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"That whenever any form of government becomes destructive to these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness." - Declaration of Independance
Actually, dump the oil at 30 miles, 100 miles, 200 and 400 miles. At 600 miles, pull the oil pan off the bike and clean it out. The shavings and honings that come out in the first few miles will do the most damage, and it will decrease from there. I know you want to have that engine break in as smoothly as possible...
KNOW THIS:
During break-in, the engine needs to come up to temp fully and kept there for a while. Always let the engine run for at least two minutes before putting it in gear during the break-in, and try to stick to making longer trips (a couple 150 to 300 mile trips is better for the break-in of an engine than a couple dozen runs over to the local grocery, blockbuster, etc). I always break in bikes by simply taking a series of progressively longer mini-road-trips, putting along steadily, so the piston rings hone in tightly to the cylinder walls...
Stay off the rev-limiter!! lol No seriously, what Cyber said.
TDA Racing/Motorsports
1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258 Who knows what is next?
Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192
New Engine Break In Procedure For Cars, Motorcycles, Motocross, Snowmobiles and Boats
I know there are some on Max-Suki who breaks in their engines that way with good results...
I have serious issues with his "method" as being bad for the engine over the long haul (because of increased wear at the rings during this accelerated break-in procedure, and because of blow-by while the engine isn't fully seated). Yes, you'll probably see faster RPM increases quickly this way, but the same is true of any time you remove material between the rings and the cylinder walls because you reduce friction -- the question is whether at 10k miles, the engine is still producing maximum torque or being affected by blow-by from poor seating of the rings instead.
It also ignors the fact that he isn't responsible for your health and safety -- engines that can crank through some mismatching of parts at low RPM's are apt to seize at higher RPM's if pushed to quickly...
If you really want to bother, get a throttle lock, put the bike in second on the centerstand and let it run at 2k RPM for an hour. Then 3k, then 4k, 5k. Then go repeat it under a real load. The factory, which is responsible for the engine under warrantee and most benefitted by good reputations over the long haul knows what they are talking about...
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