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Spray what? Lol

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  • #16
    Oh I'm going to try, I haven't feather sanded anything in a while.


    • #17
      Just to throw some stuff out there. Clear coat is applied with in a "window" after the base coat. No sanding, the clear will chemical cross link to the base. This applies to both rat can and automotive paints, unless there is some new product I'm not aware of.

      If your base came out bad (runs, sags, fish eye, solvent pop) then it is best to let it cure, sand, then respray another couple of coats, then clear when your happy.

      Rattle can paints take a while to cure, you might be best waiting a month before trying to wet sand. Doesn't mean you can't run the fairings on the bike in the mean time (at least wait a week before using) then wash them down sand, polish, wax.

      Also when sanding stay away from the edges, this is were the paint will be the thinnest and you can sand threw before you know it.


      • #18
        Wet sanding rattle can paint can be tricky. When wet sanding the cars we restore , since I hate wet sanding, I use 1200, If its not too bad, I'll use 1500. Now just like what Jman2343 said, it takes a while to cure. Even in the sun. It is rattle can.

        Use a good cutting compound to start the buff. Then a swirl mark removing compound if needed. But, its just waiting for the good cure.

        It looks good so far. I love doing garage style paint jobs. Hell our shop doesnt have a booth so we Always have to wet sand. Pisses me off though but we manage.


        • #19
          It didn't turn out to bad...

          Nice temporary fix...much better than my cracked scratched upset of fairings. I can't wait for next month though when it will all be wrapped
          Attached Files


          • #20
            Another angle...

            Front right.
            Attached Files


            • #21
              The steps I chose to take, and a view from the right

              1. Sanded...everything! With 800 wet or dry paper.
              2. Repaired scratches and chips with a product from bondo that adheres to metal, plastic, wood and fiberglass.
              3. Sanded to smooth the repairs with 800 again.
              4. Sanded everything one more time with 1000.
              5. Light coat of primer/filler from rustoleum to fill any remaining chips and scratches.
              6. A heavier covering coat of rustoleum primer with out filler.
              7. Dry sanded! With this primer I attempted a wet sand and the product began to run!
              7. Cleaned with a lint free cloth.
              8. A light first layer of paint rustoleum pro gloss black.
              9. An even thicker coat, and then once more.
              10. Sprayed the first layer of crystal clear, also rustoleum, and then one more.
              11. As for my mosquito incident...first I attempted to wet sand the booger sanded it out yes, but it mad the surrounding clear coat to peel almost like a sunburn would. So I dry sanded it with 1000 grit wet or dry, and that seemed to smooth it out nicely. Then I sprayed another bit of clear over that and kind of feather the sprays out to match the rest. It's still a bit me at least haha.
              12. And finally, I did not sand, wax, or buff the clear. I liked the kind of tacky look. I didn't really want it to shiny.

              Some issues I had...
              Hand sanding these are a pain. Especially trying to sand the holes that attach the fairings to the bike. I suggest using a Dremel or drill attachment.
              The bondo product I used worked great for scratches, chips and cracks that were in the 'center' of the fairing, but for any cracks on the edge, they didn't hold up well.
              Reinstalling a set of fairings that weren't originally on your bike, is also a pain lol. You would think they would be a direct fit...but I really don't think so. I had to stretch, push and pull numerous parts to get it to fit somewhat correctly.
              And last but not least, really has nothing to do with the painting process, but the new bolt kit I used is t great. I got them from probolt. Not all of the screws are the correct size for a pre. And the brackets they include do not work on the tabs for a pre. They also do not include the rubber inserts.
              Attached Files


              • #22
                Glad everything worked out and your happy with the results. Looks good man
                Last edited by Mrclean81; 06-05-2014, 02:36 PM.
                If it aint broke fix it till it is


                • #23
                  I would say it looks pretty good as well. I can definitely see where you mosquito landed though haha. But that's just me, I look for that kind of stuff (perfectionist).

                  I plan on painting my Kat in the future due to a bunch of road rash from the previous owner, so thanks for posting up your process to get your Kat fixed.

                  Overall, looks pretty good!
                  2005 Suzuki Katana GSX 600
                  - Aaron