[Jax]

Also, check the date on the brakelines, if you can't read it then the lines should be replaces. The general rule in the tech world is 5 years, if the date of the lines are 5 years old or older then replace them. Mileage doesn't matter. Like when I bought my 93 the lines were original equipment, that is just asking for a big problem.

Does this go for the aftermarket stainless steel brake lines....I put Galfer lines in when I got my bike...should I do the 5 year count down for these also?

[ThAzKat]

Also, check the date on the brakelines, if you can't read it then the lines should be replaces. The general rule in the tech world is 5 years, if the date of the lines are 5 years old or older then replace them. Mileage doesn't matter. Like when I bought my 93 the lines were original equipment, that is just asking for a big problem.

Does this go for the aftermarket stainless steel brake lines....I put Galfer lines in when I got my bike...should I do the 5 year count down for these also?

That is for stock rubber lines, Galfer has a time frame and I know a few guys running Galfer that could give you the down low on that.

[Paladin]

I'll have to look at the lines and see if I can find a date on them. I was looking to switch to some Galfer lines next. Thanks for all the info and tips, I'm also going to look at getting seals for the next time I clean the calipers.

[ThAzKat]

I'll have to look at the lines and see if I can find a date on them. I was looking to switch to some Galfer lines next. Thanks for all the info and tips, I'm also going to look at getting seals for the next time I clean the calipers.

You can only go right with SS lines!! the rubber lines flex to much IMHO

[The CyberPoet]

The four to five year rule for brake lines applies to ALL brake lines for the Kats, SS-sheathed/Kevlar-sheathed/Titanium-sheathed, or regular lines, because the rubber still has to flex a certain amount each turn of the handlebars & each bump of the wheels, and the VOC's in the rubber evaporates over time. Thus, although SS-lines won't normally get "soft" through pressure expansion, the rubber inside of them still hardens up with age and can crack if not replaced in a timely manner.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[ThAzKat]

The four to five year rule for brake lines applies to ALL brake lines for the Kats, SS-sheathed/Kevlar-sheathed/Titanium-sheathed, or regular lines, because the rubber still has to flex a certain amount each turn of the handlebars & each bump of the wheels, and the VOC's in the rubber evaporates over time. Thus, although SS-lines won't normally get "soft" through pressure expansion, the rubber inside of them still hardens up with age and can crack if not replaced in a timely manner.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

thank you Cyber, I didn't want to say because I wasn't sure.

[89katana750]

I am also in need of rebuild for the reason that my pistons don't come out smoothly and it is because of the dirt (they are filthy!). Palidin didn't replace some of the seals. Is it necessary to replace them everytime you do a rebuild? If they are shot then obviously yes, but if they look and feel ok can it be acceptable to leave the seals? Except the o-ring for the fluid?

[The CyberPoet]

I am also in need of rebuild for the reason that my pistons don't come out smoothly and it is because of the dirt (they are filthy!). Palidin didn't replace some of the seals. Is it necessary to replace them everytime you do a rebuild? If they are shot then obviously yes, but if they look and feel ok can it be acceptable to leave the seals? Except the o-ring for the fluid?

Factory manual says replace them any time you are going to move the pistons backwards into the bores (i.e. - new pads, caliper rebuild). My opinion is that it depends on their condition and age, but that they should be replaced at least every 4th year just like brake lines. Since the seals normally come as a complete kit (cheaper than buying a couple individually usually), there is no sense in not replacing all of them at the same time if you are going to replace any of them -- and if your pistons are binding because of build-up at their leading edges, then odds are that build-up is also tearing up the seals as they move back and forth -- so if you're going to do a complete rebuild, do it right and replace them. A $12 seal kit is worth your ability to stop, right?
Anyway, at the front calipers, the seals are only the piston seals. At the rear, there is an extra seal between the caliper halves.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Paladin]

I'm going to get new seals and brakelines next. At the time we did brakes, we took everything off to check it out and clean them up. Everything was in really good condition, beside the pads and the fluid it self. Also at the time, I did not have a new seals kit on hand, but we looked them over close and they all looked great. So I agree on replacing them, but at the time I did not have one. Replacing the fluids, new pads, and cleaning them up alone I've seen improvement.

[89katana750]

Where did you find the price for the seal kit?

[Paladin]

Have not priced that yet...

[The CyberPoet]

Where did you find the price for the seal kit?

Either my local dealer or RonAyers.com -- but that was for the 98+. I remember seeing something about how they were more expensive now for the pre-98's. I remember working it out and seeing that because of shipping, it was just as cheap to order them locally at the stealership than order them from RonAyers.com (and my stealer gives me a 10% discount for frequent customer bias)

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Yellow]

I got my rear caliper rebuild kit from Special K, for a good price... That was the kit with the pistons.

I then went and bought another used caliper from the local dealer, since the bores in mine were really bad... The bores were good in the one I got but one of the pistons was a bit rusty - but with the rebuild I've got a good-as-new rear caliper...

Beware of used calipers that have been laying around for a long time, they could have some bad problems with corrosion!

[KSKat]

I just installed a new set of Galfer lines and rebuilt the calipers, front and rears on a 98+. My problem is I can not get the brakes to bleed completly. I started with the left hand side farthest away from the MC and then to the right. I have tried the old fashioned pump them up and open the bleed screw approach for days upon end. The brakes have about twice as much play in them as they should. I have tried the rubber band on the brake lever over night. I just went and bought the mityvac to see if that would help. I can keep a constant vacuum but when opening the bleed screw I get constant soda pop type bubbles like I have an air leak.

If I had a leak that bad would I not see the fluid when applying the brakes with the bleed screws closed if I did it enough? Also could it be leaking around the caliper fluid seals? Thought I did this correct, it was pretty straight forward. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.

[Yellow]

Not sure that this is your problem, but have you tried to bleed the master cylinder? There might be some air trapped in there (hard to get out with normal bleeding because of the location)...

I do it by pumping the lever a few times and keep it fully engaged, then I open the banjo bolt (connecting the line(s) to the master cylinder) for half a second to let air/fluid come out, then close the bolt and repeat the procedure a few times... Then bleed the calipers again (and make sure you have enough brake fluid in there while you're bleeding!).