[whitecl0ver]

OK since this thread is on the topic....I have a question....What brand of rattle can black, and what kinda of prep work is necessary to have a nice matte black coat? and typically how many cans would it take to do a front fender, rear fender, and gas tank? also what grit sand paper is recommended to start with to get the old paint off and down to bare metal

I have been thinking about painting my v-start matte black...

[teddy]

OK since this thread is on the topic....I have a question....What brand of rattle can black, and what kinda of prep work is necessary to have a nice matte black coat? and typically how many cans would it take to do a front fender, rear fender, and gas tank? also what grit sand paper is recommended to start with to get the old paint off and down to bare metal

I have been thinking about painting my v-start matte black...

As for rattle cans, I prefer SEM products, available at any good auto body supply store.Unless you have body work to do, there is no need to go to bare metal. Just evenly sand the existing paint down with 320-360 grit and use a primer sealer for a good base. Then apply as many coats as needed for it to be covered, and STOP PAINTING! I see post after post of guys who say they put 'eleventeen' coats of paint on their bike. TOTALLY UNNECESSARY! In fact, it's a huge waste of paint and money. Once the part is covered evenly and the color you want it, it is DONE. I would say two maybe three cans would do both fenders and the tank.

[whitecl0ver]

sweet man thanks....
any other tricks to avoid runs and such?

[teddy]

sweet man thanks....
any other tricks to avoid runs and such?

take your time. you want it to look professional when you are done then act like one when you paint it, not the guy a Maaco...NEXT!!!

seriously though, light even coats is the key.

[ras]

Have the best of both worlds, come up with a nifty design using gloss & flat.

That sounds like a genius at work.

[rockclimber24315]

OK since this thread is on the topic....I have a question....What brand of rattle can black, and what kinda of prep work is necessary to have a nice matte black coat? and typically how many cans would it take to do a front fender, rear fender, and gas tank? also what grit sand paper is recommended to start with to get the old paint off and down to bare metal

I have been thinking about painting my v-start matte black...

If you sand down to bare metal I don't think you'll have any fairings left?
Sand it with 320 untill it's dull looking (clear coat off)
Blow it off, tack rag.

Spray very light coats, you don't want to cover the whole thing in 1 coat, kinda mist the surface then let it dry and go back and mist it again. eventually you will have it all coated.

spray a filler primer first to fill in any small imperfections like sanding marks. What really makes a job look good is sanding between coats: just scuff up the whole thing with 1000 then blow it off, and tack rag it. If you put clear coat on, don't sand before you put the clear coat on. Let the paint flash (tack up) then spray a very light clear coat on, then again let it flash, and spray a little (very little) heavier clear coat. But the first layer of clear should be super thin.

Hope that helps and good luck.

[chinto]

spray a filler primer first to fill in any small imperfections like sanding marks. What really makes a job look good is sanding between coats: just scuff up the whole thing with 1000 then blow it off, and tack rag it.

Just to clarify are you suggesting that he sand with 1000 grit between each coat of base?

[whitecl0ver]

Question, dont think i'ma dumbass but i've never done any paint and body before, what is a tack rag?

[JHILDE]

Basically a sticky cheese cloth. It gathers up the dust. You should be able to find it in any paint department like lowes, home depot.

Hilde

[whitecl0ver]

Basically a sticky cheese cloth. It gathers up the dust. You should be able to find it in any paint department like lowes, home depot.

Hilde

What and you just wipe down the surface you panted once it's dryed to lift off any access crap?

[chinto]

What and you just wipe down the surface you panted once it's dryed to lift off any access crap?

wipe down the surface before you paint

[rockclimber24315]

Just to clarify are you suggesting that he sand with 1000 grit between each coat of base?

Yeah as long you're not shooting something fancy, like pearl or flake or anything like that I would sand between coats just a little. Thats how i learned, you sand primer before you paint it, you sand paint before you paint it, the only thing I didn't sand was my top coat before clear. Plus with 1000 you are essentially rubbing your hand over the whole thing...

If this is wrong let me know, thats just how I roll.... it's worked for my car so far.

And A tack cloth is like a sticky dust magnet. they give me cold chills.

[chinto]

Yeah as long you're not shooting something fancy, like pearl or flake or anything like that I would sand between coats just a little. Thats how i learned, you sand primer before you paint it, you sand paint before you paint it, the only thing I didn't sand was my top coat before clear. Plus with 1000 you are essentially rubbing your hand over the whole thing...

If this is wrong let me know, thats just how I roll.... it's worked for my car so far.

And A tack cloth is like a sticky dust magnet. they give me cold chills.

I'm no expert, but I think if you sand with 1000, you are practically polishing the paint leaving little for the subsequent coats to adhere to. Personally when I paint, I do not sand between coats. Basically I lay down the primer and wet sand with 400 grit. Spray the base coats, usually 2 to 3 depending on the coverage (allowing the paint to flash between coats), and then spraying the clear. I use the 1000 grit to wetsand the clear before buffing.

[rockclimber24315]

^ Chinto,


makes sense to me since 1000 is just removing the very small high spots and is used to polish and shine anyway... the guy that taught me said that by doing that it would cut down on the chance that it would orange peel. So I'm guessing that it is mainly just removing a layer and gives you a fresh layer that hasn't had anything in it, say if a hair landed in the outside layer (I have a homemade booth) while drying while not taking away alot of paint as the lower grits would. But I have seen plenty of great paint jobs that haven't been sanded between coats. I might try no sanding in between base coats next time, it would certainly save time!

[PilotC150]

When I put finishing coats on furniture that I build, I rub down the surface with 0000 Steel Wool between coats. It's the finest steel wool that you can get. It's enough to scuff the surface, as far as the next coat is concerned, not enough to make it visibly foggy.

I'm not sure how that would translate to paint, but it might be something to look into.