[Tekgnome]

What oil cooler did you use? I was going to recycle my 7 row 750 cooler to cool my b12 but I don't want to risk overheating her.

[buffalobill]

I bought a Katana 1100 oil cooler with lines. The only difference is the 1100 lines are bigger, so they flow more oil.

[Kreylyn]

What oil cooler did you use? I was going to recycle my 7 row 750 cooler to cool my b12 but I don't want to risk overheating her.

How are you counting the rows? The stock 750 cooler is like 14-15 rows in height.

Krey

[buffalobill]

Looks like using the 750 clutch cable and cover plate on the 1100 will work.
I read people don't like the 1100 hydraulic clutch, some say it drags and has a vague feel about it.

[Tekgnome]

How are you counting the rows? The stock 750 cooler is like 14-15 rows in height.

Krey

The wrong way, I dont have the bike and was going off a picture of it which was wrong.

Do you think that it will be sufficient enough to cool it?

+1
On the clutch setup let me know exactly how it fits, I want to keep it cable driven. Im assuming ill need to buy a bandit plate and have it rigged?

[buffalobill]

On the cable clutch, the cover plate fits perfect, but I can't test if it pushes the rod in easy.
Seems the used engine I bought has a problem with the clutch plates, the push rod is bottomed out and don't push back into place. So I have to open the clutch cover and find the issue.

[katanarider]

On the cable clutch, the cover plate fits perfect, but I can't test if it pushes the rod in easy.
Seems the used engine I bought has a problem with the clutch plates, the push rod is bottomed out and don't push back into place. So I have to open the clutch cover and find the issue.

I've received word from steves not too long ago that the push pin needs to be trimmed to work properly. Don't ask how much because thats all the info I have. I hope you keep us well informed on this mod because I'm very interested. I think I speak for several 1100 owners when I say details please.

[Tekgnome]

I have access to a grinder that can trim the push rod to 1/64" but ill need to know where to start. Its definitely an important detail.

[buffalobill]

I did shorten my push rod but until I find the issue with the engine, ????
The 1100 push rod is longer.
Anyway, my formula was to measure how far the 750 push rod was exposed, 54mm.
Then cut the 1100 push rod so 54mm was exposed.

This engine broke a chain on the road, so the push rod was snapped off and the sprocket cover was damaged.
I pulled the broken end out with tweezers.

[Tekgnome]

I did shorten my push rod but until I find the issue with the engine, ????
The 1100 push rod is longer.
Anyway, my formula was to measure how far the 750 push rod was exposed, 54mm.
Then cut the 1100 push rod so 54mm was exposed.

This engine broke a chain on the road, so the push rod was snapped off and the sprocket cover was damaged.
I pulled the broken end out with tweezers.

Will the 750 push rod fit in to the 1157 case or is it to big of a diameter and to short?

I just realized my b12 I bought doesn't have one

Ill have to buy an oem one if it won't fit, and grind it down.

Does it matter which end I grind off? From the pictures of the b12 push rod both ends have a weird X shape the gsx750f I have is smooth on both ends.

Im converting to steel 530 front and rear sprockets with a 530 X ring chain. Its stupid expensive and probably overkill but a snapped chain is my worst fear. :/

[buffalobill]

Ok, the 750 and 1992 GSXR1100 push rod is the same dia. 6mm.
However, I just opened up my clutch case and found nothing wrong. I was able to push the inner rod back and forth easy, no trace of damage.
I'm thinking as I did before I tried this experiment, that the 750 cable mechanism just ain't got the power to push in the 1100 clutch diaphragm springs.
I know my GS1100G cable clutch is a bear to squeeze after installing heavy duty coil springs. Actually I was looking forward to using a hydraulic clutch.
I been waiting for somebody who actually has done this mod and can share their result.

[steves]

Can you clarify the question? The reason most people ditch the hydro clutch is because those units are more failure prone over all than a cable driven clutch. Also at the track you might find yourself heating the fluid up enough that your shifts might get soft.

So far as putting a cable actuated cover on, it's easy. Put the cable actuated cover on the engine and grind down the push rod until everything engages correctly

[katanarider]

I'm thinking as I did before I tried this experiment, that the 750 cable mechanism just ain't got the power to push in the 1100 clutch diaphragm springs.

Diaphragm springs ??? I'm not sure what springs your talking about.
Do you mean the clutch plate basket springs ?

EDIT: Here is a idea to get a measurement for the push pin...Smear a little grease on the pin, when the clutch is squeezed and the pin slides into the engine/dust wiper the grease will rub clean from the pin revealing a clean/degreased area on the pin. The excess grease on the pin shows how much material you need to grind off.
2nd EDIT: Actually, the last part of that idea is not a great idea now that I think about it. Why? Because there will always be a little space in between the engine and the worm gear/push mechanism. Any how, atleast it will give you some what of an idea of how much the pin travels. Maybe try the idea with 2 different size pins , but just don't grind any material off until you feel comfortable with the measurement.

[buffalobill]

So Steve, yes you have done this mod? Or just heard about other people doing it?

[steves]

Yes, on the Kat600 to B12 swap that's currently sitting in my shed.