[katana91]

got it on the road today

well everyone i got it on the road today after checking the cables and it was fine till it got warmed up, then it wanted to idel at 5k rpm.
the throttle is closed all the way the choke is off and the idel adjustment screw is all the way down.
so know im not sure what it is, i was thinking that mayby the bowls or needles are getting stuck in the carbs or it may be something else, thanks for any help that you may have

[katana91]

Well ive tried looking for a leak and i cant seem to find one anywere
it still wants to idel at 6500rpm once it gets warm and i cant figure out why. The throttle is closed the idel is down as far as it will go, and the choke cable is all the way out. Somebody please help i cant get this figured out.
thanks

[ThAzKat]

Well ive tried looking for a leak and i cant seem to find one anywere
it still wants to idel at 6500rpm once it gets warm and i cant figure out why. The throttle is closed the idel is down as far as it will go, and the choke cable is all the way out. Somebody please help i cant get this figured out.
thanks

Do the carb rebuild, could be a stuck float!!!

[katana91]

well thanks for the help i took the carbs apart and cleaned them and put a smaller main jet in and it helped a little bit then i put everything back toghether and checked the throttle cable.
i keep it off and tried it and it still went up to 5k then i reconnected it and it stayed were it was supposed to at 1800rpm so i checked the roating of the cable and found out that when i moved it a certain way it would jump back up, so im just going to pick up i new one since it hasnt been changed yet and that should be the last thing i need to do to get it going good other then working on the jetting.
thanks for everyones help and interest, i will keep you all updated on how it goes with riding,
thanks again
Josh

[katana91]

well everthing is back toghether and i got it out for 100 miles today and everthing ran great and it never got hot.

[Yellow]

Are you going to take it to a dyno? And was it hard to jet it right?

[The CyberPoet]

here are someupdated pictures of the proccess including the new kit
(reference to old pistons
http://www.katriders.com/forums/file...t_im001085.jpg

See that light grey/tan stuff on the top of the pistons? That's not carbon, it's sulfated ash build-up from using motor oils high in sulfated ash content.

PS - good upgrade! Make sure you use 91 or 93 octane fuel (whatever Wiseco recommends), as the kit raises the compression ratio on the engine substancially and 87 octane will cause knocking...

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[katana91]

Cyber
so would i be safe using the suzuki oil so that doesnt happen again



Yellow
Yea im going to once i get it jetted right b/c i still dont have it quite right yet, just good enough to ride, still need to work on the 1/2 throttle part of the jetting

[The CyberPoet]

Cyber
so would i be safe using the suzuki oil so that doesnt happen again

Depends. I've seen two types of oil with Suzuki labels, and the most recent one I saw was not rated for the Kats (neither JASO-MA -- which is preferable, but not mandatory, and which will keep that from happening -- nor API SH or lower). Malloc was about to use some Suzuki-labeled 10w40 when I spotted on the label that it was API SJ rated, which should never be used in a Katana engine (never use API SJ or SL rated oils). It is possible that some of their newest water-cooled bikes can use an SJ or SL rated oil, but for Suzuki's current batch of oil-air cooled bikes, SJ and SL have too low a ZDDP package, as well as other issues that make them far less than ideal (and not compatible with Suzuki's own printed requirements for the Kats).

Just look for any oil with a JASO-MA rating in the right weight (10w40 for most weather; 20w50 if it's particularly hot or you run very long distances). I like Castrol GPS, but there are a number of others on the market that qualify with the ideal ratings (JASO-MA, API SF/SG), including Castrol ACT/Evo, Valvoline ATV 10w40, RoyalPurple CycleMax, Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40, Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, etc.

KNOW THIS:
API specs do not limit sulfated ash content in any class. JASO-MA requires sulfated ash content to be below 1.2% by weight.

For more oil info, see:
CyberPoet's "How to understand and choose motorcycle motor oils" at motorcycleanchor.com

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[katana91]

Well does anyone want 4 Qt of suzuki oil (API SJ) Since thats what i have and cyber said that you shouldnt use it in kat so if someone has something else PM me

[katana91]

What does it do if i use the API SJ oil in my kat b/c thats what i have used for the past 150 miles

Is that why i had the ash on my old pistons, i used it before the rebuild for about 10000 miles with regular oil changes

[The CyberPoet]

Well does anyone want 4 Qt of suzuki oil (API SJ) Since thats what i have and cyber said that you shouldnt use it in kat so if someone has something else PM me

Most modern CARS can use API SJ oils. If you still have sealed bottles, return the sealed oil to the dealership or location you bought it from.

What does it do if i use the API SJ oil in my kat b/c thats what i have used for the past 150 miles

Accelerates metal wear in low-oil situations, such as at time of start-up, including both in the transmission and at the ring/cylinder wall interface. The lower ZDDP package doesn't provide as many anti-friction/anti-wear additives as the properly rated oil. 150 miles shouldn't have done any serious damages, but I wouldn't recommend running SJ all the way out to the standard change interval by any means.

Is that why i had the ash on my old pistons, i used it before the rebuild for about 10000 miles with regular oil changes

Not specifically. You had the sulfated ash because the oil that was being used was high in sulfated ash content (meaning it was extracted somewhere in the America's and not desulfated as heavily as desirable) AND you didn't use any chemical products to reduce such build-up (such as fuels high in detergents, or fuel system cleaners which include coverage for removing sulfated ash build-up). Again, use of JASO-MA rated motor oils will keep sulfated ash build-up at a minimum because the spec for JASO-MA rated motor oils is a max sulfated ash content of 1.2% by weight. Use of a fuel system cleaner such as Chevron Techron will also help remove existing sulfated ash build-up.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[katana91]

Thanks alot your always a good help

[gottagofaster]

Dayum thats some sadd news Ive been using KawaChem 20-50 API SJ from the very get go,changing every 1200 miles ...Should I be worried?Glad I might be trading

[The CyberPoet]

Dayum thats some sadd news Ive been using KawaChem 20-50 API SJ from the very get go,changing every 1200 miles ...Should I be worried?Glad I might be trading

Never worry about the past; just make it right in the future. And read the owner's manual closely next time

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet