the tap
You cannot mess it up look at the second picture below, you see the black/yellow (headlight ground) wire going through the TAP and the SOLID black (remote ground) wire connected into the same tap. There is a protective lip that does not allow it to run through.
pictures of the taps installed
Step 5: Wrapping the TAPs
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Wrap the TAPs and wires with electrical tape - wrap it good.
Plug in the headlight boot back into the headlight socket.
Step 6: Optional: Modifying the remote case
Both Solder and Non-Solder
You can choose to modify the remote case so that you can run the wires through it and keep the case or you can toss the case and just use the circuit board. I would modify the case, otherwise you'll need to find a way to protect and waterproof the board.
I drilled a hole in the case to allow the wires to go into the case. Each remote case is different but they can all accommodate this mod.
Step 7: Connection the remote wires to the remote power terminals
Both Solder and Non-Solder
SOLDER:
Cut your wire to length to where you want the remote installed (I got 9 feet for flexibility)
If you are keeping the remote case you will need to run the wire through the remote case before you solder. (see picture below)
Strip the wire tip and solder the positive wire (+) (in my case RED wire) to the positive terminal of the remote.
Strip the wire tip and solder the negative wire (-) (in my case BLACK wire) to the negative terminal of the remote.
I ran the wire in the remote and measured how much wire I need exposed for each terminal including the stripped portion of the wire from the wrapping to the terminals so it's an exact fit (see picture below). You don't want too much EXTRA wire in there as the case may not snap close without damaging the solder points.
NON-SOLDER
Cut your wire to length to where you want the remote installed (I got 9 feet for flexibility)
If you are keeping the remote case you will need to run the wire through the remote case before you attach the wire. (see picture below)
Strip a good length of the positive wire (+) (in my case RED wire) and wrap it around to the positive terminal of the remote and then TAPE it with electrical tape.
Strip a good length of the negative (-) wire (in my case BLACK wire) and wrap it around to the Negative terminal of the remote and then TAPE it with electrical tape.
I ran the wire in the remote and measured how much wire I need exposed from the wrapping so it's an exact fit. You don't want too much EXTRA wire in there as the case may not snap close.
NON-SOLDER ONLY You will need to tape your remote button down so that it's always pressed down. If you are using your case you can do this by tightly taping a marble, pencil eraser or any round object over the button so that it's forced down (on position), you can even use tissue paper. Just make sure the button is pressed down at all times. If you are not using the case find a way to force the button down (tightly taped)
case closed - wires installed in replace of the battery
Step 8: Secure the wires
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Connect the motorcycle battery, turn on your bike, switch on the HI-Beam. Your Garage door will open.
Now secure the wires with pull ties
Use the double-sided tape or velcro to secure the remote in your desired location of the bike.
wires attached with pull ties
wires attached to the side of the frame with pull ties
remote installed in the back under the seat
How it works when connected to the HI-beam wire:
You approach the garage door, flick the HI-beam switch the door will open. If the HI-beam is already on you will need to flick it to LO then back to HI the door will open. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is opening the door will stop. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is stopped the door will close.
Note: If the remote is connected to the HI-Beam and you approach your garage with the HI-Beam already on you will need to flick it LO then Back to HI to open the Garage.
All Garage Door Remotes only send out one signal when the button is pressed: try it at home.
Go out of range for your remote hit the button, hold it down (on) and walk in range of your door. It will not open. You will have to release the button and press it again to open the door. This is the same concept. Only you never have to worry about batteries ever again.
Reasons to do this mod:
Safer: As in my case I have to turn into my garage so now I don't have to take my hand off the bar.
No More: DAMN I FORGOT MY REMOTE or searching your pocket, jacket or bag
Anti-Theft: If you happen to leave your bike outside your house and have a remote somewhere on your bike anyone could gain access to your garage / house or steal your remote. Keep in mind your opener will only work when your bike headlight is on (which means the bike must be started)
IT's JUST PLAN COOL
here is a link to the origional post on kawi forums
Items needed:
12 volt garage door opener
6 to 9 feet of wire: 16 - 18 gauge (2)
Wire Taps: 14-18 gauge - Blue (2)
Electrical Tape
Pull Ties (6)
Double Sided Tape (padded type) or velcro
Tools Needed:
Crimper or Pliers
Wire cutter / stripper
Phillips Screw Driver
Optional: Soldering Kit
Optional: Drill for running the wires through the remote door opener case
Time Required: 30 minutes
warning: opening your remote may void the manufacture warranty and can cause electrical shock. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to yourself, motorcycle or remote. This guide is for informational purposes only.
Fact lesson on how the remote garage door opener works:
When you press the garage door remote it acts like a switch connecting the remote with the power to send a signal to open the garage door.
We are going to reverse the process so that the "switch" is always on and the power is used (as a switch) to send the signal to open the garage door.
