Bringing a Kat back to life

[Eskimo10]

So I just bought a 91 Kat GSX600f the other day for $460 (great buy IMO). Hasn't been started in a while, maybe 2-3 years or so. I'm looking into doing the plugs, wires, oil change, battery, de-rustify, plus fix some of the fairings. Question is what else should I check for? The tires are new, brakes are good, I think the tank is rusted to hell, haven't looked inside but I can hear crap rolling around in it. Any hints and tips are super appreciated!

Also, I posted this in the introductions, but I think this would be a better palce for it. Are there any post Kat parts that fit a pre Kat? Fairings in particular, but anything in general? Thanks!

[Kreylyn]

So I just bought a 91 Kat GSX600f the other day for $460 (great buy IMO). Hasn't been started in a while, maybe 2-3 years or so. I'm looking into doing the plugs, wires, oil change, battery, de-rustify, plus fix some of the fairings. Question is what else should I check for? The tires are new, brakes are good, I think the tank is rusted to hell, haven't looked inside but I can hear crap rolling around in it. Any hints and tips are super appreciated!

Also, I posted this in the introductions, but I think this would be a better palce for it. Are there any post Kat parts that fit a pre Kat? Fairings in particular, but anything in general? Thanks!

Welcome to KR!

You probably won't need to swap the plugs unless you really want to. The wires are attatched to the coils, also another thing you generally don't need to swap out.

I would...

Pull the carbs and carb boots. Replace the engine to boot orings (about $2 a pop, 4 total).
Clean the carbs fully (not just spray and go, do a full dip with all parts and jets removed).
Inspect all rubber, make sure it's not cracked or hard. Repair/replace as nessasary.
Make sure you have a stock airbox and stock air filter, clean, and in good condition.
Replace the vacuum and fuel lines with new.
New oil and oil filter.
Clean and lube all the cables well.
Drain, flush, and use new brake fluid for both front and back. Consider new brake lines (unless you already have braided steel lines installed). If not braided lines, they need to be replaced.
New tires... even if they seem to have good tread, most likely they are old enough and hard enough that they are not going to perform very well. Tires have a shelf life... and will harden and degrade over time.

As for the body work... nothing swappable between pre and post, but you can find aftermarket fairings for the pre out there. Maire makes cheap abs alternatives, and there are some companies who offer fiberglass alternatives. Any aftermarket option will not be a perfect fit, but they are workable.

Or you could focus on buying used OEM parts and/or fix parts you have. Lost of threads here on how to do that, and it can be done cheaply and easily.

The biggest thing to keep in mind is that old unused rubber hardens, and won't seal well. So generally speaking, these bikes after sitting may have issues with rubber allowing for vacuum/air leaks in the carb department... and this causing idle/running issues. Clean them well, replace hard/cracked rubber, and you will save yourself alot of hassle down the road.

Krey

[woobie]

Welcome to KR.

While your at it inspect the chain very carefully, check the o rings between the plates and make sure they aren't damaged.

If you gonna do all the work Kreylyn listed you might as well change the fork oil and possibly seals too. Depending on where it was stored you might want to also pull the calipers off and clean them up, get any crap on the pistons cleaned off etc.

Oh hell, get the plastics off and give the wiring a once over too. You might as well while you have her apart for everything else. Make sure nothing has been rubbing the insulation off anything.

Any idea when the last valve adjustment was done?

[Eskimo10]

What kind of lube and oil do you guys recommend for the forks, and cables, etc?

[Eskimo10]

...none?

[woobie]

Just normal fork oil for the forks, you might want to go with a heavier weight than stock. As for the cables I bought the cable lube like this http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partd...asp?partid=147

[Eskimo10]

Welcome to KR! You didn't mention if you got a 600 or a 750. I believe that you should be able to use the main fairings of any pre kat. The tail fairings are different between the 600s and 750s.

If I can use the main fairings from a post can I use the gas tank from a post? Thanks!!

[Kreylyn]

If I can use the main fairings from a post can I use the gas tank from a post? Thanks!!

The post fairings and tank have different shapes, and won't match up between each other without work. The fairings also mount differently, so you would need to fab mounts for that. The post tank can be mounted with no mods, but it will not match the pre fairings.

If you don't mind bracket fabrication, drill and tapping frame, welding, abs moulding and fabrication, paint and body work... you can make it work and unique.

I've seen a couple of pre bikes with modded post fairings put on that looked pretty hot actually, but they are rare to find.

Krey

[Eskimo10]

Alright, so I've had time to tear into this bike, and I've got a few questions. 1 - how do you remove the fuel tank cap? Does it have to be unlocked? If so I'm screwed b/c the lock won't turn. 2- is it necessary to replace the forks? Or just the oil in the forks? Thanks!

[Kreylyn]

Alright, so I've had time to tear into this bike, and I've got a few questions. 1 - how do you remove the fuel tank cap? Does it have to be unlocked? If so I'm screwed b/c the lock won't turn. 2- is it necessary to replace the forks? Or just the oil in the forks? Thanks!

To remove the tank cap, you have to have it unlocked. There is a security screw under the lid to prevent just taking the 4 bolts out of the external ring and pulling it all out.

If you have the right key, it's probably just frozen up a bit. I would try some lube and work the key back and forth while pushing down on the cap to relieve pressure against the catches. Don't put so much pressure on the key that your bending or gonna break it. You want lighter repetative movements. It should eventually come free.

Once you do have it off, tear apart the tank cap and clean out the oxidization in it, lube it with dry graphite lube... and it will work fine.

Krey

[Eskimo10]

Thanks man! I'll see what I can do!

Also how about the forks? 2- is it necessary to replace the forks? Or just the oil in the forks?

[woobie]

Thanks man! I'll see what I can do!

Also how about the forks? 2- is it necessary to replace the forks? Or just the oil in the forks?

Change the oil, for the amount it'll cost you might as well do the fork seals while you have it all opened up. Pull the springs out and measure them, the "service limit" should be in the repair manual.

[Eskimo10]

Appreciate all the help guys! One more question (until I run into others lol). And I don't mean to beat a dead horse but can I use a gas tank and fairing from any pre Kat? IE a 750 tank or fairings on a 600 bike? Or 1100 tank or fairings?

Thanks for all y'alls help!

[foxox]

Appreciate all the help guys! One more question (until I run into others lol). And I don't mean to beat a dead horse but can I use a gas tank and fairing from any pre Kat? IE a 750 tank or fairings on a 600 bike? Or 1100 tank or fairings?

Thanks for all y'alls help!

AFAIK, the front fairings are swappable between 600/750. The tail fairings are DIFFERENT between 600-750.

I don't think the 1100 are similar at all, but I could be wrong (it's happened before :P).

Someone else will have to answer about the tank.

[Eskimo10]

Thanks bro! any body know about the tank?