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Frozen Choke Cable Investigations...

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  • Frozen Choke Cable Investigations...

    After the rally (2004), my choke cable had been getting stickier and stickier. I lubed it well upon my return home, but it continued to degrade. About a week ago, the bike would start, immediately rev'd to 4500 RPM and stay there. Simple diagnosis: stuck choke cable. Ordered the OEM replacement ($21 from the local dealership, Suzuki part number 58410-08F00 for the 98+ Kats [updated: I now sell these cables, cheaper]). Installed it tonight, which fixed the issue perfectly.

    Being who I am (the perpetually curious type), I then started looking at why the old one failed in under 10k miles... here's what I found:

    (A) The routing of the choke cable carries it across the cross bar above the valve covers. In driving, the cable vibrates against the bar, slammed into the bar by the underside of the tank (see picture; note wear marks in paint from the vibration -- the zip tie was just added to replace the looser stock one) -- there's a passage raised up in the center of the underside of the tank for the cables to route through without issues;


    (B) When I pulled the old cable apart (brute force, one person on each end pulling), I found that it had frayed within the sheath at the point of vibration.


    Now I have to ask whether this is the common reason for choke cables to fail on the Katanas? I found no signs of rust or any other possible reason for the wear except this vibration-related abrasion. I'm planning on cushioning the cable's crossing point across the bar tomorrow with some foam-tape to help eliminate the issue in the future. I'm thinking it may be a common design flaw.

    Comments, insights?

    Cheers
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Last edited by The CyberPoet; 07-12-2009, 05:05 PM. Reason: Clarity
    Remember The CyberPoet

  • #2
    I say design flaw, but it's the tie wrap that does it. My guess is they put that wrap there to aling things during assembly, but it hampers operation although I'm sure it helps the assembly line.

    I normally cut or remove the tie in that area to allow more free play for all those cables. I don't think that tying them off is too good........let them roam free within their own area............
    I've owned over 70 Katanas - you think I know anything about them?
    Is there such a thing as TOO MANY BIKES?
    Can you go TOO FAST on a bike?
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    • #3
      Keith couldn't you still have one there and just not have it tied up tight. Kinda like a security thing to just keep it a little above the bar but not hamper operation of the cable. I think most people put those on to tight anyway. You use them to help keep things neat and just off other things. Just a question and my .02 worth..
      www.mopowersports.com

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      • #4
        Uhhhhhh...........yea, if they are loose. Actually, on some of the newer Kats the choke cable lays in such a way that a real loose factory clip tie is pretty good at holdign the choke cable at just the correct angle so as to allow very smooth operation of the cable..........

        But I've found they all work pretty well without any tie-off............... Just look at the cable while operating it before you install the tank.....that will tell you what to do for your Kat. Some are different a little..............
        I've owned over 70 Katanas - you think I know anything about them?
        Is there such a thing as TOO MANY BIKES?
        Can you go TOO FAST on a bike?
        Welcome to KatRiders.com! Click here to register

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Frozen Choke Cable Investigations...

          Originally posted by The CyberPoet
          Now I have to ask whether this is the common reason for choke cables to fail on the Katanas? I found no signs of rust or any other possible reason for the wear except this vibration-related abrasion. I'm planning on cushioning the cable's crossing point across the bar tomorrow with some foam-tape to help eliminate the issue in the future. I'm thinking it may be a common design flaw.

          Comments, insights?

          Cheers
          =-= The CyberPoet
          Same happened to mine as well.
          Exact same.
          BTW Nice to see ya on this board!!!!
          Thanks for past help on the planet.

          Comment


          • #6
            Had the same problem. I'll tie down my replacement.
            strifero

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            • #7
              The choke wire on my Kat snapped yesterday. It has been terribly hard to move for some time so I was kind of waiting for it.
              Pulled out the cable and found some rust and a lot of fraying, possibly on the same place as in the original post in this tread. Ordered a new wire and will hopefully have it in a couple of days. Will investigate the matter further then.