FOR EXAMPLE:
Remote with battery: Power source (battery) is always there, button is pressed to send the signal
Remote hard-wired to HI-beam: The button is by-passed with a wire that shorts the remote to always on "pressed" and the power (HI-Beam) is used to control when the signal gets sent. This is like taping the button down on the remote, and to operate the door, you would take the battery in and out to send the signal.
The Remote battery is replaced by hard-wiring (tapping) into the HI-Beam wire which is controlling when the signal is being sent.
NOTE: For those that like to run the HI-beam 24/7 you can choose to hook it up to the LO-beam wire instead of the HI-beam wire. When the HI-beam is on no juice is sent to the LO-beam, when the LO beam is on no juice is sent to the HI-beam, so either way will work. If you have DUAL HEADLIGHTS you will need to test your LO-Beam to check if it is a FULL-TIME LO. Flick the HI-Beam, if the LO does not switch to HI you cannot run this mod off your LO - it has to be installed on your HI.
The below picture shows you schematic on how it's connected, followed by details for installation on a Ninja 250. This can be applied to all motorcycles with a 12 volt battery. You just need to find the HI-beam (or LO-beam) and ground wires, the installation is the same.
How it works when connected to the HI-beam wire:
You approach the garage door, flick the HI-beam switch the door will open. If the HI-beam is already on you will need to flick it to LO then back to HI the door will open. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is opening the door will stop. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is stopped the door will close.
WARNING: Before you begin make sure your remote is 12 volts (your battery will tell you) If you have a remote that uses a 9 volt battery you cannot hard-wire the power - it WILL damage your 9 volt remote and make it useless.
For a 9 volt remote you have 2 options:
1. Get a 12 volt remote: try Carper Remote Replacements - make sure it is compatible with your door opener.
2. Regulate the 12 volt output for (s) your 9 volt remote. This how-to does not cover that.
Step 1: Shorting the remote (by-passing the button so it's always on "pressed")
There are two ways this can be done WITH SOLDERING or WITHOUT SOLDERING. Soldering is stronger but it can be done without it. If you do not plan to solder please read the whole how-to so you can follow, you will be told your steps through-out the guide.
Solder Option Only:
Open the remote
(warning: opening your remote may void the manufacture warranty and can cause electrical shock. This guide is for informational purposes only.)
Take out the circuit board and turn it over (leave the battery installed)
Now refer to the picture ABOVE. You'll see 4 points 2 of which are marked A and B. You will need to locate the 4 PINS (solder points) on your remote. It's pretty easy to find, where the button is you can turn it over and see the 4 points (hold it up to a light).
Now with a single wire or paperclip touch each end (of the wire or paperclip) to those points. (it's usually a diagonal connection but it may vary on different remotes) when you touch the two correct points the remote light will go on and the door will open, so listen for the door or watch it.
Once you located the two points, remember them or mark them
Now TAKE OUT the battery
Fit (measure) a piece of wire between those points and solder each end of wire to each point: you only need a small piece and do not expose too much wire at the ends: This will "short" the remote which is the same thing as the button being pressed. see picture below
Step 2: Getting Access to the Headlight Wires
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Pull out the headlight connection plug
You'll find that there's not a lot of wire to play with. So I clipped the PULL TIE that is holding the main harness to the frame (headlight bracket/fairing stay) to get a bit more to play with. (different bikes may vary)
this picture shows the clipped PULL TIE - It is directly below the SPEEDO
Step 3: Wire Prep
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Remove your seat and detach the red (+) battery connection
Now you will need to run the wire(s) that will connect the remote to the HI-beam wire through the bike. I chose to install the remote under the seat in the back near the rear tail-light housing. I just followed the main wire harness through the bike and attached pull-ties where access allowed.
My wire routing is as follows: Headlight Boot through the forks (attached to the main wire harness) under the tank (attached with a pull tie) through the left side of the frame (attached with a pull tie) to the back under the seat. It required that I take off the left side fairing (cover) (Phillips Screw Driver) and the seat. I did not need to take off anything else. But depending on where you choose to install the remote will determine what you need to take off and how much wire you will need.
About Wire:
I went to Home Depot and got 9 feet of 16 gauge wire for $3.20, while you are there pick up some wire taps $1.99 14-18 gauge.
Home Depot only had 16x4 (this means there are 4 [separate] wires (16 gauge) wrapped up in one) I like wrapped wires they are cleaner and easy to work with. I only needed 2 so I pulled out the GREEN and WHITE wires leaving the RED and BLACK (colors may vary) in the wrapping which will be used to run the wires through the bike.
But any wires will do, I would suggest 16 to 18 gauge.
Step 4: Connected the remote wires to the HI-Beam wires
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Now that you ran your wires through the bike it's time to TAP into HI-Beam wires. Now's a good time to decide if you are going to use the HI or LO Beam wire to power the remote. I chose the HI-Beam (red/black wire) but you can do it with the LO-Beam (red/yellow wire)
Note: this was done on a NINJA 250 - other bikes will vary in wire color and location - but the concept is the same.
