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Corroded Forks

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  • #16
    Dude, no offense. But maybe the reason you dont like your anodizing and prefer paint is because your doing it wrong. I know for a fact it requires sulfuric acid. Even something as simple as a wiki search will tell you that. Aside from the fact that ive used this exact method to reanodize beretta lowers. i learned alot about anodizing when i taught myself how to blue guns as well. Both processes are basically a controlled form of corrotion to prevent an unwanted reaction with air. Either proccess only affects the surface of the metal no chance to get brittle.
    Last edited by Mrontime; 08-06-2017, 02:05 PM.
    We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.


    • #17
      It's not a preference to me, I do what I want to do, what ever I feel would be best for the project. I have all anodized aluminum on my bike. I'm basing off my experience working on a few that I have done. The fork tubes do not anodize well, the foot controls and clip-on clamps do well. Not sure if the tubes are more pot metal or a different type aluminum but, they tend to anodize splotchy.
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      • #18
        Ok got me interested as have been tossing up either painting or polishing But anodizing sounds interesting.

        Now painting or polishing I don't need to take the the forks apart
        Could you anodize them without taking them apart?

        If the acid solution was just the right depth?
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        • #19
          In my opinion, if you have the forks off allready why not rebuild them as you either paint or anodize them. Taking them apart is the correct way to do the job either way. It keeps overspray down and takes the fork oil out of the equation. I wouldnt wanna try to dip a whole fork in acid and electricity anyways seems a bit unmanagable and dangerous. Whatever you choose, doing the job correctly give the best possible outcome.
          We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.


          • #20
            A lot of the parts on the Kat are cast from white metal, not necessarily high aluminum content. Covers for sure, wouldn't surprise me the fork lowers are as well. White metal isn't going to give as good a color on anodizing the old way (electrolysis and acid). New methods are used now days that allow for "anodizing" on all sorts of metals and even plastics.

            Hell, they even have spray on chrome now that actually looks like chrome.

            As a hobbyist who has tried anodizing these exact Kat parts.... I'm gonna say it's not going to be an easy task for the avg person. Additionally you end up with a lot of hazardous chemicals that aren't cheap to dispose of.

            Good luck with which ever path you pick.

            93 750 Kat

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            • #21
              Thats good common sense talk right there. Also what i have found is that when you try to polish the metal up to either paint or anodize the metal really shows itself for the quality it is. If it wont polish up, it wont anodize.
              We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.


              • #22
                I wrote to a couple of places that offer kits for anodising and both stated that results can vary a lot depending on the metal quality, given that forks on the Kat aren't exactly top quality it's a fair assumption that the metal used for the lowers might not be the greatest quality. Think I'm going to go with polishing and applying a clearcote of some kind and will resort to getting them powder coated if that fails!!