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  • Fork seals

    OK I know the plot, but what are the surpises?

    I've got all the tools lined up for dissassembly
    (I hope)
    I'm making my own seal driver.
    ($66 for what???)
    Seals should be in at the dealership today or so.
    ($29 no shipping not bad)

    But what is the fly in the ointment??

  • #2
    I'm about to replace mine soon too, so keep posting your experiences...
    - Samuel

    My 1988 Katana 600

    Comment


    • #3
      Get the new copper crush washer for the bottom of the fork that holds the rod in place if you are going to disassemble your forks completely.

      You will need to do this if you want to use the upper tube to yank out the fork seals - cause if you don't take the damper bolt out from the bottom the fork wont come apart - sound familiar anyone!? HAHA

      Have your fork oil height measuring tool ready - I generall use a suction tube with a stopper (generally a vice grip clamped to a copper tube) set for the height of the oil from the top of the tube.

      Oh take your time pouring the oil back into the fork when you are adding the new oil - it needs to settle.

      uhm...anymore questions pop up - ask.

      Good luck. It's pretty simple.

      You might want to consider putting in tapered roller bearings on the steering stem while you have the forks out....
      Squidbusters.com Admin

      Comment


      • #4
        Great!!! another thing to buy...

        Wife: "what are all these little boxes coming in the mail??"
        Me: motorcycle parts..
        Wife:" they come every day, how much are you spending??"
        Me: wanna snuggle???

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm glad I have noone to answer to for all the little boxes I've been getting in the mail lately ! I wanna hear how it goes , I might have to do this this year .
          I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



          Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

          Comment


          • #6
            While you have the forks apart get the strut imulator and springs/ set for your size from racetech.
            http://www.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...pringType=Fork
            I know just more money but it is worth the investment especially if she wants to ride with you.
            TDA Racing/Motorsports
            1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
            Who knows what is next?
            Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
            Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Black_peter
              Great!!! another thing to buy...

              Wife: "what are all these little boxes coming in the mail??"
              Me: motorcycle parts..
              Wife:" they come every day, how much are you spending??"
              Me: wanna snuggle???


              '92 Kat restoration/mod project

              Comment


              • #8
                THAZKAT
                Recommended Spring Rate: n/a kg/mm(use closest available)
                Stock Fork Spring Rate (measured): kg/mm(stock)
                No Spring Series available for your bike.
                Please call technical support (951)279-6655 for help.

                Hmmm

                So I got the froks cracked.. seals arn't in yet..
                Man this is taking forever..

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by floxera
                  Originally posted by Black_peter
                  Great!!! another thing to buy...

                  Wife: "what are all these little boxes coming in the mail??"
                  Me: motorcycle parts..
                  Wife:" they come every day, how much are you spending??"
                  Me: wanna snuggle???


                  No problem...
                  get rid of the wife

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    But she's so cute...
                    And a good cook..

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Black_peter
                      THAZKAT
                      Recommended Spring Rate: n/a kg/mm(use closest available)
                      Stock Fork Spring Rate (measured): kg/mm(stock)
                      No Spring Series available for your bike.
                      Please call technical support (951)279-6655 for help.

                      Hmmm

                      So I got the froks cracked.. seals arn't in yet..
                      Man this is taking forever..
                      this is the one you want, the other is for shock spring
                      http://www.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...pringType=Fork
                      TDA Racing/Motorsports
                      1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
                      Who knows what is next?
                      Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
                      Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        OK so I got ONE fork cracked...
                        The other rolled right over on me.
                        I'm convinced it was damaged before, as
                        I stripped it out way too easy.
                        Luckily the fork I was able to open was the one that needed the new seal. All that went easy, it is easier to get the pieces to fit together then you might think. The seal came out really easy. I didn't use a vise. Also pressing the new seal went well too. On the stripped screw for the other leg, there's nothing for it. I'll have to drill out the head and try to get the stub out. Messy but few worries really.
                        One suggestion I would make:
                        As I slid the lubed seal down the leg I pulled it back up for some reason, after doing so I noticed lots of dirt left behind. I was very carefull to clean the tube before installing the new seal. So I repeated this several times untill the seal left nothing behind. It might have made no difference but why introduce contamination to new oil?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sounds good. I'm probably going to give mine a shot this weekend. Just to clarify things, did you just change nr 7, or 5 also on the following fiche?

                          http://67.15.65.225/spst/1988%20GSX600F/24.htm
                          - Samuel

                          My 1988 Katana 600

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Whoh!!
                            Nr 5 is the seal!!
                            Nr 7 is just a dust cover.
                            If it is in good shape you dont need to change 7.
                            Technique I used:
                            Remove Nr 12 with an impact wrench.
                            Be careful because this is a shallow headed screw!!
                            Silly because it doesn't need to be.
                            Remove the fork cap and slide out the dampener adjuster.
                            Drain out the oil.
                            Remove Nr 8, 9, 10, 16, 17 and 18.
                            Or catch them as they fall out while draining :P
                            Carefully pry up on 7 (don't slip and scratch the fork) slide it off.
                            Pull Nr 6 out of the groove and remove.
                            Now here is what I did.
                            slide the fork tube in and jerk it out as hard as possible. The bushing (Nr 15) will drive out the oil seal (nr 5) only 4 or 5 pulls should do it.

                            Putting it back together is easy.
                            Clean everything well, and lube with new fork oil.
                            First drop Nr 11 into the fork and make sure the groove lines up with the drain screw.
                            Then assemble the top part of the fork.
                            This will hold parts 8,9 and 10 together so you can align the flat on part Nr8 with part Nr 11.
                            (this will make more sense once you see the parts)
                            Replace the screw Nr12.
                            Slide on the new oil seal and drive it untill you totally expose the groove for part Nr 6.
                            I used a section of PVC pipe, it drove in much easier then expected.
                            Refill and go..
                            You will need to pump the air out!
                            this is not so easy.
                            For some silly (again ) reason Suzuki sells oil in 475ml bottles and you need 491 (??) ml per fork.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks! I'll order the 5's too...
                              - Samuel

                              My 1988 Katana 600

                              Comment

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