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After a paint job, decals then clear??

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  • After a paint job, decals then clear??

    ...so I'm getting my cycle prepped for a full on paint job.

    I have done limited painting and bodywork in the past but only on cars (metal) and have learned a lot after poking around here. You people know so much on this site, I'm turning into an addict!!!

    90% of my plastic is in tip top condition, so can I simply sand, clean and then paint the best parts --- or do I need to prime entirely?

    The curren't paint is a non-factory glossy black (no decals anywhere) but it wasn't the best job performed by whoever...so do I NEED to prime since it will be black on black?


    Also, I'm not really sure of the best method of finishing off the job.
    I am putting on some new chrome decals, but I want to lay my color (high gloss black with metal flecks) then laydown the decals, and then clear, in order to help protect the decals. --- Is that a good idea, or should I lay the decals last?
    My concern is the clear not adhere well to the smooth decal surface.
    How do they get this to work so well at the factory...is there some kind of enzymatic process or something?

    Ultimately I want the black to be as reflective as possible; going for a mirror finish, a really deep shine that will complement the chrome decals.

    Thanks everyone. It's been a pleasure here so far!!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I am ALWAYS a big fan of primering. A lot of primers fill small holes in the body work and lea to a better finish. If yo want a top notch paint job then I woul say primer if not then paint over old...
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    • #3
      Agreed, if you want the #1, 100% best job possible you should start with bare metal and plastic and work your way up.

      How good is the paint that is on it? I would not hesistate to paint over good sanded factory paint, but if it has crappy paint on it, might as well sand it down and start over.

      Oh, and with decals, if you clear over them you had better intend to keep them forever.
      I became insane, with long intervals of horrible sanity. -- Edgar Allan Poe

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      • #4
        Originally posted by paperairplane
        Agreed, if you want the #1, 100% best job possible you should start with bare metal and plastic and work your way up.

        How good is the paint that is on it? I would not hesistate to paint over good sanded factory paint, but if it has crappy paint on it, might as well sand it down and start over.

        Oh, and with decals, if you clear over them you had better intend to keep them forever.
        +1
        -jason

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        RIP ROB (AKA BREEZE)

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        • #5
          Paint's not bad

          The paint isn't bad (on about 95% of the body)

          The tank has a couple little dings and dents but I've always planned to body fill them (good idea?) anyway. Which of course requires extenstive sanding, primering, etc.
          Tank is priority.

          Can anyone recomend a really high quality bodyfill product?
          (I only need about a table spoon or two total)

          Other than that, the paint on the body is great except for a few scuffs and a couple chips so I figure I can just paint over paint after some good sanding of the problem areas, and a light sanding to rough-up the rest.

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          • #6
            It also depends on the kind of paint that's on it now. You can't put a good quality automotive paint over a lower quality paint. You'd get "fish eyes" everywhere. One of my friends is a painter and he always strips it down to the bare plastic then gives it a coat of plastic adhesive promoter (or something like that) and then a coat of primer and then the base coat. If you want to clear the decals then put them on after the base coat. Just make sure you don't have really cheap decals that the reducer may have an affect on. Better to pay a bit extra and get them from someone that uses 3M or something of the same quality. So much easier for waxing too when the decals are under the clear.

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            • #7
              I know lou primered my plastics when he painted them..and if the damn post office ever delivers them, I'll put up some pics

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Need4Speed750
                I know lou primered my plastics when he painted them..and if the damn post office ever delivers them, I'll put up some pics

                Hope the Beer I put in there held up to the Post Office handlers.
                Kan-O-Gixxer!
                -89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
                -Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
                -Ohlins Susupension
                -Various Other Mods

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                • #9
                  lou you paint?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by lucky6man
                    lou you paint?
                    NO he sniff's it LMAO!!!!
                    TDA Racing/Motorsports
                    1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
                    Who knows what is next?
                    Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
                    Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

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