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a few quick painting pointers!

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  • a few quick painting pointers!

    I've spent a good deal of time in the body shop threads and I have to say, I am impressed with the amount of time people dedicate to sharing there knowledge with potential do it yourselfers. Alot of the threads are very accurate. There are only a few things that I haven't came across that are important steps, or procedures to remember when painting your kat
    First, whether you are using rattle cEeans or a spray gun, remember, paint does not stick to bare plastic. As long as you dont sand through the original paint, this shouldn't be an issue. Primer alone does not stick to bare plastic either. I have seen paint and primers in rattle cans that say they stick to plastic, I can't say personally if they work or not. I can say however, in the event that you must sand through your paint down to the plastic, (any areas bigger than a quarter) I highly recommend using an adhesion promoter before you prime. These products are available in lots of forms the rattle can types sold at napa made by SEM work great.

    There are two types of adhesion in the painting industry. Mechanical and chemical. Mechanical being sanding a part to create a rough surface to promote adhesion. The second is a chemical adhesion that relies on a chemical to change the wetability of a substrate thus creating a chemical bond. Chemical is the only type of adhesion that works on plastic. Period.
    Another Pointer is for those of you who who plan to put decals on your color coats before you clear. There is nothing wrong with doing this. But you must be patient and allow proper dry time before sticking you decals. If you place them too soon, they will develop air bubbles that will appear about 10 mins after placement. You must realize when your base coat is drying, it is releasing solvent into the air that can't be seen until something like a sticker traps it. I have ruined my fair share I now wait over night, and have been problem free. I have even Waited as long as 2-3 hrs, and still developed bubbles. Its extremely frustrating because they are air bubble free for a while, then you walk away and come back and it looks like it has pimples.
    All in all thanks for all the informative write-ups. Im about to undergo a headlight mod thanks to some incredible knowledge shared here. Thanks to all

  • #2
    While I see your point, and have no reason to doubt your knowledge, I believe people find poor adhesion on their paint (from rattlecans) to bare plastic is because they finish the sanding of the ABS with too fine a grit, and then do not use a filler primer. I perfer to finish with 320 wetsanding, wash, dry, then filler primer onto bare plastic.

    My paint job is only a few weeks old, and I don't have much painting experience before, mind you.

    If you need any know-how on headlight mods (projectors, specificly) I'm running dual 35mm bi-xenon balasts on a pre, and would be willing to share what I know.
    - Purplehaze
    All-Black 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 (Click for pictorial fun!)

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    • #3
      Wait till you chip it, you'll see that is really didn't bond well.
      "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
      spammer police
      USAF veteran
      If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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      • #4
        I've had a great deal of experience with painting all type of plastics. And I have personally failed with adhesion a few times. I have been properly trained in this area, and assure you if you dont use some type of chemical adhesion, you wont find it anywhere else. I do agree that alot of people tend to finish with a grit of paper that is entirely too fine. Personally I feel anything less tan 600 is dangerous. 400 is my goto. 320 is fine for non metallic paint or if you plan to prime. With plastics however, (this is a dangerous statement) you are not required to sand at all. In fact using anything more than the equivalent to a grey 3M scotch brite pad can cause undesirable results. Like turning the plastic "furry". You can achieve optimum adhesion on clean plastic without doing anything other than spraying an adhesion promoter on it first. Although I personally recommend a light scuff with the above mentioned grey pad. Be careful also with using alot of filler primer as it doesn't tend to be very flexible. Kats have pretty ridgid plastics and dont require alot of flex, but if it is used too heavily, it requires a flexible parts additive to keep it from cracking.

        The projector headlight mod is exactly what I plan to do. I have looked for a couple years on the net to buy a cool aftermarket lamp, I tried modifying mine with a set of led halos bought from autozone. And they cooked under the heat of the halogens. Luckily never caught fire. So now I have to open the assembly again to clean out the burnt mess it left me with. You get what you pay for I guess. I may need some insight about what to buy. Not too familiar with the wiring it take to mark the shutter work on the hi xenon type either.

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        • #5
          I am running the exact same setup as sporty_drew's impressive projector retrofit thread, except in duals. The acutal setup I am running was acutally built by "91_gsx600F katana" for his turbo build thread which I picked up second-hand after his wreck.

          The major thing I can say is that you're going to want to run a complete harness for the headlight, most find that 2.5" projectors fit perfect, while 3" is usually too large. DDM tuning is where I prefer. Their harnesses are top-notch and they've got a easy to navigate site with fair prices. As you can find from 91's thread there's a H4 harness that allows you to use the stock headlight plug to control the high/low beams.

          As for providing power to the harness, I have a auxiliary fusebox installed for all my accessories. Note that as the bulbs ignite there is a very high amerage draw. So I wouldn't want to use anything less than a 20amp fuse (DDM tuning harness comes with a in-line 30amp) for the off chance it's dark and you blow a fuse and are stranded somewhere...

