Brake Upgrade

[LS6TT]

Are there any performance brake upgrades for the pre 98 that come from another model bike?

[Black_peter]

I replaced my master cylinder with an 04 GSXR item off ebay.. it was a good upgrade.

http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=41107#41107

[LS6TT]

what was needed to install it simple bolt on, or did you have to use the clip ons?

it take all the same hoses?



anybody change out there rotors and calipers without major modifications, some it not a issue, but not trying to pull a waltari here..LOL

[Black_peter]

The GSXR equipment is 100% bolt on..
I had the GSXR MC instaled with the stock handle bars.
Calipers are going to be modification only.
Unless you find a bike that uses the same fork lower and the same wheel. In that case they probibly use the same caliper.. If you perform the same upgrade as I did

http://home.grandecom.net/~pyds/brakes.htm

You will see a vast improvment in performance.
I haven't even upgraded the pads.

[LS6TT]

awsome link thank you!!

[The CyberPoet]

Before you go throwing money at a replacement master cylinder, ask around about those who have been on my bike -- it stops like a race ducati. The combination used:

EBC HH-compound pads all around (about $75 for all)
New caliper piston seals (about $28 for all)
SS brake lines all around (about $150 for front & rear)
Castrol GT LMA brake fluid (about $6 a liter)

Even after I warned Keith (SpecialK) about them being grabby, he was totally amazed by them. Two finger braking, three finger easy stoppies if you care to (I don't).

A few other tips:
SpeedBleeders make bleeding simple and painless.
Rebuild your calipers when you replace your pads, and replace your caliper piston seals at this time. Basically, it's a disassembly and very thorough cleaning.
Brake lines need to be replaced every 4 years, esp. OEM brake lines.
Brake fluid needs to be replaced every other year, every year in high humidity environments. Using Castrol GT LMA or Valvoline PowerSynth lets you start with clear brake fluid -- so you can see any contamination very easily (brake fluid yellows, browns or becomes murky with water contamination, and all brake lines allow some humidity penetration over time).
Be VERY CAREFUL the first 100 miles after swapping set-ups. There simply is no reasonable way to warn someone how much the braking grab will change from stock.
If you use the EBC rear pads, remove the stock brake pad shims before installing them.
all brake pads are rated by how high the coefficient of friction is; G is 45 - 54.9% grab-rate; H is anything higher than 55% and varies highly between brands (e.g. - some HH are 60%, some are 85%; EBC is on the very high end of grab). The first letter represents the rate when the brakes are cold, the second when they are hot. Stock pads are rated GG.

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[LS6TT]

So you didnt change your master cylinder or anything uh?

How hard was it to rebuild the pistions and what did you use to clean them up?

[Black_peter]

New caliper piston seals (about $28 for all)

For both calipers??
Wow from who?
I went with Bike bandit because they were 1/2 of Ron Ayers...

[The CyberPoet]

New caliper piston seals (about $28 for all)

For both calipers??
Wow from who?
I went with Bike bandit because they were 1/2 of Ron Ayers...

I don't honestly recall -- possibly my local dealer (I do get a discount). It was around $11 per caliper, if I recall correctly. I suspect the pre-98's may be more expensive, in part because the pre-98 has different piston designs (98+ has only two pistons per caliper, front and back).

How hard was it to rebuild the pistions and what did you use to clean them up?

It was a bit of a PIA, but it was mostly time. I got some green scotchbrite pads & some 1200 grit emory cloth, drained all the old brake fluid into a pyrex dish, and added fresh fluid, then layed the calipers into there. Using a bicycle foot pump and a snipped off piece of vacuum cap, I created the compressed air source to push out the pistons. Once out, the rest is easy -- toothbrush to the inside of the calipers, rinse (brake fluid), drain then spray out with brake cleaner and lay back into the brake fluid (good time to replace the bleeder screw with the speed bleeders is before you drop the calipers). Take the pistons, pull the seals (fingers, no tools needed), clean the pistons to shiney again -- use as little abrasion as possible (minimize scratching). Once clean, put on the new seals and reassemble into the calipers in the brake fluid. Assemble back on the bike (in my case, with the new brake lines and new EBC HH pads). Repeat for next caliper... then bleed the hell out of everything (sidestand when doing the left front caliper because of the splitter bar over the front wheel fender).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

I don't honestly recall -- possibly my local dealer (I do get a discount). It was around $11 per caliper, if I recall correctly. I suspect the pre-98's may be more expensive, in part because the pre-98 has different piston designs (98+ has only two pistons per caliper, front and back).

That's right.. so I paid the same but X2

Once clean, put on the new seals and reassemble into the calipers in the brake fluid. Assemble back on the bike (in my case, with the new brake lines and new EBC HH pads).

NOTES:
As we (at least LS6TT) is talking Pre98 here

Don't forget the o-ring that goes between the caliper halves.
In fact don't forget to seperate the halves!!
Two words "tooth brush!"
Clean the pins that hold the pads in place.
(these get grungy!!)
Blue locktite!! Not Red!

[The CyberPoet]

Don't forget the o-ring that goes between the caliper halves.

That should be part of the caliper seal replacement kit.

Two words "tooth brush!"

You may find that a toothbrush is sufficient -- or you may find it isn't. Try to use whatever you can that won't scratch the metals involved but will remove any build-up off the surface

Clean the pins that hold the pads in place.
(these get grungy!!)

And don't forget to lubricate them (yes, there really is such a think as brake grease -- it's a very high temp grease for the pins that carry the pads). You should be able to find brake grease in little squeeze packets at most auto parts stores for $1 or less. My pins on my 3 year old bike (at the time) were pretty nasty, and I ended up having to scour them with scotchbright to get them clean (toothbrush and brake cleaner weren't sufficient).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

Don't forget the o-ring that goes between the caliper halves.

That should be part of the caliper seal replacement kit.

Yes but remember to get it if you don't order a kit..
(parts were cheaper for me individually)

Clean the pins that hold the pads in place.
(these get grungy!!)

And don't forget to lubricate them (yes, there really is such a think as brake grease -- it's a very high temp grease for the pins that carry the pads). You should be able to find brake grease in little squeeze packets at most auto parts stores for $1 or less. My pins on my 3 year old bike (at the time) were pretty nasty, and I ended up having to scour them with scotchbright to get them clean (toothbrush and brake cleaner weren't sufficient).
=-= The CyberPoet

I chucked mine up in my drill!! Got 'em nice and shiny!
You might be able to talk your local auto parts place out of a
sample sized packet of Brake Grease..

[LS6TT]

this is a great thread, thank yall very much!!

[tylerc]

Sticky worthy? i think so...

[LS6TT]

gotta agree