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Engine Oil System Flush

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  • #1

    Engine Oil System Flush

    I haven't been able to locate any previous articles on the subject of flushing the engine oil system and my Haynes Katana service manual just has standard oil change procedure from what I can find.

    I posted in the intros back in April about buying my '99 Kat as a wreaked bike. It was droped on the left side and busted the cover over the starter clutch. It had a good bit of dirt inside which I cleaned out throughly I also pulled and disassembled the stater clutch and cleaned it. Everything in that compartment is good and clean now and I did not find much grit in the oil when I drained it from the main pan, but I would like to flush the engine just to be sure before I try to run it.

    Getting to the point, does anyone have a link to a good engine flush procedure handy?
    "The best thing for being sad," replied Merlin, beginning to puff and blow, "is to learn something. That's the only thing that never fails. You may grow old and trembling in your anatomies, you may lie awake at night listening to the disorder of your veins, you may miss your only love, you may see the world about you devastated by evil lunatics, or know your honour trampled in the sewers of baser minds. There is only one thing for it then - to learn. Learn why the world wags and what wags it. That is the only thing which the mind can never exhaust, never alienate, never be tortured by, never fear or distrust, and never dream of regretting. Learning is the only thing for you.
    -T.H. White from The Once and Future King
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  • #2
    OK, there are three ways of flushing the engine (note that whereever it says drain oil, drop the oil cooler and drain it as well):

    1. Yank the clutch pack, use a liter of Gunk Engine flush, run for 5 minutes, drain for an hour (including the oil cooler), refill the bike with oil, run for five minutes, drain again (including the cooler), reinstall the clutch pack, install a new oil filter and refill yet again.

    2. Rather than yanking the clutch pack and using an engine flush product, leave the clutch pack in and use a light weight non-energy saving oil instead (such as a straight 10 weight) -- and run 15 minutes, then drain, refill, run 10 minutes, drain, swap filters, refill. Done.

    3. Skip the engine flush and the lightweight oils, and just do two oil changes with about 10 - 15 minutes of run time between them.

    What's the deal?
    The deal is that the engine design is such that there is no way of getting out 100% of the oil without splitting the engine cases. As a result, the only sure way to get out everything is to repeatedly change oil, so the remaining percentage keeps dropping. A standard oil change gets out 65 - 75% of the oil. Dropping the cooler ups that to about 90%. Do that twice in a row (including dropping the cooler both times) and you're up to about 98% of the oil changed (because each time the new oil dilutes the remaining old oil).

    Good Luck!
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

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    • #3
      Thanks CP! Very informative as always!
      "The best thing for being sad," replied Merlin, beginning to puff and blow, "is to learn something. That's the only thing that never fails. You may grow old and trembling in your anatomies, you may lie awake at night listening to the disorder of your veins, you may miss your only love, you may see the world about you devastated by evil lunatics, or know your honour trampled in the sewers of baser minds. There is only one thing for it then - to learn. Learn why the world wags and what wags it. That is the only thing which the mind can never exhaust, never alienate, never be tortured by, never fear or distrust, and never dream of regretting. Learning is the only thing for you.
      -T.H. White from The Once and Future King

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      • #4
        Now, having said that, I've flushed a few Honda motorcycle engines in the past with the Gunk stuff without yanking the clutch pack without any problems, but I can't guarantee that it will be problem-less in that sense, so I wouldn't flat out recommend it.

        Cheers,
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

        Comment

        • #5
          Engine oil flush additives are basically: kerosene. Put it in a glass bottle and compare the two. Same stuff.

          I suggest running about 25% kerosene and 75% cheap oil for 3 changes in a row, run about 10 minutes each, back to back at a fast idle. Don't ride it! Keep the rpm low but high enough for decent oil pressure.

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