Removing fairing

[furitive_revolution]

when i bought the bike it wasn't winterized because it was stored indoors. well i have to store it in my garage and it gets hella cold at night. the shop i bought it from said it would be better for me to drain the carbs myself since it will only be outside for a couple months thats all i really need to do minus fuel stabilizer and such. anyways are the fairings hard to take off and put back on? to drain the carbs what tools will i need before i get myself into this?

thanks for any help

[md86]

Well , the fairings are quite easy to pull off , you just take out the bolts (don't forget the mirrors and screen) . However , you don't need to take the plastics off to get the carbs out . Just loosen the fairing on the left side by removing the top bolts , the tank then comes off , then the airbox (if you have one) . Then you take the carbs off . If you want to take them completely off the bike (which you don't have to do to drain them) , you'll have to take off the throttle and choke cable . But to drain them , you'll see a little screw at the bottom of the carb (DON'T flip the carbs ove ! They're full of gas !) , Get a glass or something and put it under the hole on the bottom , loosen that bolt , wait for gas to stop , then tighten again . If you don't already have a manual of some kind to show you the different parts you'll be messing with though , you might want to wait .

[Meikol2]

Ya, what he said. A good manual is really important if you are going to do any wrenching yourself. The Haynes manual is good, I understand the factory service manual is better. You can get them on the internet, or at your local Stealer.

[furitive_revolution]

sounds good. i just have the manual that comes with the bike showing the parts but not sayin anything about them. where could i find a bike manual?

[md86]

You have an '03 600 it looks like , and I've heard some people say that Clymer doesn't make one for them yet . SO I don't really know what to tell you there . How informative is the owners manual you have ? Does it just show you the basic parts of the bike , or does it go into the actual guts ?
Just searched . Found one from Haynes for '98-'02's . Anyone know how different the '02 & '03 models are (if at all) ?

http://discountautorepairmanuals.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=darm&Product_Code=MM3987-02&Category_Code=MMSUZ

[Yellow]

You can always sneek a peek at the 98-02 Haynes one here before you buy it to make sure it's fine with your model. It's an RAR archive with JPEG's.

[The CyberPoet]

The factory suzuki manuals are far better than the aftermarkets for many details.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[barnicles]

I also had many questions about carb and all. probably the same things you are going through. Bought a haynes manual for '98 - '02 katana and it pretty much answered all my questions. since then, i went as far as fix up my carb and guess what, the bike started up in a breeze and runs even better that before.
good luck

[furitive_revolution]

the owners manual just basically shows where the parts are. nothin good really. that and just basic operation of the bike. they showed me exactly waht i have to do in the shop, and my buddies gf's dad owns a shop and used to race so if i get into any muddy situations i'm sure he can help me out

[The CyberPoet]

the owners manual just basically shows where the parts are. nothin good really. that and just basic operation of the bike. they showed me exactly waht i have to do in the shop, and my buddies gf's dad owns a shop and used to race so if i get into any muddy situations i'm sure he can help me out

We're talknig about the shop manual, not the owner's manual. The shop manual steps you through the required steps one at a time, includes the correct torque values and graphics based on the actual blue-prints of the bike. It also has some decision trees and a whole lot more basic factual information (such as what variations apply to different versions of the same bike, based on country of original sale, etc). The Haynes manuals are photo-based, sometimes have incorrect torque values & missing other small technical details, but can be better for basic diagnostics (no spark plug charts in the factory manual for example -- but you can find that on the web from the spark plug manufacturer).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[furitive_revolution]

sorry forgot to mention i was answering md86's q about the owners manual. i understand what a shop manual is though but sorry bout the mix up

[KatanaO215]

i dont think you need to empty the carbs for storage. Just run the tank down, put in 2 oz of fuel stabilizer and fill the tank. run it for a few minutes and put it away.

The stabilizer will take care of the fuel in the carbs

[The CyberPoet]

i dont think you need to empty the carbs for storage. Just run the tank down, put in 2 oz of fuel stabilizer and fill the tank. run it for a few minutes and put it away.

The stabilizer will take care of the fuel in the carbs

It really depends on how long the bike will be in storage before it runs again (less then 30 days, no problem; 3 - 4 months, big problem). Draining them is always the best policy (leave the drains open so condensation will also run out).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[furitive_revolution]

ok well it just went from indoor storage to in my garage. hopefully it'll be out mid april, i'm not really sure but it will likely be run now and again on the nice days with guaranteed nice nights. should i drain the carbs or will running it now and again be alright, when no risk is being run of condensation?

does this relate to the myth busted on mythbusters that condensation and water does not hurt the engine?

[trinc]

ok well it just went from indoor storage to in my garage. hopefully it'll be out mid april, i'm not really sure but it will likely be run now and again on the nice days with guaranteed nice nights. should i drain the carbs or will running it now and again be alright, when no risk is being run of condensation?

does this relate to the myth busted on mythbusters that condensation and water does not hurt the engine?

i wouldn't go through the trouble of draing the carbs.
fill the tank & add stabilizer - pull the vacuum line off the petcock and run the bike until it dies ( that will not run the bowls dry but close ).
don't start it again unless your going to leave it running a while ( if parked it will need a fan ) it needs to get HOT.
remember - you'll need to put in to prime to refill the bowls when it comes time to start it.

once riding season comes around - add fuel cleaner to the gas run a tank through - then change the oil.

if it gets really cold - and you don't start it at all till spring - fog the motor.

tim