Cleaning a dirty engine.

[kirk]

I asked this on the old kp site, but forgot to save it before it went down way back, so I appoligize for the repost.

I got an extra engine with my project bike that had been sitting around without any covers or carbs or headers on it. So basically all the openings were left exposed. What steps should be taken to clean it up a bit and make sure I don't fudge up the engine whenever I try to get it running?

[ThAzKat]

Because of the vital openings were left open it will take a comlete rebuild to do a thorough job and not occur problems later and have to rebuild it or take to a scrap yard. mo

[kirk]

Because of the vital openings were left open it will take a comlete rebuild to do a thorough job and not occur problems later and have to rebuild it or take to a scrap yard. mo

I believe the valves are closed so I don't think anything go in through the carb openings. Cyberpoet gave me a really good rundown on a process in which he said to run different oils through the engine. I was hoping he would repost that.

[ThAzKat]

I have cleaned an engine out by using Automatic Transmission fluid, let it soak, IMHO you are better of taking it apart and checking rings etc etc. Cyber is right there are ways to clean it out but you can also defeat your whole perpose too. just some thought to ponder on. I myself have tried the cleaning before and it worked twice out of 10 times.

[kirk]

Alright.. well it's not that I'm opposed to taking it apart and making sure it's clean. But I've never gone that far into an engine before so I'm not sure I would know what to do. Any suggestions on where to look or how to get started.. or how to do this even?

Thanks!

[ThAzKat]

If the valves are closed it is a good chance you are at top dead center so the cylinder head is all good. most of the work will be replacing gaskets and seals. take the cylinder head off put some trans fluid in the cylinders and let soak for about a day. and then see if the engine will move. then we will go from there. feel free to PM me with questions.

[The CyberPoet]

Wipe out all the dust, dirt. Vacuum out the remainders. If you find rust, it needs to be removed at this stage, if it's not on a critical moving part; if it is on a critical moving part (such as rust build-up on the actual cam grind of the cams), give up and get a different engine or let SpecialK rebuild this one properly.

For the cleaning, the way I had suggested before, change the oil to a light oil (10 weight) including dumping the oil cooler contents, spray some oil on the valves & cams, drip some on the cam chain, put oil into the cylinders and then turn the engine by hand a few dozen times (with the plugs out). You can't turn it too often by hand for it's own good.
Get the engine running, let it run until up to full temp (oil temp above 212 degrees F), then drain all the oil out and replace it with 10w40. Repeat the run-up. If you find signs of sludge or oil deposits, pull the clutch basket, add a quart of Gunk brand engine cleaner into the oil, and run it for five minutes or whatever the manufacturer recommends. Redrain oil, refill, run up to temp, and redrain again.

Suggest that you also use fresh fuel and the maximum amount of Techron fuel system cleaner possible (this will get out fuel residues and knock down carbn & sulfur build-ups).

KNOW THIS:
each time you drain the oil on the Katana, only about 65% - 75% of it comes out because of the engine design. Draining the oil cooler increases that to about 88%. Thus, it takes at least two changes to get 95% or better of the oil changed.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[WildKat]

KNOW THIS:
each time you drain the oil on the Katana, only about 65% - 75% of it comes out because of the engine design. Draining the oil cooler increases that to about 88%. Thus, it takes at least two changes to get 95% or better of the oil changed.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

just learned something today ! 8)

[ThAzKat]

Cyber do you suggest changing the oil filter both times also??

The 65%-75% rings true for most Inline 4's, V's are better at draining off oil.

[The CyberPoet]

Cyber do you suggest changing the oil filter both times also??

The 65%-75% rings true for most Inline 4's, V's are better at draining off oil.

On the oil filters: if the oil filter that is on there is as old as the bike's engine has been in storage, I'd recommend doing a double change, once before you fire it up the first time (to make sure the filtration is working at peak efficiency as you bring rusty and dusty debris up and work it off) and again at the last oil change (since the first new filter will probably be quite filled by the crud coming out).

For a normal bike that's simply been winterized or parked for several months (no known rust or serious debris), my take is to change the filter only on the last oil change of the wake-up process, as the existing filter should still be good -- the problem in this case is that we don't know whether the existing filter is good on the engine Kirk is talking about, and you don't want to take the chance for any damages trying to save $14 on a filter... better safe than sorry.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[ThAzKat]

I agree Cyber