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There was a similar post about this but I got started before suzukiwookie posted his…
I will purchase a “new tank” as this is best, but in the mean time I did this, I’m posting the whole story
to relate some of the pitfalls as well. I think any epoxy system POR or Kreem will apply
Plus as I was writing it it seemed pretty funny...
OK
So the other day I was sanding the tank to prep it for paint.
I have these fantastic sanding "sponges" that I have used for years (5 honestly!).
They have a course grit (about 120) on one side and fine on the other.
The edges are angled so they get into tight spots and the flexible nature allows you to sand contours really well.
Plus as they are a synthetic you can wash them (or wet sand) and they last, well at least 5 years.
Anyway, while sanding the back part of the tank (where it meets the seat) gas started to seep out.
Not good..
Honestly I was just sanding..
This is where the weld seam is... Guess it has rusted through.
I tipped the tank forward as far as I could and let it sit. The seeping stopped.
I took a trip to AutoZone to get a patch.
Though I was disappointed in the selection I was assured by the 15 year old "on site expert"
it worked. This patch kit consists of a tube of "stuff" that looks like a candy of some kind.
(But don't eat it!!!) A white creamy middle wrapped in a dark chocolate coating. Tempting!!
I sliced off a small piece and kneaded it until the white and dark mixed...
Don't worry; once you smell it the temptation to take a bite goes away... Whew.
I cleaned the seam with a pick and sanded the area with very course sand paper.
I took my ball of toffee… I mean patching and bit off a piece about the size of a blueberry.
A large one, like between a small Wild Mustang grape and a large non-organic pea, about like that..
No not that big... Right like that... I forced the putty into the seam and molded the excess to the tank.
I let the tank sit tilted over night.
I replaced the tank. After returning a few hours later I noticed the tank was wet at the edge of the patch.
I guess the gas wept out and under the patch preventing adhesion.
Tricky gasoline... It can go uphill you know…
If the Kat didn't love it so much I’d have cursed it forever right then and there.
E-Bay has a few tanks but I don’t have the budget for a "buy it now" or a soon ending auction ($60+).
Plus it's riding weather... I want a quick fix...
I call my buddy Thad, Thad the Inhaler...
Master of the quick fix, my oldest and dearest friend, the only one who gets all my jokes, the Man...
Me: "Dino!!" ( I come from a mighty race of men endowed with many nicknames.. We were known as the Grange Rats and we worked on mythical and powerful vehicles all other considered ugly or useless.. Boat Tail Rivieras, International Scouts, Caddie Eldos, Toyota Land Cruisers, TR7s.)
Thad: "What's up Pucky Cagiva?” (Long story..)
Me: “I need to fix my gas tank. Fast... What can I buy??”
Well we talked about new tanks, wending, rivets and what not, (I was driving to a Pep Boys at the time)
Thad: “There is this stuff that makes a shell inside the tank..."
Me: "Magic Shell?? That's for ice cream"
Thad: No, no an epoxy I’ve heard of that you pour into the tank...”
Me: “POR-15 or Kreem, with a 'K'"
Thad: “yeah sure whatever.. That’s what you need”
Me: “Damn, that’s a long process”
Thad: “Well anything else is just gonna leak or make things worse...”
Me (changing lanes to go to the Stealership) “You’re right...” (He usually is)
A tank purchase is in my future, but I want to ride. So $31 later I have a Kreem kit. (POR-15 not available)
So I first want to remove the “patch” I made with the gas tank putty.
Stuff is hard as a rock and stuck to the metal very well.
A razor blade isn't working..
The patch probably would have worked except for the gas that wept out of the hole and prevented full seal.
Putty proves so hard to remove I attack it with a rasp and sand it smooth.
Note to self, use remaining putty as metal body filler, it sticks great and sands smooth as baby butt.
But my tank is flawless..
The Kreem kit has three parts:
An acid concentrate to etch the metal.
A MEK mix for dispelling the H2O.
An epoxy to actually coat the tank.
So First step is to clean the gas tank..
I remove the fuel cock, the screws holding it are about rusted through..
I remove the sender unit. It works really well, I have to switch to RES right when it hits the red line on the gauge.
So I take care when removing it.. The housing covering the wiper and resistor is rusted pretty badly as well as part of the flange.
I make plates to cover the fuel cock and sender holes. An aluminum plate for the sender (using the stock gasket) and a wood plate with
rubber sheeting for the fuel.
I take it to the curb..
I mix up some hot water and dish soap and fill the tank, as suggested I add some hardware (to aid in the scrubbing)
So I toss in some 1/4 -20 X 2 ½” stainless steel screws.. 10 I counted them, better get all of them out right?
