Anyone do Carbon Fiber work?

[redkat06]

I'd like to make the gauge surround in c/f at least cover it in a thin layer instead of the vinyl kits they have out

[Spedee]

This is real Carbon Fiber:

From: http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

[Anonymous]

SpeeDee!!! Woohoo!

[Fork]

It is done the same way as fiberglass and if you have to form it around curves use a vacuum and a plastic bag

[WildKat]

fibre lyte is good stuff and very popular as well. Never heard a bad review from them.

[Phoenix_Rising]

Speedee what about the part that surrounds the blinkers, it looks like it's a bit different finish than the rest of the CF. Also could I use the Yoke protector template from the 01-02 section and have it fit?

[paradoxmd]

i think black_peter has carbon on his gauge panel...not sure if it's a vinyl cover though.

[Spedee]

I traced that on to a piece of paper then cut it out of vinyl. Just wanted the whole look.

Yes I think the yokes are the same. Not the 750 though.

Spedee what about the part that surrounds the blinkers, it looks like it's a bit different finish than the rest of the CF. Also could I use the Yoke protector template from the 01-02 section and have it fit?

[WildKat]

Thats a nice job w/ the cut man, never looked at it that close before till now.

[Fork]

I just finished mine tonight and it's still wet and in the plastic bag. I'll post some pictures when it comes out of the bag and give you detail instructions. Considering that a 36" X 36" CF cloth is only $27 plus around $10 for the resin, you can do a lot of covering dirt cheap.

[Fork]

Ok, this is how the fabric looks after it is skinned over.




Just like fiberglass but it lays down even better after the resin soaks into the fabric. I coat the actual part first with resin and then I place the fabric over it making sure that it stays in a 90 deg. form. Then I start soaking it with resin using a small brush and as it soaks it starts to become more flexible and it follows the shape of the part. The lines in the pics are from a plastic bag. I had a plastic bag over it and used a vacuum to suck it down against the part. Those need to be sanded with 600 and another coat or two of resin need to applied before the final sanding and buffing cause you don't want to sand the fabric.

This particular part did not need any vacuuming cause the fabric was able to bend around the shape but I did it to show just how it looks with the bag on it. The wrinkles might look drastic but they are only hairline thick.

The most important thing is to get to know your resin and how fast it reacts to the hardener. Using half of the recomended hardener dose is better cause it gives you a chance to work with the fabric and it only increases the curing time by a day. So for a test get a "Bondo" brand at Home Depot and then go to a fiberglass supplier for a gallon of good stuff and it will probably be cheaper.

Ps. keep your skin away from chems at all times.