brake fluid

[iwannadie]

so i need to Finally install my front speed bleeders and figured i should do a full fluid change too. i have no idea how old the fluid is, i have no troubles stopping but the fluid is kinda nasty looking so...

whats the best way to do a total flush? can i just put the speed bleeders on and pump the brake until the fluid is gone totally then bleed in new fluid? or is it better to bleed out fluid while adding fresh until it bleeds out clean? how many bottles will i need either way for the front and maybe rear?

[md86]

Open bleeders , pump away making sure you keep enough fluid in the MC so it don't go dry . When new fluid comes out the bleeders , you're about done . Make sure you do the other side , and you're done . Takes like 5 minutes with speedbleeders .

[iwannadie]

Open bleeders , pump away making sure you keep enough fluid in the MC so it don't go dry . When new fluid comes out the bleeders , you're about done . Make sure you do the other side , and you're done . Takes like 5 minutes with speedbleeders .

cool thats what i thought, wasnt sure though if i could just bleed them dry then pump in new fluid.

i do love the speed bleeders i used them on the back a while ago. also got them for my car ready to put on next weekend.

[md86]

If you pump the MC dry , you'll have to then bleed THAT and start over . Don't do that .

[iwannadie]

If you pump the MC dry , you'll have to then bleed THAT and start over . Don't do that .

cool, how much fluid to change out the front do you think?

[The CyberPoet]

Buy a whole liter if you're doing front and back. Brake fluid is cheap, and it's better to know for sure you've bled all of it.

I recommend Castrol GT LMA brake fluid as my primary preference (CycleGear stores, PepBoys, among other places), and Valvoline PowerSynth if you can't find the Castrol. Both are clear, and both are higher spec than the DOT 4 requirements.

When I bleed the brakes, I usually never let the reservoir get below half full, just to be on the safe side. Black_peter offered up this old-tyme trick to start: use a syringe (medical, or something like a turkey baster, etc) to remove most of the old fluid in the reservoir, then fill with the new fluid before you start -- that way, you're not pushing what was in the reservoir through.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

Buy a whole liter if you're doing front and back. Brake fluid is cheap, and it's better to know for sure you've bled all of it.

I recommend Castrol GT LMA brake fluid as my primary preference (CycleGear stores, PepBoys, among other places), and Valvoline PowerSynth if you can't find the Castrol. Both are clear, and both are higher spec than the DOT 4 requirements.

When I bleed the brakes, I usually never let the reservoir get below half full, just to be on the safe side. Black_peter offered up this old-tyme trick to start: use a syringe (medical, or something like a turkey baster, etc) to remove most of the old fluid in the reservoir, then fill with the new fluid before you start -- that way, you're not pushing what was in the reservoir through.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

+1

[HS2020]

I have the GT LMA and so far I like it alot. Before I left Cycle Gear I bought 6 things of it and gave 2 of them to Micladen for helping me bleed my brakes. I did both the reservoir and calipers. Put NOS calipers on and pads. Doesn't take long with the right tools. I will be redoing mine as soon as my new brake lines come in