93' (Shim) Valve Adjustment

[Purplehaze]

EDIT:

Read the Write-Up (but I suggest you also read the rest of this thread):
Pre-98 (92'-97') Shim-Over-Bucket Valve Adjustment -- 56K Beware(Picture Intensive)


Alright Katriders,

I'm gonna do it. After looking around a large amount and doing my best to search I have decided I'm going to do a valve adjustment. My Kat sounds like a tractor, and although I understand that by nature the Kat is a valve-loud bike the two PO's (who I had the opportunity to meet) were utter fools so I'm assuming it hasn't been done in forever.

I've understood so far the basic idea, re-opened my manual, and watched many videos over Shim (not Shim Under Bucket) Valve Adjustments on 4-cylinder motorcycles. I am, however, still very unsure.

What sort of shim-set should I get? How do I correctly know which shim to (guess) close to inorder to properly adjust? What sort of special tools will I need?

From what I understand it can be done with tools I already have (Small flathead, feeler gauges, tools to remove the head)

I've found this thread though the search, and am still a bit iffy on the operation. I am mechanically inclined and have done plenty of valve and head work on my car but I don't want to cock anything up on my bike horribly, and have no experience with Shim adjusters.

Any and all resources you guys can link me to from preparation, Strator cover removal, Head removal, to the actual procedure. Any personal experience with Shim adjusters or general adjusting theory (On the tight or on the loose side of spec?). Is there a video or audio recording of how a Kat should sound with a proper valve adjustment recently done?

Thanks in advance, as always.

[cvfd63jr4]

About todo the same keep this updated very interested

[steves]

Your best bet is to measure the clearances, inspect the tables, then order the new shims you need.

[skjeflo]

Your best bet is to measure the clearances, inspect the tables, then order the new shims you need.

+1 to this.

I did mine soon after I got the bike up and running back in June. A bit time consuming but not overly hard to do. I found a small magnet (like an extendable nut/tool rescue one) helpful to pull the old shims out without the worry of dropping them into the engine.

Just like steves said, went through once and just took measurements, wrote them down and then compared them to what I was supposed to have. Figured out what new ones I needed and went down to the local powersports dealer and picked up what I needed. Measured them all again when I was done and closed it all back up.

For a first time ever doing the process it went well. Took my time, done in about 4 hours, including the time to go get the new shims. But I was doing a couple other things as well at the same time (while I had the tank and fairings off). I'd guess next time I do it it will be more like a 90 minute process, even being VERY careful.

[steves]

There are tables in the service manual to help with this.

http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5?title=Shim_Tables

Do the math yourself to doublecheck, sure... but

[92xjunker]

Or to limit down time order a shim kit from Hot cams. I personally use a micrometer to measure the old shims for wear once removed and make my calculations between the old shim and the actual gap size as to what the spec should be. It's not that difficult to do at all, as long as you position the cam and check the proper valves as stated in the manual.

[skjeflo]

I guess I used a mix of the previous two posts. I used the shim tables but wanted to verify the shim sizes, so used a micrometer to double check. In a couple of cases I had to use the meter as the old shim had no or questionable (as in half gone) markings on it.

As 92xjunker said, beyond that its really just a matter of following the manual.

[Purplehaze]

There are tables in the service manual to help with this.

http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5?title=Shim_Tables

Do the math yourself to doublecheck, sure... but

Of course it would be a different Wiki page

I suppose I'm a bit confused then, would it not be beneficial for the future to order a whole shim set and keep the ones currently in my head for future Valve Adjustments? From what I'm understanding here there will be wear on the Shims, making them useless in the future?

I have a micrometer (that damn thing was invaluable in correcting the float heights the PO had all over the place) and will definitely be using it liberally.

The only issue I have is (if my memory serves correctly) my local power-sports place *doesn't* allow returns, and while I'm going to triple check everything I'm still not keen on messing it up.

[skjeflo]

When I checked mine I found no wear on the shims themselves. A 2.33mm in an engine with 28K on it measured out at 2.33mm, at least for me. Had they been done before, who knows?

I didn't buy the whole shim set because my local dealer actually took my old shims in trade for new ones. I know, weird, a dealer NOT out to screw me over....

[Purplehaze]

Well, I suppose I'll make my measurements and note them carefully and come back when I have the whole list to see if anyone has anything horribly wrong.

KatRiders can also expect to see a write-up on this soon with plenty of pictures; after I've finished and have a hind-sight of experience I'll be posting it for all to see.

[crazycraven420]

KatRiders can also expect to see a write-up on this soon with plenty of pictures; after I've finished and have a hind-sight of experience I'll be posting it for all to see.

thats one thorough write up we dont have...as far as I know.

[Purplehaze]

Quick update for you Katriders:

I'm a college student returning to the garage every weekend. As such my Kat has limited time frame in which she can be worked on. I've completed all the preparations with instructions to prepare to take off the Valve Cover. It's my goal to return next weekend and do the adjustment ASAP. I didn't want to be half-way though the adjustment and have to return to college and I'm banking as a first-time adjustment it'll take up a lot of time.

[steves]

You could get a shim kit, but you mentioned wanting to do it on the cheap. Even if you buy a shim kit it's possible that you might not have enough of some shim that you need. Some people have been pretty lucky and can shuffle the shims around to get the clearances correct. Alternately try calling around to a few dealer to see if you can buy single shims or swap them straight up.

[Purplehaze]

Alright Katriders, I'm either driving myself insane with reading or am a fool with the search feature. I'm researching tons before I return to the Kat and I'm trying to find the correct valve clearances I'll be searching for when doing the adjustment. The manual I'm using for my 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 tells me the valve clearances should be 0.10mm - 0.15mm, yet most of the threads on KatRiders here mentions different clearances are required for Intake and Exhaust valves; this doesn't surprise me because although I'm led to believe that's the proper manual it's images and procedure discuss Screw & Tappet Adjusters. Am I using the wrong manual? Which one seems to be correct?

I'm also interested in checking other components for wear and tear, checking the Cam Chain Tensioner for example. Any suggestions on components to check for wear and any information on proper procedures if not already in the manual or it seems insufficient based on experience would be greatly appreciated.

[92xjunker]

It is stated in the manual under valve adjustment.