MAKE SURE THE BATTERY FOR THE MOTORCYCLE IS NOT CONNECTED
Get the Headlight Connection Boot.
Peel away some of the tape wrapping the headlight boot wires to expose more wire.
Take the wire TAP and place the red/black (HI-Beam) wire into and through the tap.
Place the RED (or whatever color you are using for the Positive connection) into the same TAP just in the other slot.
CRIMP or with a pliers SQUEEZE the metal TAP part firmly down.
Close the TAP.
Do the same to the Ground Line (Black/Yellow)
TAPS are idiot proof, you have to be a moron to screw it up.
There are 2 slots in a standard TAP:
Slot 1 (no protective lip) the POWER wire (the wire you are tapping into for power) runs THROUGH the tap.
Slot 2 (protective lip) The line you are using to give power to the remote goes into the tap
You cannot mess it up look at the second picture below, you see the black/yellow (headlight ground) wire going through the TAP and the SOLID black (remote ground) wire connected into the same tap. There is a protective lip that does not allow it to run through.
pictures of the taps installed
Step 5: Wrapping the TAPs
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Wrap the TAPs and wires with electrical tape - wrap it good.
Plug in the headlight boot back into the headlight socket.
Step 6: Optional: Modifying the remote case
Both Solder and Non-Solder
You can choose to modify the remote case so that you can run the wires through it and keep the case or you can toss the case and just use the circuit board. I would modify the case, otherwise you'll need to find a way to protect and waterproof the board.
I drilled a hole in the case to allow the wires to go into the case. Each remote case is different but they can all accommodate this mod.
Step 7: Connection the remote wires to the remote power terminals
Both Solder and Non-Solder
SOLDER:
Cut your wire to length to where you want the remote installed (I got 9 feet for flexibility)
If you are keeping the remote case you will need to run the wire through the remote case before you solder. (see picture below)
Strip the wire tip and solder the positive wire (+) (in my case RED wire) to the positive terminal of the remote.
Strip the wire tip and solder the negative wire (-) (in my case BLACK wire) to the negative terminal of the remote.
I ran the wire in the remote and measured how much wire I need exposed for each terminal including the stripped portion of the wire from the wrapping to the terminals so it's an exact fit (see picture below). You don't want too much EXTRA wire in there as the case may not snap close without damaging the solder points.
NON-SOLDER
Cut your wire to length to where you want the remote installed (I got 9 feet for flexibility)
If you are keeping the remote case you will need to run the wire through the remote case before you attach the wire. (see picture below)
Strip a good length of the positive wire (+) (in my case RED wire) and wrap it around to the positive terminal of the remote and then TAPE it with electrical tape.
Strip a good length of the negative (-) wire (in my case BLACK wire) and wrap it around to the Negative terminal of the remote and then TAPE it with electrical tape.
I ran the wire in the remote and measured how much wire I need exposed from the wrapping so it's an exact fit. You don't want too much EXTRA wire in there as the case may not snap close.
NON-SOLDER ONLY You will need to tape your remote button down so that it's always pressed down. If you are using your case you can do this by tightly taping a marble, pencil eraser or any round object over the button so that it's forced down (on position), you can even use tissue paper. Just make sure the button is pressed down at all times. If you are not using the case find a way to force the button down (tightly taped)
case closed - wires installed in replace of the battery
Step 8: Secure the wires
Both Solder and Non-Solder
Connect the motorcycle battery, turn on your bike, switch on the HI-Beam. Your Garage door will open.
Now secure the wires with pull ties
Use the double-sided tape or velcro to secure the remote in your desired location of the bike.
wires attached with pull ties
wires attached to the side of the frame with pull ties
remote installed in the back under the seat
How it works when connected to the HI-beam wire:
You approach the garage door, flick the HI-beam switch the door will open. If the HI-beam is already on you will need to flick it to LO then back to HI the door will open. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is opening the door will stop. If you flick it back to LO then to HI while the door is stopped the door will close.
Note: If the remote is connected to the HI-Beam and you approach your garage with the HI-Beam already on you will need to flick it LO then Back to HI to open the Garage.
All Garage Door Remotes only send out one signal when the button is pressed: try it at home.
Go out of range for your remote hit the button, hold it down (on) and walk in range of your door. It will not open. You will have to release the button and press it again to open the door. This is the same concept. Only you never have to worry about batteries ever again.
Reasons to do this mod:
Safer: As in my case I have to turn into my garage so now I don't have to take my hand off the bar.
No More: DAMN I FORGOT MY REMOTE or searching your pocket, jacket or bag
Anti-Theft: If you happen to leave your bike outside your house and have a remote somewhere on your bike anyone could gain access to your garage / house or steal your remote. Keep in mind your opener will only work when your bike headlight is on (which means the bike must be started)
IT's JUST PLAN COOL
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