[yngveny]

Just saw the youtube videos by SCUDMAN, he makes it look real easy.
Great help to anyone who want to change their own tires.

[The CyberPoet]

A few thoughts:

If you're doing your own tire mounting, you deserve a chain alignment tool too... Either something like the cheaper MotionPro unit, or like the pricey (but useable) Profi Laser alignment tool (which is what I use). If you look at how the Profi laser works, you might be able to figure out a much cheaper alternative at the local hardware store to do the same thing with any laser-level with a flat machined surface just below the laser-output.

If you use the balancing beads solutions (any brand), you need to make sure you use their matched tire valve cores, because the beads can clog standard valve cores from the backside. Additionally, you should check the inside of the tire to make sure it's perfectly smooth (some brands, like the Macadams & the Z6 fronts, typically have ridges or other shapes formed into the inside of the tire that will keep the beads from moving freely). I never put much stock into the bead-solution myself because of my beliefs in how physics works (i'll stick to standard weights, thanks), but some guys swear by them...

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[thetable]

I'm using the Dyna Beads in a ridged tire (PR2), and they are performing just fine. They seem to have no troubles jumping the little ridges inside the tire to end up where they need to be. I have used lead weights before going to the Dyna Beads, and other than the beads costing a little more, I have no desire to go back to lead. Filtered cores, well, I'm a little over 7000 miles without them, no clogged valves yet, and in thinking about it, a bead would have to be dead set on ending up in the valve stem to end up there. The only way I can think of one even getting in there, would be a locked tire, and even then, as soon as the wheel rotates, it would drop out.

[ATOMonkey]

I used regular old lead weights, but the dyna beads still intrigue me. Maybe next time...

Alignment is just a matter of patience, and lots of measuring. I do have an idea for my own laser alignment tool as well. I probably won't get to that for a while, since I haven't been working any OT lately. Cash is kinda thin. Doing the fishing line alignment method with daylight is a whole lot easier than trying to do it at night in a marginally lit garage. I had 24/32 on both sides of the front tire, and it was dead nuts on front to back as well. Looks pretty good.

CP, I have a question for you though. Since my bike is lowered, should I still check chain slack to the same 1.0" 1.4" tolerance? More...Less?

[The CyberPoet]

CP, I have a question for you though. Since my bike is lowered, should I still check chain slack to the same 1.0" 1.4" tolerance? More...Less?

What's your owner's manual say is the right amount of slack for your year/model? Shoot for the high-end of that using their way of measuring it (i.e. - 98+ says 0.8 - 1.2" while the rear wheel is dangling from the centerstand and unsupported, so I always shot for 1.1", even after swapping to the marginally longer Ohlins shock).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[ATOMonkey]

Put 150 miles on the bike this weekend with zero issues. Love the way the new tires ride. Sooooo much better than those old turds. They even handle the occasionally unintended gravel road pretty well...