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spray gun painting help

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  • spray gun painting help

    well i do industrial painting but thats quit a bit diffrent then auto paint. so can someone give me a step threw step run threw of what i need to do what sand papers to use etc like 1st prime then 2 sand with such and such a paper. would be a great help thanks

  • #2
    not sure about spray gun, but as for what grade sand paper, ect. here you go

    PAUL
    93 GSXF6 PIX.

    "Opinions are like A$$holes, Everybody has one"

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    • #3
      pm sent

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      • #4
        Originally posted by duff daddy
        pm sent
        your a professional painter now ROFLMAO
        TDA Racing/Motorsports
        1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
        Who knows what is next?
        Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
        Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

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        • #5
          Originally posted by duff daddy
          pm sent
          Duff, why PM? Share your knowledge man!

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          • #6
            many people will have a difference of opinion on some of these things, but it works for me. there are a couple of things to consider, first are you making any repairs that require you to sand down to bare plastic? If so you may need to prime with an adhesion promoter as many paints and primers will not stick to bare plastic.

            if you are simply giving your ride a coat of paing to change the look I would wet sand with a 400 grit. this will remove the clear and give you a good starting point (be careful not to sand to bare plastic for reason mentioned above).

            once the bike is completely sanded and cleaned with a degreaser, it is time for primer. Personally, i believe that you are better off priming the entire bike (or area to be painted) with a good quality primer filler. spend the money and get a good primer to be used with an hvlp paint gun. I will never use rattlecan primer again. priming the entire surface will help ensure a good coverage and even tints. especially when using a lighter colour of paint. Once the area is primed I would use a different colour of primer, and lightly mist spray the area. (example use grey primer in hvlp gun and red rattle can for topcoat) Don't spray it on to heavy as the purpose is to help identify high/low spots during the next sanding stage (rattle can is fine for this step as you are just sanding it off).

            Wet sand the 2nd colour primer off with 600 grit paper. once all high spots and low spots are eliminated use 1000 grit paper for final wetsand before paint. once entire surface is prepped, clean, paint and post pictures.

            as i said many people may disagree with above and deem a lot of it unnecessary, but after painting a few cars using the above process, it works well for me, and produces great results.

            Currently my bike is sitting in the final stage awaiting paint. I just havn't had the time to get it done. i will post pics when i do.

            Anyone else got any other tips?

            cheers


            www.SOARacing.ca

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            • #7
              yea but wat about wet sanding the paint and clear coat etc......

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              • #8
                Originally posted by chinto
                if you are simply giving your ride a coat of paing to change the look I would wet sand with a 400 grit. this will remove the clear and give you a good starting point (be careful not to sand to bare plastic for reason mentioned above).
                yes but almost no primer will fill a 400 grit scratch, you need to go up to 600 to make the primer surfacer and sealer do their job and flow correctly.

                Once the area is primed I would use a different colour of primer, and lightly mist spray the area. (example use grey primer in hvlp gun and red rattle can for topcoat) Don't spray it on to heavy as the purpose is to help identify high/low spots during the next sanding stage (rattle can is fine for this step as you are just sanding it off).
                all he is talking about is a guide coat, we use a dry guide coat works good even with wet sanding... make sure its all gone and dont be scared to go to far.

                Wet sand the 2nd colour primer off with 600 grit paper. once all high spots and low spots are eliminated use 1000 grit paper for final wetsand before paint. once entire surface is prepped, clean, paint and post pictures.
                DONT USE 1000 GRIT SAND PAPER!!! exp if your useing a epoxy primer and or paint, you wont get the correct amount of mechanical adheason to the primer dont go aboe 600 on that primer. you can use a primer sealer and i reccomend it. you just spray the sealer over the primer surfacer b4 your color goes on. you can sand the color but there is no point, if you use a metallic color and you get what looks to be orange peel in your paint after you wet sanded the clear with 1000 1500 and 2000 you didnt spray right, your spray pattern was off or your over lap was wrong and you got some motteling of the metallic's (its a common prob)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by tzortn
                  Originally posted by duff daddy
                  pm sent
                  Duff, why PM? Share your knowledge man!
                  let me know what you wanna know i can answer anything you want hopefully i have my notes from class my hand outs and if i cant ifnd it ill ask my teacher ...

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                  • #10
                    well on the topic i thought id post a picture of the paint booth i get to play in all day. its the one in back of the pic that has all the lights on. its big but sometimes i wish it was biger. that one in front is the oven for the big booth

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                    • #11
                      sweet you said you do industrail painting, so you use pressure pots???

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                      • #12
                        [quote="duff daddy"][quote="chinto"]
                        like I said, there are a lot of different opinions out there. Talk to 10 proffesional painters (which I am not) and you will get 10 different approcaches based on their individual experiences.


                        www.SOARacing.ca

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                        • #13
                          i know, i asked my instructors at school, and they say your gonna get bit if you keep useing the 1000 girt for your primer

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                          • #14
                            yea we use pots for conventional then we also do airless.

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                            • #15
                              nicei kinda wanna try the pressure pot painting

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