Tweet
It sounds like trere are 3 or 4 different guys telling you to go 12 different directions.
STEP 1: If everything is still assembled squeeze the brakes HARD and watch the calipers and pads for movement. With enough pressure, calipers will distort and open at the bottom. This is normal for extreme brake pressure. What you need to look for is pads squishing under the pressure. The caliper will break in half before the pads can be compressed. I have had several cars&trucks that seem like a bad master or line but are actually substandard pads, OR pads soaked in fluid. If the pads squish more than a couple thousandths (.005") they are junk.
Now to check for bad parts:
*************DON'T PINCH LINES******************
You need to find a way to plug lines starting at the master
plug the master and pump it up--it should get ROCK HARD and should be that way the next morning if you leave it that long.
If it's good, move on to the next spot. With the double lines you have, you should be able to use the old banjo bolt to hook up one line at a time--if you still have the bolt.
I don't like speed bleeders and vaccuum pumps--they only work if your brake system is working properly -- if you have a bad seal in a master or caliper they will suck air in when you let off and that makes it harder to spot a leak.
The single best way is to gravity bleed untill most of the air is out, then have a friend help you bleed it the old-fashioned way
(pump 'em up, squeeze handle, open bleeder, close bleeder, let off,) and repeat
Gravity bleeding also will indicate if the parts are good (no flow=bad part or clog)
BTW I am an ASE master tech, just so you know I'm not full of it.
Also, you can put a bungee or hose clamp on the handle to hold pressure on the system to find a slow leak
STEP 1: If everything is still assembled squeeze the brakes HARD and watch the calipers and pads for movement. With enough pressure, calipers will distort and open at the bottom. This is normal for extreme brake pressure. What you need to look for is pads squishing under the pressure. The caliper will break in half before the pads can be compressed. I have had several cars&trucks that seem like a bad master or line but are actually substandard pads, OR pads soaked in fluid. If the pads squish more than a couple thousandths (.005") they are junk.
Now to check for bad parts:
*************DON'T PINCH LINES******************
You need to find a way to plug lines starting at the master
plug the master and pump it up--it should get ROCK HARD and should be that way the next morning if you leave it that long.
If it's good, move on to the next spot. With the double lines you have, you should be able to use the old banjo bolt to hook up one line at a time--if you still have the bolt.
I don't like speed bleeders and vaccuum pumps--they only work if your brake system is working properly -- if you have a bad seal in a master or caliper they will suck air in when you let off and that makes it harder to spot a leak.
The single best way is to gravity bleed untill most of the air is out, then have a friend help you bleed it the old-fashioned way
(pump 'em up, squeeze handle, open bleeder, close bleeder, let off,) and repeat
Gravity bleeding also will indicate if the parts are good (no flow=bad part or clog)
BTW I am an ASE master tech, just so you know I'm not full of it.
Also, you can put a bungee or hose clamp on the handle to hold pressure on the system to find a slow leak
89 kat 750 turned kat 1157
Comment