Slosh this about.. let it sit, slosh it about. Ok now rinse.. I removed the cap I made covering the fuel cock and
let it drain. Stuck the hose in the filler neck and let it run.. Came back and sloshed it around, I noticed a few of the screws fell out,
Gee I didn’t think they would have fit out the fuel cock hole.. sloshed it around. try to work the screws out.. Damn baffles.
Ok count the screws. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 .. 8? Shake the tank rattle rattle.. OK shake out a screw.. shake the tank..
No rattle.. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 .. 9 .. ooops Run more water in.. shake the tank.. Check again. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9..
maybe one washed out? Look through debris at curb.. hmmmm shake the tank, bang it, hold it and slap it in all directions..
Not a sausage.. Oh well. Maybe there were only 9.. I am a geezer, the memory is the first to go. Proceed with work. Tank looks pretty rusty. Replace caps, mix up Phosphoric acid, shake tank.
Let it sit with tank tipped to get area that was leaking submerged. Let sit for 4 hours, agitate every hour or so.
Take remaining tiny bit of acid and brush sender unit with Q-tip.
Tip tank to submerge other seam. Let sit 3 hours. Time for bed, let tank sit level. Next day. Agitate tank.
Go to work. Come home at lunch time. Set 5 gal bucket by curb, set tank on bucket, carefully remove fuel cock cover..
Get splashed by acid anyway. Notice the Allen key I used to remove the plate screws is changing colors.. look at hands..
Tank is balanced well so while it is draining I run to wash hands.
I “borrowed” several pairs of disposable acid resistant (elbow length) gloves from work.. No I guess I wasn’t wearing them was I??
Return just as tank finished draining, loses balance and falls off bucket, two nice little dings in “flawless” tank..
Sigh..
Grumble.
I guess I will end up using the rest of the tank patch as body putty.
Take tank into back yard, make new fuel cock cover (old on fell into acid, naturally)
fill with MEK from kit (~10 oz.) slosh around to displace H2O. Notice MEK is very rust colored. eeeek.
Acid was 100% clear. Shake to get in all nooks, sloshing stops? look inside tank, all MEK is gone. evaped.
Shake tank anyway to get any drops out, hear rattle.. Crap. number 10.. Get long hemostat to remove errant screw.
I know it won’t clog my jets, but you know its gonna rattle forever if I leave it there.
Pour in Acetone to remove any trace H2O and rust.. Pour out before it evaporates.
OK ready to “Kreem” I guess..
Pour in epoxy, roll tank to coat, taking care to make sure seams get coated.
Wait 8-10 minutes (as per instructions)
Inspect sender while waiting. Acid has eaten all light rust and turned heavy rust into black something.
(stable FeO3?? the instructions say it “neutralizes” rust..)
Dip brush into epoxy bottle (a little always clings) and coat sender unit.
Roll tank again. Very disappointed with amount of epoxy.. concentrate on trying to get seams coated.
Go back to work.
Return and look at tank. Epoxy has made a nice surface. Coating however is not complete.
Use remaining in bottle to touch up area around fuel cock hole.
Tape up and paint with black epoxy: Fuel cock and vented sender cover (this is a California tank I have vent lines everywhere)
Also paint underside of tank with Rustolium..
Hope to assemble (using all stainless fasteners) and test tonight..
Cure time is 24 hours but other things have kept me from the job..
Wish me luck..
NOTES:
Kreem is an old product; I feel secure in its quality however I suggest this;
Don’t buy the kit if you are coating a Katana tank (or simiar).
If possible purchase acid concentrate separately. (I know the epoxy is available separately)
Purchase 2 bottles (or a larger bottle) of epoxy.
Purchase a large can of Acetone or MEK (Kreem suggests either if not using the kit)
The amount of epoxy was probably enough to coat seams (center seam and bottom edge seam) but not enough to completely coat the tank.
The amount of MEK was not enough to flush the rust, which seems to wash out with the MEK/Acetone instead of the acid.
Both MEK and Acetone are available by the gallon at Home Depot. DO NOT WASH DOWN SINK OR STORM DRAIN!!
Please pour into appropriate container and send to HAZMAT collection (Most cities have one)..
Use both bottles (or large bottle) of epoxy at the same time. It seems to me if you are using 3 gals or so of acid to clean the tank you want to coat the whole tank. IMO you should be finished coating the whole tank and be able to pour out some remaining epoxy.
ANOTHER NOTE:
I noticed that the aluminum plate I used to cover the sender hole was “anodized” by the acid. I’ll be storing the
acid for later use in the “home anodizing” idea Cory posted.
