[Contrldkaos]

Well, I've got the sensor mounted, the JB weld is drying right now. CP tells me that the sensor he sells also comes in a variety of different temperature ranges as well as different pin configurations. That's probably what I'm going to do. No worries of cutting corners with the sensor mounted to the motor and no worries of ground biasing due to the one wire sensor. This may actually end up working great!

Also, I edited the first several posts to reflect the new HEI info in case someone starts buying stuff before reading the entire thread. Old info is still there for reference.

you ran your sensor to the mega squirt correct? any suggestions on how to run a fin sensor to a gauge? i dont really like not knowing where my bike is at temp wise and would like to remedy that. so much damage can be avoided if you know when your beginning to overheat.

[SnowBandit]

Have you seen this yet.. Kinda interesting.

http://lcdash.wikispaces.com/

[Rok_Stars_Bars]

With the ignition advancer many of you use, does the mileage go up? I'd imagine it would, but does only a 5 degree difference make that much of a difference in MPG? Basically wondering if its worth the money in the long run.

As a sidenote, **** progressive insurance. Apparently its their policy to allow you to sign up for liability only, but then a month later they decide "Well, he probably meant to have un/underinsured on there too" and jack the rates up. Without consent. I just received an email from them notifying me of the upcoming payment, and it jumped from $22 to $72 a month. WTF? I immediately check the policy info online and sure enough, someone went ahead and activated un and underinsured coverage on my policy. I sent an email to them and they reply "Sorry we sent you a confirmation in the mail. If you didn't want it you should've indicated that in the letter and sent it back." What the ****? This isn't how thats supposed to work. Never even got the letter. I signed up for X coverage, agreed to a price, and provided my signature. If I don't want coverage, I don't ****ing want it, do NOT change my policy without permission/authorization/signature. **** progressive. Rant mode off.

I didn't notice a drop in MPG with my 5 degree. My current gas MPG is 48-58 MPG depend on Throttle position LOL. I have my days. 48MPG is mostly city driving and lots of see how fast I can get 10 mph over the speed limit. And the 58mpg was pure hwy driving

And the Progressive thing since I have a loan on my bike I have to have full coverage. My insurance payment was $107 per month. Then I had a spending ticket finally come off and now it is $88 so I was happy to see the drop. But Im 22 and married so age might play a part.

[TheSteve]

Well I've been riding it everywhere since sunday. I gave my brothers car back so if the Kat breaks down it looks like I'm walking. At first I was getting 32-33mpg, but after cooling off on the throttle a little bit (not much) I'm up to 39mpg. I got another good datalog and it looks like I'm running pretty rich in the cruise area. I'm about to install the new tune and see what the gas mileage does the next few days.

With the ignition advancer many of you use, does the mileage go up? I'd imagine it would, but does only a 5 degree difference make that much of a difference in MPG? Basically wondering if its worth the money in the long run.

As a sidenote, **** progressive insurance. Apparently its their policy to allow you to sign up for liability only, but then a month later they decide "Well, he probably meant to have un/underinsured on there too" and jack the rates up. Without consent. I just received an email from them notifying me of the upcoming payment, and it jumped from $22 to $72 a month. WTF? I immediately check the policy info online and sure enough, someone went ahead and activated un and underinsured coverage on my policy. I sent an email to them and they reply "Sorry we sent you a confirmation in the mail. If you didn't want it you should've indicated that in the letter and sent it back." What the ****? This isn't how thats supposed to work. Never even got the letter. I signed up for X coverage, agreed to a price, and provided my signature. If I don't want coverage, I don't ****ing want it, do NOT change my policy without permission/authorization/signature. **** progressive. Rant mode off.

[JMT.357]

Great thread

[TheSteve]

Progress! The bike started up on its own with no assistance from a car battery every single time today! Hot starts, warm starts, and even cold starts with just a quick blip of the throttle while cranking! Finally. Hah.

So the CTS was JBwelded between cyl 3 and 4, but while it was drying it must have shifted slightly because I couldnt get the plug on. It rotated so the head's oil line was blocking access to the plug. I had to get to work, so I broke it off and wedged it below the starter motor for now. Seems to pick the temperature up well enough, but I do plan on reattaching it either tonight or tomorrow morning. Need to dremel off the excess jb weld though first. Even in this less than optimal spot, the CTS made all the difference in starting. Once fixed in place to the cooling fins it should be perfect. Just in time for school starting back up on monday.

