What's the best way to remove a 95 Kat 750 header?

[katana_j]

I'm in the process of removeing the header pipe from my 95 Katana 750 to have it powder coated,But the bolts that connect the header to the head are pretty rusty and i'm concerned about breaking them,Is there any way to get them out without this happening? Also I've drained the engine oil and removed the cooler in order to get to the header,Will not haveing any oil in the engine damage it?

[Meikol2]

As for damage...Depends on how long you are leaving it empty. If you are only leaving it a couple days, probably not a prob. Much more than that, I would reattach the oil cooler an refill. You don't want to get moisture build-up in the internals.

You did not need to remove the cooler completely, too late now. If you unbolt the top bolts and make sure the line tie-wraps are all free, the cooler will lean forward and lift up and out. Use a towel or something to protect your fender, and let it rest forward.

But, that is done.

Spray down the bolts with penetrating lube, like WD-40 and let it sit for a while. Then go for it. Mine were REALLY rusty, and they sqeaked, but came out fine. Make sure when you get all the bolts out and you get the header out, you remove the gaskets (and replace with new) the shims (on each pipe, will probably fall on the ground), and don't lose anything.

[falcn]

I would suggest PB Blaster - soak them often and let the bolts sit overnight maybe. That stuff loosens anything!

Make sure you use a good set of sockets or allen wrenches - depending on what you have on your bike.

If they are very rusty and difficult to get out I would replace them with a new set - at the very least buff them off with a wire wheel - and upon reinstallation use neverseize compound.

Follow the other suggestions above.

[Black_peter]

+1 to Meikol2 on the moisture thing..
+1 on falcn..
Neversieze, a little goes a long way.
A tube will last a long time so buy a good quality one. One rated for heat. If you have an Allen
bit for your ratchet try giving each screw a rap
(use the bit, other wise you will damage the hex)
This shockwave could help break the screw free.
I agree to the penitrating oil, better to take a few days letting this stuff soak in and work than spend a week drilling out broken screws..

[ThAzKat]

+2 on Meikol and Falcn
+1 on black_peter

Aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates. If all else fails, bring the bike up to operating temperature and turn off. Then with in a short time loosen the bolts, don't take them all the way out. Just get them lose, try turning both ways until you get movement.

[Black_peter]

Good suggestion THAZKAT..
Sometimes you can bust a screw loose by tightening it.. Man our collective knowlage is frightening isn't it???

[ThAzKat]

I had to bring my bike up to temp to get a couple of those pre98 bolts loose. Yes the collective knowledge is great and that is what makes KR Great.

[The CyberPoet]

Only one added tip:

when you go to put the bolts back in for the exhaust headers, ALWAYS coat them with a bit of anti-seize paste. This will prevent it from being an issue in the future.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

Dude.. you're snoozing..
falcn posted that wayyyyy up there.. :P

[illinoiskat]

good knowledge

[The CyberPoet]

Dude.. you're snoozing..
falcn posted that wayyyyy up there.. :P

My apologies to Falcn... I am snoozing today in one of those kind of spacey "I didn't get enough sleep" ways... even managed to catch my pants on fire in my welding class this evening -- and the welder was off! (had to have been hot slag I was knocking down).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[SweetLou]

Cyber, does that mean you had on

"Hot Pants"???

[ThAzKat]

It happens to the best Cyber. just another leason learned.

[kwebbel]

An even better tip....
Replace the bolts with proper ss threadends (fix with locktite!) and use nuts and washers.

[ThAzKat]

once you get the old ones out you can replace with a stud/nut combo also. Which happen to be easier to take off than a bolt.