I will purchase a “new tank” as this is best, but in the mean time I did this, I’m posting the whole story
to relate some of the pitfalls as well. I think any epoxy system POR or Kreem will apply
Plus as I was writing it it seemed pretty funny...
OK
So the other day I was sanding the tank to prep it for paint.
I have these fantastic sanding "sponges" that I have used for years (5 honestly!).
They have a course grit (about 120) on one side and fine on the other.
The edges are angled so they get into tight spots and the flexible nature allows you to sand contours really well.
Plus as they are a synthetic you can wash them (or wet sand) and they last, well at least 5 years.
Anyway, while sanding the back part of the tank (where it meets the seat) gas started to seep out.
Not good..
Honestly I was just sanding..
This is where the weld seam is... Guess it has rusted through.
I tipped the tank forward as far as I could and let it sit. The seeping stopped.
I took a trip to AutoZone to get a patch.
Though I was disappointed in the selection I was assured by the 15 year old "on site expert"
it worked. This patch kit consists of a tube of "stuff" that looks like a candy of some kind.
(But don't eat it!!!) A white creamy middle wrapped in a dark chocolate coating. Tempting!!
I sliced off a small piece and kneaded it until the white and dark mixed...
Don't worry; once you smell it the temptation to take a bite goes away... Whew.
I cleaned the seam with a pick and sanded the area with very course sand paper.
I took my ball of toffee… I mean patching and bit off a piece about the size of a blueberry.
A large one, like between a small Wild Mustang grape and a large non-organic pea, about like that..
No not that big... Right like that... I forced the putty into the seam and molded the excess to the tank.
I let the tank sit tilted over night.
I replaced the tank. After returning a few hours later I noticed the tank was wet at the edge of the patch.
I guess the gas wept out and under the patch preventing adhesion.
Tricky gasoline... It can go uphill you know…
If the Kat didn't love it so much I’d have cursed it forever right then and there.
E-Bay has a few tanks but I don’t have the budget for a "buy it now" or a soon ending auction ($60+).
Plus it's riding weather... I want a quick fix...
I call my buddy Thad, Thad the Inhaler...
Master of the quick fix, my oldest and dearest friend, the only one who gets all my jokes, the Man...
Me: "Dino!!" ( I come from a mighty race of men endowed with many nicknames.. We were known as the Grange Rats and we worked on mythical and powerful vehicles all other considered ugly or useless.. Boat Tail Rivieras, International Scouts, Caddie Eldos, Toyota Land Cruisers, TR7s.)
Thad: "What's up Pucky Cagiva?” (Long story..)
Me: “I need to fix my gas tank. Fast... What can I buy??”
Well we talked about new tanks, wending, rivets and what not, (I was driving to a Pep Boys at the time)
Thad: “There is this stuff that makes a shell inside the tank..."
Me: "Magic Shell?? That's for ice cream"
Thad: No, no an epoxy I’ve heard of that you pour into the tank...”
Me: “POR-15 or Kreem, with a 'K'"
Thad: “yeah sure whatever.. That’s what you need”
Me: “Damn, that’s a long process”
Thad: “Well anything else is just gonna leak or make things worse...”
Me (changing lanes to go to the Stealership) “You’re right...” (He usually is)
A tank purchase is in my future, but I want to ride. So $31 later I have a Kreem kit. (POR-15 not available)
So I first want to remove the “patch” I made with the gas tank putty.
Stuff is hard as a rock and stuck to the metal very well.
A razor blade isn't working..
The patch probably would have worked except for the gas that wept out of the hole and prevented full seal.
Putty proves so hard to remove I attack it with a rasp and sand it smooth.
Note to self, use remaining putty as metal body filler, it sticks great and sands smooth as baby butt.
But my tank is flawless..
The Kreem kit has three parts:
An acid concentrate to etch the metal.
A MEK mix for dispelling the H2O.
An epoxy to actually coat the tank.
So First step is to clean the gas tank..
I remove the fuel cock, the screws holding it are about rusted through..
I remove the sender unit. It works really well, I have to switch to RES right when it hits the red line on the gauge.
So I take care when removing it.. The housing covering the wiper and resistor is rusted pretty badly as well as part of the flange.
I make plates to cover the fuel cock and sender holes. An aluminum plate for the sender (using the stock gasket) and a wood plate with
rubber sheeting for the fuel.
I take it to the curb..
I mix up some hot water and dish soap and fill the tank, as suggested I add some hardware (to aid in the scrubbing)
So I toss in some 1/4 -20 X 2 ½” stainless steel screws.. 10 I counted them, better get all of them out right?
