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I Need help with rear the brakes. bleeding I think???

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  • I Need help with rear the brakes. bleeding I think???

    I tried to change my rear brake pads and I have no clue what I'm doing.

    And sure enough I screwed something up with the very 1st bolt I loosened.

    I accidentally loosened the brake line connected to the caliper a little. And when fliud came out I quikly tightened it back up.

    So from what I read somewhere, I now need to bleed the back brakes because there might be air in the line.

    WTF I don't know why I thought I could do this easy nothing ever is on my Katana

    I decided now I will have a shop put my brake pads on it is only $60.
    But I have to get the brakes working 1st because it will cost alot more I'm sure, Because they would have to remove the fairings now to fix it.

    So I unscrewed the brake line connected the caliper and pumped the brake.

    Some fluid came out of the line, but the master cylinder is still full and wont empty out.

    How do I fix this. there are only a few nice days left to ride.

    Is there something else I need to do to empty the line?

    What do I have to do to get pressure back?

    thanks
    Live To Ride, Ride To Live.

  • #2
    90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

    Originally posted by Badfaerie
    I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
    Originally posted by soulless kaos
    but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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    • #3
      that doesnt help me so keep that comment to yourself

      I tried to read the manual and the only one available on here is not for 2006 600 and stuff does not look the same to me
      Live To Ride, Ride To Live.

      Comment


      • #4
        Have you ever worked on brakes before? Do you understand how they work?



        If not, then you need to FOLLOW THE MANUAL and also gain a fundamental understanding of how braking systems work.

        90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

        Originally posted by Badfaerie
        I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
        Originally posted by soulless kaos
        but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

        Comment


        • #5
          The manual in the Wiki should work for all bikes 98 - 06

          You definitely should not loosen the brake hose connection, there is a separate bleeder plug on the caliper.

          Nice write-up on bleeding here:
          http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.p...brake+bleeding
          2002 GSXF 750

          Comment


          • #6
            This might help you.

            [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU[/ame]


            Tighten the line back up nice and snug. Top off the fluid in the reservoir and cap it. If you don't want to get fluid everywhere, get a piece of tube for the fluid to run into then put that into a spare empty bottle. DO NOT REUSE FLUID THAT YOU HAVE BLED OUT. The bleeder is the weird looking one with a hole in the top. Use the box end of a wrench, as it will be harder for you to strip the bolt, as it seems you aren't wrenching alot. put the box end over the bleeder, then put the hose ontop of the nipple looking part. Pump your brake up and down a few times, then hold it down. While still holding it down, open the bleeder and let fluid out, then you will feel the peddle bottom out. Still holding it down, close the bleeder then pump up again open, bleed, close pump and repeat until you are done. Be sure the reservoir does not go empty, or you will suck in air and have to start all over again.
            You are done when there is a good pedal feel and no more bubbles. I like to bleed a few more times after no bubbles just to be sure.

            This should give you a good idea of how to change the pads.

            [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ju1rZvvwijA"]1991 Katana Rear Brake Pads - YouTube[/ame]

            I'm not saying that this video is the bible, but you can see what you need to do.

            Be sure you ad caliper slide grease to the slides. (those are the two rods that the pads ride one) you can get a small tube for like 2-3 bucks at any auto parts store.

            You need to push the pistons back into the caliper to account for the additional material on the new pads. Use the olds pads to push them back in gently with a c clamp. Never use the new pads to do this. Never use a clamp of pliers or anything directly on the piston, you will damage it. Use the old pads that you will be throwing out anyways. Do not push the piston too far in, you can do some and try, see if it's enough and worse case you can do it again and push a little more.


            Both of these things are very easy to do, but can be intimidating the first time so just read and watch what you can and take your time. When you are done you will both save money and you will now have a new skill and knowledge.

            Brian
            Last edited by venturesomerite; 10-09-2011, 12:41 AM.

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