[TheSteve]

Not so much here, you can actually set where you want the AFR to be in a load vs RPM table and it adjusts that one cell separately. It's very easy to tune, I just am not certain where to set the targets.

[ThAzKat]

mapping can be tricky, you make a change in the midrange and it will change bottom end or topend.

[TheSteve]

So do you think I could lean it out a bit at cruise or keep it where it is? Theres also the possibility that the tune needs to be touched up a little bit since it was originally scaled to 8 cyl mode. Though the way it works it should be mostly independent

[ThAzKat]

I would think high load would be taking off from a stop and running up the gears. 11,000 rpm would be high load. I would suggest some dyno/EGA run or 10
on the car to katana example, katana is oil/air cooled compared to liquid cooled cars that can run alot leaner because they run low temps.

[TheSteve]

Alright, so the sensor is installed and this morning I started tuning the cold start stuff. This can be tricky because the engine only reaches a true cold start state after sitting for about 7 hours. So you only get maybe 2 shots at getting it right in a normal day, unless you never sleep and you might get 3 tries. I've got it to kick over pretty easily but I'm not 100% certain yet. I'll have to try again tomorrow. Hot starts seem to be going pretty well now. I also filled up the tank again, looks like I'm getting 32.3 MPG, which isnt too bad all things considered. I had a nice fuel spill while adding a hose clamp on and probably lost a decent bit. I'm heavy on the throttle too. Lastly I'm sure I waste a TON of gas every time I sit there trying and failing to get it to start. Once the tune is further improved mileage should go up. Which brings me to another point:

I've read numerous times here that Kats come from the factory very lean. Which is why theyre so intolerant of K&N filters, etc without rejetting. How lean are these things running stock? I want to lean my mixture out quite a bit but I really dont want to trash pistons. I dont have an EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge so I dont really have any warning either. So right now its tuned as a car would be: stoich idle, lean cruising (15.0:1 or slightly higher AFR target), and rich up top (between 13.5 and 12.8). I think I can go much leaner, but I'd like some input from people with Kat/GSXR/Bandit engine experience specifically (though any sportbike engine tuning experience if ok). I'd like to keep the idle around 14.7 for now to curb the occasional stallout issue though it hasn't happened in some time. WOT can probably be leaned out some, though probably not much. I'd imagine it gets pretty hot in there at 11,000 RPM. Cruising is where I want to lean it way out. You can do this out to over 17:1 in a car because the temps are pretty low, but with cruise here being the redline of most cars I feel I need to keep it rich. For reference on cruise RPMs, in AZ on surface streets you can go around 50-55 and on the freeway its between 70 and 85. I can definitely lean it out for street riding, but its the freeway I worry about. Is that considered "high load" or is it still cruising?

[ATOMonkey]

Way to go Steve! Can't wait to hear about the results! I think this thread need a vid of her starting up and running too.

[TheSteve]

Well, I've got the sensor mounted, the JB weld is drying right now. CP tells me that the sensor he sells also comes in a variety of different temperature ranges as well as different pin configurations. That's probably what I'm going to do. No worries of cutting corners with the sensor mounted to the motor and no worries of ground biasing due to the one wire sensor. This may actually end up working great!

Also, I edited the first several posts to reflect the new HEI info in case someone starts buying stuff before reading the entire thread. Old info is still there for reference.

[TheSteve]

Factory temp sensor? I think the only sensor the Kat has on it from the factory is the oil pressure sensor, to trigger the red light on the dash. If I find a sensor with the matching thread pitch I could pull that out and replace it with a temp sensor but I'd lose the oil warning light. I found my TBs on ebay for less than 50 bucks shipped

[Contrldkaos]

just an out of bounds thought but not possible to wire directly to the factory installed temp sensor?

thanks alot man. im looking for all the parts now so that i know where to go when i get the TB's at a resonable price. thanks for putting all the effort into this for people like me that dont have the time to. i hope to have this going so i can ride it before i go to the sandbox next summer.