Ad Widget



No announcement yet.

bleeding front brakes issues...

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • bleeding front brakes issues...

    Just disassembled, cleaned & reassembled the front MC & both calipers on my '95 750F Kat. New pads & braided SS lines ones too...

    I cannot get it properly bled, lever is super spongy & travels almost to the grip. I bought a mityvac brake line bleeder and have cycled through what seems to be a quart of fluid & still there is a steady stream of bubbles from each bleeder. checked for leaks but it's all dry & tight.

    Is there something I'm missing here, or are these front brakes just hard to bleed? Is there a trick you guys use the help this along?

    I've bled lots & lots of brakes on different bikes but this one is giving me fits!!

    Bought the bike as a project and the front brakes were all gunked up with nasty fluid so never really had a good baseline as to what they should feel like.

    All suggestions welcome...

  • #2
    The fact the lever isn't travelling all the way to the grip suggests you're getting there, did you make sure there is no air trapped in the master cylinder before moving onto the calipers? I had air trapped when I last did mine, if I pulled the lever normally no bubbles came out, if I pulled it to the bar and let the spring flick it back hard I got air coming out, repeated this until no bubbles were in the cylinder then bled the callipers. No idea if I was doing something wrong either as I'd not had this happen bofore but it worked
    Also check there are no highpoints in your new lines that air could be trapped in, check there's no leakage from the master cylinder dust seal or from the banjo bolts and be sure to have used new copper washers on all of them too.

    Did you change the lines for a twin line setup direct from the master cylinder?


    • #3
      When I put on new lines, I had to bleed forever too. It'll get there. SS lines are a nice improvement over stock. Maybe let it sit a day or two and let the air bubbles week there way up to the master cylinder, and crack the connection there open when squeezing the lever
      1998 Katana 750
      1992 Katana 1100
      2006 Ninja 250

      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles


      • #4
        Thanks for the responses... I'll double check all the connections again & yes, new copper crush washers all around...

        I replicated the stock lines, made up three new SS ones & reused the splitter.


        • #5
          As you've kept the join in place would be sure to bleed the left caliper first and have the bike on the side stand so the join too is at a least a bit of an angle so if there is trapped air it seep up to the cylinder. Other than that running out places air can be left...