Rattle cans or Spraygun?

[srm1988]

Hey guys got another question for yall.. Will i get a somewhat good paintjob just by using rattle cans or should i use a spray gun?

[kevin2502000]

Use a spray gun they are cheap and you will have a better finish and true clear coat protection.

[DreKat]

[Nero]

I've gotten good results with a rattle can, but you've got to know what you're doing. The quality of paint and the technique is really key to pulling it off.

[HexKrak]

Once upon a time I remember seeing a tip about putting the rattle can in a bucket of warm water 20 minutes before use. Tips like these are all over, if you use the search and do some research I bet you'll be able to get a nice finish regardless of which route you choose.

[kevin2502000]

The biggest difference between the rattle can and spray gun is the quality of clear coat. Unless you spend money on that good atomized 2-part in a can, it will not be resistant to gas. By the time you spend the money on that you can have a quart of clear for a gun. I think it was around $30 for a quart plus the activator in Nason line. You can rattle can certain types of paint and then use a spray clear over that but you have to make sure they are compatible. I did this for my "aluminum" colored parts because it was much cheaper to buy a can of aluminum acrylic enamel for $5 instead of a pint for $25 in base coat. You cannot tell the difference either.

[tmk7c9]

You can get a decent finish with a rattle can....the problem is that the paint itself is usually junk. That fantastic finish you got with a rattle can will look like crap the first time you overfill your gas tank and it strips all the clearcoat off. ask me how I know

Use a paint gun (they're like $15 at a harbor freight store), get some *decent* quality paint (even O' Riley's sells Nason base/clear paint for very reasonable prices) and you can get a finish that will last many years, and many gas spills. It's definately worth the money to do it right.

The biggest difference between the rattle can and spray gun is the quality of clear coat. Unless you spend money on that good atomized 2-part in a can, it will not be resistant to gas. By the time you spend the money on that you can have a quart of clear for a gun. I think it was around $30 for a quart plus the activator in Nason line. You can rattle can certain types of paint and then use a spray clear over that but you have to make sure they are compatible. I did this for my "aluminum" colored parts because it was much cheaper to buy a can of aluminum acrylic enamel for $5 instead of a pint for $25 in base coat. You cannot tell the difference either.

Holy cow, is there an echo in here? You beat me to it

[Nero]

When I say 'rattle can' I mean the better stuff. Not that crap named Krylon and such. You can get passable paints in a can, though again, technique and a great primer is crucial. You have to have some practice. I'm a large-scale model builder and paint often. If you're not comfortable with the technique, practice first with some cardboard and cheap paint.

[kevin2502000]

You can get a decent finish with a rattle can....the problem is that the paint itself is usually junk. That fantastic finish you got with a rattle can will look like crap the first time you overfill your gas tank and it strips all the clearcoat off. ask me how I know

Use a paint gun (they're like $15 at a harbor freight store), get some *decent* quality paint (even O' Riley's sells Nason base/clear paint for very reasonable prices) and you can get a finish that will last many years, and many gas spills. It's definately worth the money to do it right.




Holy cow, is there an echo in here? You beat me to it

I got a touch up mini hvlp for $25 at Menards, it's the perfect size for doing bike fairings. It did a better job than the $100 set I was told was good. Make sure the pressure is high enough that it atomizes just like a spray can, the finer the better imo.

[srm1988]

thanks for the tips and info guys

[paul.miner]

I plan on painting a tank this spring, so I searched around (both here and elsewhere) trying to make sense of the whole rattle can vs spray gun thing.

The key problem area seems to be with the clearcoat. You can get a decent paint job with a rattle can, but getting a clearcoat that resists gas is a problem. Even when the can says gas-resistant, it doesn't really hold up.

The problem basically seemed to be that you can't put very much hardener in a rattle can without it setting up before it hits the shelves. From what I gather, that's why the spray gun clearcoat works well, it's two-part that's mixed just before use.

There are two-part rattle cans that have a button you press to release the hardener into the can to be mixed, after which you have a limited amount of time to use up the can. I couldn't find it locally, but they are sold online. Supposedly, this gives you a gas-resistant clear coat comparable to a spray gun. I'm hoping it will, because I bought a can, just waiting for better weather.

[srm1988]

thanks paul i think i might try it your way

[kspiatt]

paul let us know how it works when you get a chance to try it.

[Mojoe]

I have never been a fan of rattle cans mostly due to the fact that I grew up around a body shop, and up until just recently (last 10 years or so) rattle can paint has been pretty much crap. the clear still is, imho, and you will run into problems as others have mentioned.

There are two problems with using clear in rattle cans, that I consider to be the worst. First, as mentioned before, they can't really put enough hardener in it because it will reduce shelf life. and 2nd....I just find it doesn't go on thick enough. when someone says they put on 4 coats of clear with a rattle can, it is only equal to two, maybe three, coats with a hvlp gun. you know....high volume, low pressure, with emphasis on "high volume". it's the high volume that is the key to a nice clear coat. rattle cans just don't spray enough volume, and what happens if much of it is "dry" before it even hits the surface you are painting.....which makes it hard to get a nice flow and shine. If you look really close at most rattle cans jobs, you can see what I mean. it still looks good, and shines, but more often then not it is just a bit cloudy. most people don't even notice it, but those who know the difference can usually spot it. more often than not it is in localized spots. it's kinda of a biatch to get it really even with a rattle can.

So, biggest drawback to using rattle cans, imho, is that volume I was speaking of. if you really want a glasslike shine, and have enough clear to allow for some buffing....well, you will need a chit load of rattle cans. I personally would even try it on a full fairing bike like the kat unless I had a dozen cans of clear. and with the price of those, you could buy a quart of clear and an hvlp spray gun.

IF you go with rattle cans, which can produce a nice job, don't buy your clear off the shelf. the basecoat is fine, but for the clear I would head to an automotive paint supply store and request they mix you up the rattle can clear to the specs you need. most places are set up to fill you a rattle right there. by doing this, they can mix it the exact same way you would mix it at home to use in an hvlp spray gun. you know...with a suffient amount of hardener. the best is to order it a day or two before you are ready to spray. the stuff on the shelf....not enough hardener. they put just enough so it will set, but not so much that it will go hard on the shelf. so...just "special order" it in the rattle can and you are way ahead of the game.

if you do go rattle can, just beware of one mistake I have seen made a few times. DO NOT try to squeeze the last drop outta that spray can. as the pressure lowers in the can, the "spray" diminishes. anyone who has used a rattle can knows what I mean.....at the end of the can when the paint or clear just sort of dribbles out.....usually all over your finger you are spraying with. when this happens, you often get little drops spurting out and landing on your work, which can trash a paint job on a hurry. so, DO NOT try to squeeze all you can out of the rattle can.

[Freebird01]

one other thing im surprised that no one here mentioned...ive had many different rattle can clears not go on clear. they leave a subtle yellow hue to them many times.