painting base/clear over a spray-bomb job

[bwiencek]

OK - previous owner did a quickie spray bomb paint job - he even had a couple cans left over and gave them to me for touchup

Anyhow - anyone have luck with using an epoxy primer/sealer over the spray canned plastics then using a regular base/clear system?

[AzCyco]

Re: painting base/clear over a spray-bomb job

Anyhow - anyone have luck with using an epoxy primer/sealer over the spray canned plastics then using a regular base/clear system?

I would take the paint all the way back down.. Then prime/base/clear the job..

[bwiencek]

Re: painting base/clear over a spray-bomb job

I would take the paint all the way back down.. Then prime/base/clear the job..

Take it back down to the plastic? What's the best to use for that job - Sandpaper, chemical stripper or ???

[brooder]

120 grit sand paper will take it down to plastic fairly quickly. At least it manages to for me. You can also just sand everything down (not necessarily to plastic) and then paint over. There are a couple of guides in the How-To and Paint and Graphics sections.

[Mojoe]

the fastest way possible to strip it down is by sandblasting. someone who knows what they are doing can have your whole bike done in an hour tops.

but like brooder said....no need to strip it down unles it has been painted 3 or 4 times already. too much paint on your fairings is not a good thing.

[bwiencek]

120 grit sand paper will take it down to plastic fairly quickly. At least it manages to for me. You can also just sand everything down (not necessarily to plastic) and then paint over. There are a couple of guides in the How-To and Paint and Graphics sections.

I was planning on sanding it down a bit to give the primer/sealer something to 'bite' to - I was mainly wondering about paint incompatability between the spray-can stuff and the base/clear. FWIW I've got omni epoxy primer in black ,a DuPont base with their Basemaker reducer (they had a mis-tint that was real close to the color I wanted so it was dirt cheap! - I've only used PPG stuff in the past), and going to follow that up with some PPG 2001 clear I've got.

Any recomendations on flash or dry times between the base and the clear since they're 2 different makes of product...

[Mojoe]

hmmmm....Omni (never heard of it), Dupont and PPG......what else you plan on throwing in there?

good luck with the mix....hope it works for you. personally, I learned my lesson from mixing different brands.
I would be painting a scrap part to test if I were you. if not, you risk a reaction.

[bwiencek]

hmmmm....Omni (never heard of it), Dupont and PPG......what else you plan on throwing in there?

good luck with the mix....hope it works for you. personally, I learned my lesson from mixing different brands.
I would be painting a scrap part to test if I were you. if not, you risk a reaction.

Omni is PPG's "Low Cost" line of paint products and they're compatable with PPG's paint line for the most part - just not quite as good as their 'top shelf' stuff.

It's either do a cheap base/clear paint job on it or leave it in the rattle-canned flat-black spray paint... I'd rather try and get it looking better - the bike isn't going to ever be a "show quality" bike and I'm just looking to make an old bike not look like it was stolen and painted to cover up the color

[cynicalrider]

you wont be able to put real paint over the rattle can stuff trust me. my uncle used to have a shop and now he just does work on the side and he offered to paint my stuff if i did the prep work. i sanded everything down to be as smooth as a babys bottom and then we put the primer on and it wouldnt stick to the rattle can shit. so i had to take thinner and strip down everything to its original paint which was something like turqoise silver and purple. then i sanded it for him to prime and paint

[TBFGhost]

As long as the guy who spray bombed it before you did a good prep job before he sprayed you should be okay if you use a primer-sealer...If you are gonna use that Dupont Base, try using Dupont's Nason Line Primer-Sealer....it is like $35 for a quart kit and I like it.

[Mojoe]

you wont be able to put real paint over the rattle can stuff trust me. my uncle used to have a shop and now he just does work on the side and he offered to paint my stuff if i did the prep work. i sanded everything down to be as smooth as a babys bottom and then we put the primer on and it wouldnt stick to the rattle can shiate. so i had to take thinner and strip down everything to its original paint which was something like turqoise silver and purple. then i sanded it for him to prime and paint

you can spray over ANYTHING if you prep it correctly. it is always wise to remove as much of the "cheap" stuff as possible, but if you can't for some reason, sand it then spray it with a primer adhesive. it is basically a glue that is made to work with primer. it sticks to the cheap paint, and the primer sticks to that.

the biggest threat with spraying over cheap rattle can paint is a chemical reaction. this can be avoided by applying a very very fine coat, then letting it dry thoroughly. then give it another fine coat and let it dry as well. once you have 2 coats that have cured thoroughly, you can spray as normal.
it is when you put it on too thick or "wet" that gets you in trouble cuz the chemicals have time to eat through before setting. It is usually the reducer in the primer, paint or clear that is the culprit.

[chinto]

you wont be able to put real paint over the rattle can stuff trust me. my uncle used to have a shop and now he just does work on the side and he offered to paint my stuff if i did the prep work. i sanded everything down to be as smooth as a babys bottom and then we put the primer on and it wouldnt stick to the rattle can shiate. so i had to take thinner and strip down everything to its original paint which was something like turqoise silver and purple. then i sanded it for him to prime and paint

you can spray over ANYTHING if you prep it correctly. it is always wise to remove as much of the "cheap" stuff as possible, but if you can't for some reason, sand it then spray it with a primer adhesive. it is basically a glue that is made to work with primer. it sticks to the cheap paint, and the primer sticks to that.

the biggest threat with spraying over cheap rattle can paint is a chemical reaction. this can be avoided by applying a very very fine coat, then letting it dry thoroughly. then give it another fine coat and let it dry as well. once you have 2 coats that have cured thoroughly, you can spray as normal.
it is when you put it on too thick or "wet" that gets you in trouble cuz the chemicals have time to eat through before setting. It is usually the reducer in the primer, paint or clear that is the culprit.

Even with a very thin coat you run the risk of a reaction. best bet would be to remove the rattle can first. This is of course an unnecessary step but if you have the time and patience, I would recomend it. Failing to do that I would seal it first before applying the new paint. Mojoe is right in that most times you can get away with the thin coats, but I have experienced a reaction before using this technique.