Slosh this about.. let it sit, slosh it about. Ok now rinse.. I removed the cap I made covering the fuel cock and
let it drain. Stuck the hose in the filler neck and let it run.. Came back and sloshed it around, I noticed a few of the screws fell out,
Gee I didn’t think they would have fit out the fuel cock hole.. sloshed it around. try to work the screws out.. Damn baffles.
Ok count the screws. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 .. 8? Shake the tank rattle rattle.. OK shake out a screw.. shake the tank..
No rattle.. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 .. 9 .. ooops Run more water in.. shake the tank.. Check again. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9..
maybe one washed out? Look through debris at curb.. hmmmm shake the tank, bang it, hold it and slap it in all directions..
Not a sausage.. Oh well. Maybe there were only 9.. I am a geezer, the memory is the first to go. Proceed with work. Tank looks pretty rusty. Replace caps, mix up Phosphoric acid, shake tank.
Let it sit with tank tipped to get area that was leaking submerged. Let sit for 4 hours, agitate every hour or so.
Take remaining tiny bit of acid and brush sender unit with Q-tip.
Tip tank to submerge other seam. Let sit 3 hours. Time for bed, let tank sit level. Next day. Agitate tank.
Go to work. Come home at lunch time. Set 5 gal bucket by curb, set tank on bucket, carefully remove fuel cock cover..
Get splashed by acid anyway. Notice the Allen key I used to remove the plate screws is changing colors.. look at hands..
Tank is balanced well so while it is draining I run to wash hands.
I “borrowed” several pairs of disposable acid resistant (elbow length) gloves from work.. No I guess I wasn’t wearing them was I??
Return just as tank finished draining, loses balance and falls off bucket, two nice little dings in “flawless” tank..
Sigh..
Grumble.
I guess I will end up using the rest of the tank patch as body putty.
Take tank into back yard, make new fuel cock cover (old on fell into acid, naturally)
fill with MEK from kit (~10 oz.) slosh around to displace H2O. Notice MEK is very rust colored. eeeek.
Acid was 100% clear. Shake to get in all nooks, sloshing stops? look inside tank, all MEK is gone. evaped.
Shake tank anyway to get any drops out, hear rattle.. Crap. number 10.. Get long hemostat to remove errant screw.
I know it won’t clog my jets, but you know its gonna rattle forever if I leave it there.
Pour in Acetone to remove any trace H2O and rust.. Pour out before it evaporates.
OK ready to “Kreem” I guess..
Pour in epoxy, roll tank to coat, taking care to make sure seams get coated.
Wait 8-10 minutes (as per instructions)
Inspect sender while waiting. Acid has eaten all light rust and turned heavy rust into black something.
(stable FeO3?? the instructions say it “neutralizes” rust..)
Dip brush into epoxy bottle (a little always clings) and coat sender unit.
Roll tank again. Very disappointed with amount of epoxy.. concentrate on trying to get seams coated.
Go back to work.
Return and look at tank. Epoxy has made a nice surface. Coating however is not complete.
Use remaining in bottle to touch up area around fuel cock hole.
Tape up and paint with black epoxy: Fuel cock and vented sender cover (this is a California tank I have vent lines everywhere)
Also paint underside of tank with Rustolium..
Hope to assemble (using all stainless fasteners) and test tonight..
Cure time is 24 hours but other things have kept me from the job..
Wish me luck..
NOTES:
Kreem is an old product; I feel secure in its quality however I suggest this;
Don’t buy the kit if you are coating a Katana tank (or simiar).
If possible purchase acid concentrate separately. (I know the epoxy is available separately)
Purchase 2 bottles (or a larger bottle) of epoxy.
Purchase a large can of Acetone or MEK (Kreem suggests either if not using the kit)
The amount of epoxy was probably enough to coat seams (center seam and bottom edge seam) but not enough to completely coat the tank.
The amount of MEK was not enough to flush the rust, which seems to wash out with the MEK/Acetone instead of the acid.
Both MEK and Acetone are available by the gallon at Home Depot. DO NOT WASH DOWN SINK OR STORM DRAIN!!
Please pour into appropriate container and send to HAZMAT collection (Most cities have one)..
Use both bottles (or large bottle) of epoxy at the same time. It seems to me if you are using 3 gals or so of acid to clean the tank you want to coat the whole tank. IMO you should be finished coating the whole tank and be able to pour out some remaining epoxy.
ANOTHER NOTE:
I noticed that the aluminum plate I used to cover the sender hole was “anodized” by the acid. I’ll be storing the
acid for later use in the “home anodizing” idea Cory posted.
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