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Valve adjustment and carb synch to be done

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  • Valve adjustment and carb synch to be done

    Hey guys,
    I finally have a sunday this weekend that I can devote to getting the kat all tuned in. Ok, Im not sure if I have to replace some things when I remove the head. I know Im gonna need new o-rings for the oil lines that connect to the head. How big are those and can i get just 2 at a dealer or do I need to buy like groups of 10? Second, do you reccommend replacing the head gasket? I would think you would, but then I again, if I knew I wouldnt be asking. : ) I have feeler gauges for the adjustment. On to the carb synch. I watched CP's video on his "longest" 15k tune, so I kinda see what to expect in terms of movement of mercury or solid metal in the gauge. CP reccommends the Motion Pro. I like the looks....is there anything else of good quality that anyone else can reccommend for a lesser price? Or am I just being a cheap a$$ and should just get the Motion Pro for ease of future tune ups? Last question, How do most of you guys rig up your gas tank during a carb synch so that it still runs fuel and also stays out of your way? Any imput would be greatly appreciated or addition to anything I might have forgotten for these processes.

    Thanks,
    Mitch
    Chuck Norris once said that 67% of statistics are made up... everyone believed him.

  • #2
    Needed tools:

    Torque wrench capable of 11.5 lb-ft accurately.
    metric sockets/wrenches, including a 17 or 19mm for the timing signal rotor to turn the engine.
    Metric allen keys, 4, 5, 5.5, 6, 8mm. T-handled versions make for faster work, but you do need standard 90 degree versions for some of the bolts.
    Two sets of feeler gauges, preferably with a bend in them (you want to put a gauge under one valve when you check the paired valve to keep from any see-saw action going on). I'm not sure what the valve adjustment specs are on the pre-98's, but figure you should have three gauges for whatever spread the spec is for each type of gauge (i.e. - if spec is .004 to .006 for the intake, you should have .004, .005 and .006 sizes in your set).
    Valve adjustment tool or very small adjustable wrench
    carb sync tool
    9" - 12" shank #2 phillips screwdriver.
    6 to 9" set of medical forceps is the secret tool that is indispensible in my mind (use it to undo carb cable ends, remove & install vacuum caps on the sync ports, retreive dropped bits from below the carbs).
    two each 5' long pieces of fuel line hose (auto parts store) to provide fuel from the tank when sync'ing.

    Parts:
    O-rings and gaskets aren't usually necessary, but on a bike the age of yours, I'd replace all the rubber gaskets to be on the safe side (every gasket for the valve covers, spark plug holes, oil lines). Figure they have an useful life of about 5 years before they harden up enough to deserve replacement. Plus spark plugs, oil & filter. Air filter if it's questionable or due.

    As for recommendations, I actually recommend the Morgan CarbTuneII, which is what I use (once-in-a-lifetime purchase) & is what's in the video, but the cheaper of the MotionPro sync's will work as well. If you have a garage at least a story tall, you can build your own cheaply that uses water or another common liquid instead ($10 - $20, search KR or google on how-to).

    Cheers,
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

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