Stop Watch Test!

[Craft59]

I have read a bunch of posts on performance up-grades on this site.
I could just change stuff and never know if it helped or not!
It kinda seems and sounds faster!??
The racer in me say's, gotta measure it.
I don't have a Dyno, so the next best thing is a stop watch.
Will do a stop watch test on my stock 600 Kat.
Was thinking about a rolling test, this way I would eliminate driver error, clutch slippage and tire spin.
Want to check useful RPM range.
Maybe 40mph to 80mph in 3rd gear????

Things I want to try:
*Grind stock header welds for better flow.
*Yoshi slip on pipe, good sound, small performance gain.
*Ivans jet kit, good power increase at all rpm's, easy to do.
*Timing advancer +5 degrees, better low/mid range.
*Gearing, add 3 teeth on the secondary. Better pull in lower gears.

Any thoughts?
Lyle

[trinc]

after all is said & done it won't matter a bit. you WILL feel the difference - maybe not a big change on the dyno in HP numbers but by the seat of your pants it will ride alot better.


tim

edit: having the valves adjusted corectly & the sync done is also a very important step. i HIGHLY recommend iridium plugs and a FULL synth oil too.

[Craft59]

It is true the full throttle Dyno numbers don't mean alot unless your racing. This test, I hope this will show drivability improvement at low to mid rpm's.

I picked 3rd gear to do the test, because the speeds are low, so I don't get too many speeding tickets. The motor will have to pull under load at 3,500rpm up to 8,200.
I short shifted to 3rd gear and brought rpm up to a steady 3,500 which is 30mph.
Then gave it full throttle until I reached 70mph which is about 8,200 rpm.
Did this 5 times on a level road.........easy to find in Florida!
The times ranged from 6.08 to 6.23, pretty consistant.
My average was 6.15 seconds.
So this will be my baseline time.

I will do the cheap improvements first.
*1st pull the header and grind the excess weld out of the primary tubes.
Then re-test.
Lyle

[Craft59]

Followed Cyberpoets instructions on grinding the header welds.
All you need is a 6mm allen wrench and a short piece of 3/8 ID pipe for some leverage, and the header bolts came out....luckily.

Took the header to the shop and measured the ID left from the weld, (.820") was the smallest opening!!!!
Used my carbide porting tool to rough out the weld and finished with a grinding wheel.
The finished ID was about 1.00", that is a huge area increase!
Anti-seaze and bolted it back on.

Too late for a ride. so will run a test tomorrow.
Cyberpoet, thanks for info!
Lyle

[Sixpoint]

0.820"?!?!?

Man, I know my next mod.

And, I don't have any useful suggestions - looks like you have thought it out very well. But, I can't wait to see the results! Keep up posted.

Peace,

6P

[Craft59]

Stop watch don't lie!

Test #2, header porting.
Just got back from a stop watch run.
Same road, no other changes, 5 runs......not one time over 6 seconds!
Average time was 5.85 seconds.
That is a 5% increase, not bad for a few hours work.
I also noticed the idle speed is up about 100rpm.

I could not "feel" 3 tenths of a second, but the stop watch don't lie!
If I could pick up 2 tenths of a second per lap on my racing Kart, I would be real happy and winning!

Any engine builder knows that getting air in and out is the key to power.
If it wasn't for Cyberpoet, I would have never thought the header was that bad! This test proves the exhaust gas turbulance caused by the 3/16" excess weld, limits flow and power.
What was Suzuki thinking?
Why don't they weld on the outside, like most race car headers?

* Stock (6.15)
*1st mod, header porting (5.85) about 3 hours labor, no parts or special tools needed.

Next,
*2nd modification: modify ignition plate, to advance timing 5 degrees.
Lyle

[Novelldude]

Keep it coming. Very interested in your approach here.

ND

[trinc]

this mod was originally posted when i changed my 600 header for a 750 header. i suggested that everybody pull there pipes and 'correct' the welds. the original picture on my how-to pages ( hosted by cyberpoet )


is a picture of the header i pulled from my bike. a big thanks to cyber for expanding the article.

tim

[Craft59]

Test #3, header porting and ignition advance.
Pulled the rotor and modified the slot to advance timing 5 degrees, another way to do it, if you have a milling machine, an indicator, sine bar, and a 5/32 end mill.

Just got back from a stop watch run.
Average time was about 5.75 seconds.
That is a total of about a 7% increase.
The idle speed didn't seem to change, maybe 50+?
Didn't hear any pinging or back firing, am running 89 octain fuel.

So 4 tenths of a second is great for simple mods and about $55.

From the test I know it pulls stronger from 3,500 to 8,200, but I honestly can't tell!
The bike still looks stock and sounds stock. But, if everything was equal and I raced a stock Kat, I should pull away.
4 tenths doesn't sound like much, but If I figured right, at 50mph 4 tenths of a second is about 29 ft or about 4 bike lengths!

* Stock (6.15)
*1st mod, header porting (5.85) about 3 hours labor, no parts or special tools needed.
*2nd mod, advance ignition (5.75) about 45 minutes labor, rotor about $55, no special tools needed.

Enough working on it, I'm going for a ride.
Next?
Lyle

[trinc]

change the oil to a full synth.

tim

[The CyberPoet]

Lyle, you're a machinist with a shop! I'm surprised you didn't simply sit down and build a simple dyno... 55 gallon drum, with a couple paddles welded inside, then filled 70-80% with water and seal up. Put an axle on each side (or through the center), support with bearings/bracing and hook one end up to an alternator -- and measure the electricity!



Trinc's suggestion of fully synth motor oil is spot-on. You'll get the biggest boost from Castrol R4 Race oil in my experience, but I run Castrol's GPS (not as much benefit but it retains it's viscosity through the whole 3500 mile duty life and comes out about as viscious as it went in). Mobil 1 MX4T is another good, viable option.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[trinc]

i was truely amazed at the difference - a lot less resistance. i went from avt-evo to GPS.

the engine builder here ( who does dyno work every day ) also said iridium plugs are usually good for 1 hp gain.

tim

[The CyberPoet]

the engine builder here ( who does dyno work every day ) also said iridium plugs are usually good for 1 hp gain.

Based on my own experiences and common "engineering" sense as it applies to these engines, any major change in HP from a change in the spark plug electrode makes little sense to me... I swapped to the irridiums last time, and didn't notice any change -- but I did it because I know the Ivan's kit is running me a bit on the rich side (intentionally -- that's where the good throttle response & power lies) and wanted the better fouling burn-off capacity.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Wade-Kat600]

This is a REALLY interesting thread - Keep the facts comin!

[suzukisportrider2004]

tell me more about the advancer seems like a easy mod.anyone know if it does much on a stock bike?