          Here's my setup
          sporty_drew's
          Another

          EDIT: Oh yeah, can't go forgetting Wild_Bill's first foray
          Last edited by Purplehaze; 03-04-2015, 09:43 AM.
          - Purplehaze
          All-Black 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 (Click for pictorial fun!)

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Purplehaze View Post
            I am running the exact same setup as sporty_drew's impressive projector retrofit thread, except in duals. The acutal setup I am running was acutally built by "91_gsx600F katana" for his turbo build thread which I picked up second-hand after his wreck.

            The major thing I can say is that you're going to want to run a complete harness for the headlight, most find that 2.5" projectors fit perfect, while 3" is usually too large. DDM tuning is where I prefer. Their harnesses are top-notch and they've got a easy to navigate site with fair prices. As you can find from 91's thread there's a H4 harness that allows you to use the stock headlight plug to control the high/low beams.

            As for providing power to the harness, I have a auxiliary fusebox installed for all my accessories. Note that as the bulbs ignite there is a very high amerage draw. So I wouldn't want to use anything less than a 20amp fuse (DDM tuning harness comes with a in-line 30amp) for the off chance it's dark and you blow a fuse and are stranded somewhere...

            Here's my setup
            sporty_drew's
            Another

            EDIT: Oh yeah, can't go forgetting Wild_Bill's first foray
            Where did you get the aux fuse box from?

            I'm still waiting to do my headlight mod for a day where I've got lots of time... Got a feeling I might run into some problems lol.
            2005 Suzuki Katana GSX 600
            - Aaron

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            • #7
              As for the Aux Fuse box, I got mine from an EBay outlet of (can't recall the business name) a reputable seller that had a separate website setup for all electric stuff. Their EBay outlet had everything cheaper. My suggestion would be to get your hands on a GANGED fuse box (one 16g + wire to feed all the outlets) so that you aren't clogging up your battery-box area with a bunch of leads. I peeled back the taping on my + Battery terminal connector, didn't skimp on solder to connect it, zip tied around the solder for good measure, then electrical taped the whole thing.

              Although, I drive mainly country back-roads and if my headlight went out at night it would probably result in serious injury or death...
              - Purplehaze
              All-Black 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 (Click for pictorial fun!)

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Purplehaze View Post
                As for the Aux Fuse box, I got mine from an EBay outlet of (can't recall the business name) a reputable seller that had a separate website setup for all electric stuff. Their EBay outlet had everything cheaper. My suggestion would be to get your hands on a GANGED fuse box (one 16g + wire to feed all the outlets) so that you aren't clogging up your battery-box area with a bunch of leads. I peeled back the taping on my + Battery terminal connector, didn't skimp on solder to connect it, zip tied around the solder for good measure, then electrical taped the whole thing.

                Although, I drive mainly country back-roads and if my headlight went out at night it would probably result in serious injury or death...
                I honestly hate this wiring stuff. I'm such a chicken when it comes to it.

                I can tear down any engine or transmission and rebuild it with quality parts and to factory standards, but when it comes to wiring... ugh....

                I want to give this headlight mod a try, but I also don't want to fry a bunch of stuff on my bike while doing it.

                Off topic... lol
                2005 Suzuki Katana GSX 600
                - Aaron

                Comment


                • #9
                  The major thing I can say is that you're going to want to run a complete harness for the headlight, most find that 2.5" projectors fit perfect, while 3" is usually too large. DDM tuning is where I prefer. Their harnesses are top-notch and they've got a easy to navigate site with fair prices. As you can find from 91's thread there's a H4 harness that allows you to use the stock headlight plug to control the high/low beams.
                  My bike is a post kat, are the 2.5 inch still recommended? those bikes look great with that upgrade. I really like the halos. Im gonna check in to those harnesses tonight for sure. Someone on here needs to start building those lamps and selling. You could charge a core to insure you get enough lamps even if they were built to order.

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                  • #10
                    Yeah we are rather off topic eh? Oh well.

                    Oh I didn't know you were doing a post. I have no idea on those, althoughI would imagine the H4 harness to be the best choice. FjCharlie and other post-projected owners may wish to chime in.
                    - Purplehaze
                    All-Black 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 (Click for pictorial fun!)

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Purplehaze View Post
                      Yeah we are rather off topic eh? Oh well.

                      Oh I didn't know you were doing a post. I have no idea on those, althoughI would imagine the H4 harness to be the best choice. FjCharlie and other post-projected owners may wish to chime in.
                      You still want to go with 2.5" lamps and yes you certainly want an H4 harness.

                      H4's are meant to be high-low beam, whereas something like the H7's are a single filament bulb and don't have the high/low control like an H4 does.

                      Do a quick Google search on H4 vs H7 and you'll see what I mean.
                      2005 Suzuki Katana GSX 600
                      - Aaron

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