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help painting my bike

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  • help painting my bike

    I bought all my paint and clear coat etc. I am using to paint my bike. The guys at the store told me all I need to do is wet sand the peices and paint over with the color coat then the clear coat is this true or do I need primer.

    Also I am painting it two colors. All the lines are straight so is it ok to just tape down the lines and over what I don't want that color paint then let it dry. Tape over what I just painted (after it dries) and paint rest of bike the other color?

    Should I wait until I've painted on both colors to clear coat or clear coat each one as it drys before I paint the other color.

    Thank you

  • #2
    well if you are painting over paint then scuff it up a little with sandpaper 220 grit, 2-3 coats of primer and then paint it what ever color you wish but 2 coats min.

    So you want to paint it 2 toned? there are a couple of ways. paint it all one color than then tape off what you don't want painted and shot it with a couple of coats. remove the tape when the paint is still tacky but if you are doing 2 tone theen it is going involve wet sanding.

    Personally I would go one color and then decals because I suck at wet sanding.

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    • #3
      Since I just finished painting my Mustang, I'll throw my two cents in. If the original paint is in good shape, you should be able to paint right over it. However, you should use a sealer primer anyway to avoid any possible reactions between the different paints which may not show up until after the new paint has been on the bike and had a chance to gas out for a while. I would personally scuff the old paint/primer with 400 grit as it still leaves enough "bite" but will give you a smoother finish. With the basecoat/clearcoat systems you only need enough color to give you complete saturation. The clearcoat is what you will wet sand and polish out, so you will probably want at least three coats for insurance. If you are going to two-tone it (similar to the LeMans stripes on my Mustang) you would be best off masking the areas that will be painted the second color. After the first color has dried enough to mask (the paint spec sheet should list these times) completely cover the first color and apply the second. By doing this, you will get an even level to the two colors so when the clear is applied, they become seamless. Also in the paint spec sheet for the clear you are using, it should have a time window that the clear can be applied. If you wait too long, you will have to scuff the color coats before application or the paint won't chemically "bond" properly and may peel or flake. When you finish and the paint is dry enough to polish (again the paint spec sheet will tell you) you can remove any orange peel by wet sanding with 1000 grit to level the surface. Move to a 1500 and 2000 grit to remove the scratch marks and use coarse and medium compounds with a wool buffer pad moving to a fine polish and foam pad to finish. Use a hand glaze (with no wax) to remove the swirl marks and wait the appropriate time (again on the spec sheet but usually about a month) to let the paint finish gassing out before applying a final wax. It's all about prep and patience. Hope this helps.
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      • #4
        personally i would have gone with a single stage paint if you are not a professional like myself. i used a ford metallic blue. you will find polishing all those curves is a pain. good luck


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