              The question is, do I tie down the wire or not? Maybe it is better to let it stay loose?
              2002 GSXF 750

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              • #8
                I put two zip-ties over it in an X pattern (holding the choke & throttle cables to the cross-bar over the valves), with the zipties barely snug (just enough not to move). That was Oct '04, as the first post indicates, and here is is three years later and the cable is still like-new.

                PS - I now carry choke cables for every 88 - 06 Kat made.

                Cheers,
                =-= The CyberPoet
                Remember The CyberPoet

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks CP

                  Sounds like a solid solution.
                  Guess the trick is no to tie it down too hard.
                  Will definitely go for the same fix when I get the new wire
                  2002 GSXF 750

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Removed the tank and pulled out the choke cable today.
                    As the picture shows there is some wear on the cross bar but it seems to me that the cable have snapped closer to the handlebars.
                    I wonder if it have been gnawing at some other point.
                    Will make sure it is routed properly when installing the new one.



                    Also you can see quite a bit of rust on the cable.

                    BTW:
                    Should the new cable be prepped in anyway before installing?
                    Are new cables pre-greased from the manufacturer?
                    2002 GSXF 750

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      well since this thread has been awakened from the dead,

                      What happens when one of the cable stays on the Carb/ slide rail is ummmm, broke or snapped off???

                      The one on the outer most of the engine, not the one with the barrell housing....



                      It was an accident I promise and don't laugh to yourself too hard, but if I'm to get my Kat running reliably and possibly, (I'm re-considering my options) eventually sold, this will have to be fixed....

                      Right now choke operation just fouls plugs, and causes me to flood the engine, or whatever happens.....

                      I really want a cheap resolution cause the only other option would be to buy another set of carbs.. where that cable stay tab isn't snapped.....

                      Doh!!



                      ps

                      as a side note, I now use Briggs and Stratton mower fuel filters from wal-mart in their mower section... Crystal clear plastic and fits just as well as the one pictured in this photo donated by yngveny.....



                      Take a Spin With The KR Mascot...
                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdjHBFbMAWE

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                      • #12
                        That's the choke cable, and as long as the choke plungers on the carbs aren't pulled out, the cable itself makes no difference to the day-to-day operation...

                        Cheers,
                        =-= The CyberPoet
                        Remember The CyberPoet

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                        • #13
                          well, i've got other demons inside the engine that need to exercised....

                          is there a pic on here that shows what a bad set of gummed up carbs look like.... from what I've seen in mine, taken off the whole set and looked in and saw nothing but the parts and no residue presen from a visual exterior stand point.... is it possible that there's more gunk deeper inside that needs to be re-cleaned... or will some carb/choke spray be a quick alternative......

                          also I cheaped out and bought Autolite plugs (4302) that cross referenced for the Katana...

                          $1.99 each on amazon.com....... $20 for 5 delivered next day air.....
                          I was curious to see if they would work...... But it turns out that I need a proper running bike before I do expirements like this again....... would you suggest gettin the NGK's or a carb re-build (which I've yet to attempt)?

                          I'm seriously thinkin about rekindling my relationship with my first bike and not selling it...



                          Take a Spin With The KR Mascot...
                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdjHBFbMAWE

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                          • #14
                            Among other things, the location of your fuel filter looks problematic, like it would cause a fuel-feed issue. The filter normally needs to sit way deep, almost at the carb, so that it's vertical during use -- if it's near horizontal, it'll form an air bubble and you'll get fuel-flow problems.

                            Don't know about the rest or what to tell you... Other than it belongs in it's own thread

                            Cheers,
                            =-= The CyberPoet
                            Remember The CyberPoet

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by The CyberPoet
                              Among other things, the location of your fuel filter looks problematic, like it would cause a fuel-feed issue. The filter normally needs to sit way deep, almost at the carb, so that it's vertical during use -- if it's near horizontal, it'll form an air bubble and you'll get fuel-flow problems.

                              Don't know about the rest or what to tell you... Other than it belongs in it's own thread

                              Cheers,
                              =-= The CyberPoet
                              right, that's true about the filter placement, and I'll remedy that with a new line from the tank....

                              and apologies for asking without my own thread....



                              Take a Spin With The KR Mascot...
                              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdjHBFbMAWE

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