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**ThAzKat** · 02-11-2005, 04:07 AM

Get a bell and hang it from your frame to get the gremlins out. J/K

First lets try a can of WD and spray it around the carb manifolds. If the rpm's raise then you have a air leak.
I do have a question for ya, how much freeplay do you have in your throttle handle? There should be a slight amount of freeplay. IMHO, it sounds like the throttle is putting too much fuel in at one time and that is why it stumbles. I could be wrong though.

**The CyberPoet** · 02-11-2005, 07:11 AM

Re: I'm gonna kick my Katana over!

Originally posted by kickitjp

Some fuel is being splashed around in the vacuum line (it's clear) even though I have it plugged at the end (due to using the auxillary tank)

Vacuum leak or similar problem with the venting of the crankcase, possibly worn rings.
Is/was this a california model Kat?

=-= The CyberPoet

**Anonymous** · 02-11-2005, 09:34 AM

Not it's not a Cali Kat...and has very low miles on it ~15,000 miles. Should I try the WD40 thing on both where the carbs meet the engine and the airbox? Throttle cable has a little amount of play, same as when it was running great. Choke closes all the way too..

**ThAzKat** · 02-11-2005, 10:34 AM

around the intake side, between the carbs and engine.

**The CyberPoet** · 02-11-2005, 06:23 PM

Originally posted by kickitjp

Should I try the WD40 thing on both where the carbs meet the engine and the airbox?

Remember to check that the airbox drain tube is secured (to the airbox) and capped on the other end before you start.

Get the engine started, then spray with the nozzle attachment straw, starting at the airbox and moving forward, cover each area slowly, pausing inbetween. If the RPM's suddenly shift, go back and recheck that spot again in a minute or two. Make sure you cover all the areas between the ports on the actual block to the air filter seal while checking, including the vent tube between the valve covers and the airbox.

Other places include the vacuum line from the carb to the petcock, and the tiny caps over the vacuum ports (where you sync) on each carb -- these can get small tears when removed/reinstalled.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

**katrider** · 02-12-2005, 01:10 AM

Originally posted by "The CyberPoet

Other places include the vacuum line from the carb to the petcock, and the tiny caps over the vacuum ports (where you sync) on each carb -- these can get small tears when removed/reinstalled.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

Sounds like a bad vacuum leak to me too...also, the tops of the carbs, when installed over the rubber bladders for the slides can pinch those bladders and cause leaks, so spray a little carb cleaner (I don't use WD40...) around the tops of the carbs as well.

**The CyberPoet** · 02-12-2005, 03:51 AM

I had a thought about all this today while I was fighting my headcold and bolting my fairings back on...

Have you looked in your tank (for rust, debris, water) and dropped the petcock out to check the screen on it? Could it be you're clogging good carbs real fast as a result?

Just thinking... I still think it's a vacuum issue, most likely at the little caps for the carb sync connections. You can get generic replacements at any auto parts store in a two to four pack for $1.50.

ONE OTHER COMBO THOUGHT:
In between each carb and the next is a connector that consists of a flat surface, a spring, a phillips screw; basically used to sync the carbs. If any of these are not stacked right (e.g. flat plate in the center of the spring instead of at the end of it), then the butterflies will keep shifting in relationship to each other and the vacuum levels will keep varying enough to drive the sync up and down.
There are also fuel & vent line segments in the connector/spacer rods between the carbs; they have small O-rings at each end (visible normally only if the carb stack has been disassembled) -- if any of these are misseated or missing, you could get fueling or vacuum issues.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

**Ivan** · 02-14-2005, 06:24 PM

Try disconnecting the crankcase vent hose from the valve cover....if the problem disappears then you have a serious blowby problem.

If there is excessive smoke that puffs out of the breather... especially after the engine is hot, then piston and rings are required in order to fix it.

Make sure that the float bowl vent tubes are clear (no spider nests inside) and not plugged or capped.

Ivan

**Anonymous** · 02-14-2005, 06:31 PM

Wow...Mr. Carburetor himself! Thanks,...will try and update this week!

**Anonymous** · 02-15-2005, 11:24 PM

OOOOOhhh!!!! It's better...thanks for the suggestions!!

So, with NEW spark plugs, oil, fuel lines, fuel filters, oil filter...

I took the carbs off completely, and mounted the airbox to them off the bike, and then onto the bike, making sure I was real careful of each association.

Questions:

1. At the end of the airbox drain tube...is it supposed to be capped off completely?
2. I'm about to use WD40 to check all the seals, will I blow up?

3. Do you guys use any type of mineral grease or other between the carbs and the airbox?

Thanks again!

**The CyberPoet** · 02-15-2005, 11:41 PM

Originally posted by kickitjp

1. At the end of the airbox drain tube...is it supposed to be capped off completely?

Any time the engine is running.

Originally posted by kickitjp

2. I'm about to use WD40 to check all the seals, will I blow up?

Not unless you soak yourself in it and light a match. The vacuum in the system keeps the flames in their cylinders under normal conditions and you don't need gallons of WD-40 to test it.

Originally posted by kickitjp

3. Do you guys use any type of mineral grease or other between the carbs and the airbox?

No grease. If you are worried about the rubber being old, use a rubber protectant that contains no silicone (this rules out Armor All, but you get the basic idea). Silicone degrades rubber over time, so look for stuff that does the same task without that particular chemical. Or just save your money, tighten down the screws better, and replace the rubber stacks when they get to be too old (brittle, cracking).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

**Anonymous** · 02-15-2005, 11:54 PM

OH snappy snap snap!!! I'm pretty sure it's a vacuum leak!!

So, even though I've changed everything, and replaced everything over and over again...I think Cyber has nailed in his last post for me. The old owner...(I bought this bike 1.5 years ago now) brought it to me and it wasn't running well. So just from Cyber's last post, I went and wiped the gobs of grease they had between the airbox and the carbs...which was making the seal not perfect as the airbox kept slipping off of the carbs.

So now, the throttle response is better, with great idling and consistency. When I put my hand partly over the airbox intake, the revs go up...and with it the throttle response....so I probably still have some vacuum leek somewhere...but I'll get to it.

Thanks everyone (by the way, the end of my airbox drain tube is cut so it's wide open....is there a special end to it...its looks to have been tampered with.

**The CyberPoet** · 02-16-2005, 12:16 AM

Originally posted by kickitjp

the end of my airbox drain tube is cut so it's wide open....is there a special end to it...its looks to have been tampered with.

Anything that will seal it completely (such as a bolt and a hose clamp) will work. Suzuki only sells the cap in conjunction with the drain tube (about $11 - $15 for the combo) as part number 13870-11458 for the 98+ kats... sincethe cap-end a discontinued item for the pre-98 kats, use the post 98 part.
You should also be able to find trick colored drain tubes (red, blue, etc) and caps (separate item) as aftermarket products from LockHartphillips.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

**ThAzKat** · 02-16-2005, 12:18 AM

#12 in this picture, Special K might be able to get you one or go to the stealership.

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