Need advise about dealing with key broken off in ignition

[skasner]

I was trying to dig a rock loose to prop my bike up today using my key (dumb) and it broke off in the process.

I shoved the stub in the switch and borrowed a pair of safety glasses so I could get home. The ignition switch will turn, but I don't think I can get the key stub out so I'm guessing it needs to be replaced?

The broken key was my only one, and I have two helmets locked under my seat with no way to get them loose. Is there any way for my to get the seat loose without a key for the seat lock? Is there a way to order a key using the VIN#?


I'd like to believe I'm not the first to end up in this situation, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[rexazz2]

the key code is on the ignition switch but it requires removing the switch to get it
You could try blasting a jet of compressed air into the lock and that may pop up the key
Another option would be stopping by a lock smith to see if they can get it out , chances are you will need a real lock smith to cut you a replacement from your broken stub any how

[STULER]

Why would you use the most important key you have to dig a rock loose??? Well my advise is try and have a locksmith get the stub out and make a new one. they can do that.

[squiggy]

The ignition switch can be dismantled. I did it to find out why my ignition would not go into the lock position, worn tumblers. But as rex said you'll need to remove it.

And dito on going to a real locksmith. The guy I went to didn't even need a OEM blank to cut a key, he had compatible blanks.

[skasner]

Why would you use the most important key you have to dig a rock loose??? Well my advise is try and have a locksmith get the stub out and make a new one. they can do that.

Yeah, that's the question thats been burning in the back of my head for about 14 hours now. It was a bonehead move and I should have known better than to do it.

To elaborate, my wife and I rode to our hometown (~35 miles) to see the fireworks and eat some carvinal food. My plan was to dodge the family drama and for the two of us to just do our own thing and have some long overdue fun.

After breaking the key there was no way for the wife to ride because the helmets were in the way and stuck there. In fact, I could barely get my foot on the peg and shift myself. My grandmothers house was a few blocks away so she walked and I rode (at a rather akward angle) there to "re-group". My mom came out to rescue my wife from grandma's and brought me a pair of safetly glasses. They then followed me home (still riding at an akward angle due to the helmets in my way) and spent half the time yelling and beeping because mom thought I should slow down. (I'm 28)

I finally got home, then drove back to see the fireworks, but it certainly wasn't the fluid fun day I expected.

The ignition switch can be dismantled. I did it to find out why my ignition would not go into the lock position, worn tumblers. But as rex said you'll need to remove it.

And dito on going to a real locksmith. The guy I went to didn't even need a OEM blank to cut a key, he had compatible blanks.

It sounds like I need to break out the service manual and start pulling my ignition switch today. Are there any tricks to doing it? I hope I don't need to be able to remove the seat/plastics/etc. or disconnect the battery? (no key)

I swear I've spent more hours wrenching on this thing than riding it. As soon as I can afford to do so, I'm finding a gently used 2004~2006 GSX-R 750 and making like 20 ignition keys for it.

OK, I looked at my Haynes manual and the big PDF service manual that floats around on this forum. I can't seem to find anything on ignition switch removal. I'm a bit hesitant to just "wing it" so I'll hold off on advise. Maybe I'll find a way to get the seat off w/o the key in the meantime, though I don't have high hopes for that either.

[skasner]

*** UPDATE ***
I was able to get the seat off my bike by going in through the tail and pulling on the seat latch release cable. I now have a piece of wire tied off on the latch which i'm using to bypass the seat lock.



After another hour of tinkering around I pulled the ignition switch with a T-40 Tamperproof bit and a bunch of ratchet extensions.



There is a long cable coming off it and I don't see a clip on the switch-end of it. Where does this cable go to, and what do I have to take off the bike to get the ignition switch loose from the bike?



I could actually ride the bike now, but filling up with gas could be problematic without a key. That's alot of hex bolts to deal with at the pump, lol.

[Kreylyn]

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I could actually ride the bike now, but filling up with gas could be problematic without a key. That's alot of hex bolts to deal with at the pump, lol.

Under the tank is where that harness connects to the main harness for you to pull it all the way out.

There is an anti tamper screw so that if you are not able to open the lid of the gas cap, you will not be able to remove it at all with out breaking something. You would need a key, or destroy the lock to open fill the tank.

Krey

[skasner]

OK, I'm calling around trying to find out if the local dealers can get me a new key using my VIN, Ingnition Switch #, etc. I'm also asking them if they have a local locksmith that they use for situations like mine, or what their recommendation would be to get this resolved.

Either way I'll probably try to sneak down to the garage tonight to pull my gas tank and unplug/remove the ignition switch the rest of the way. Unfortunately I think my left tank bolt is stripped so that could be a project in itself. The right one stripped out awhile back and was replaced with heavy duty zip-ties, so I imagine I'll do the same with the left this time around. (I swear my whole bike is held together with epoxy, zip ties, and black duct tape. LoL)

I'll keep updating this thread as my saga unfolds, and in the meantime PLEASE toss my any advise you may have. I've never had to take this thing to a dealer for repairs yet thanks to the knowledge on this forum, so I'm hoping I'll be able to do the same this time around.

[Kreylyn]

OK, I'm calling around trying to find out if the local dealers can get me a new key using my VIN, Ingnition Switch #, etc. I'm also asking them if they have a local locksmith that they use for situations like mine, or what their recommendation would be to get this resolved.

Either way I'll probably try to sneak down to the garage tonight to pull my gas tank and unplug/remove the ignition switch the rest of the way. Unfortunately I think my left tank bolt is stripped so that could be a project in itself. The right one stripped out awhile back and was replaced with heavy duty zip-ties, so I imagine I'll do the same with the left this time around. (I swear my whole bike is held together with epoxy, zip ties, and black duct tape. LoL)

I'll keep updating this thread as my saga unfolds, and in the meantime PLEASE toss my any advise you may have. I've never had to take this thing to a dealer for repairs yet thanks to the knowledge on this forum, so I'm hoping I'll be able to do the same this time around.

Replace the nuts, washers, and bolts that are missing. They are inexpensive, and alot safer than using zip ties. Check with you dealer and online resources, but in generall.... less than $10 for all the fasters and parts for the tank mounting.

Krey

[skasner]

Replace the nuts, washers, and bolts that are missing. They are inexpensive, and alot safer than using zip ties. Check with you dealer and online resources, but in generall.... less than $10 for all the fasters and parts for the tank mounting.

Krey

The only zip-tied item that I would consider "questionable" is the right fastener of the tank. The threads in the hole are stripped out and I am not handy enough to drill/tap it for a larger diamter bolt. I suppose I'll use a smaller diameter / longer bolt with washers/nuts to fasten it when I put it back together this time which should be a safety improvement. I certainly don't want the tank to cut me in half if I get in an accident.

The rest of my zip-tie / 100MPH tape work is on the fairings. These are used wherever threads in the frame have stripped, or where the fairings have cracks or damaged mounting points. I know from experience that the plastics are the first thing to break/snap if the bike gets layed over, so I doubt bolts vs. zip-ties on the fairings have THAT much of a safety impact.

[JHILDE]

I have seen a broken key removed with a VERY thin welding rod. It was at an older guys shop that I swear could have disassembled the space shuttle with a pair of vice grips and a crescent wrench. He took the thin welding rod and put it into the lock, grounded the stick welder to the frame of the car, and then touched the rod to the other electrode on the welder for a split second. The rod welded itself to the broken key and he pulled it out. There is lots of room for error but it worked for him.

JHILDE

[skasner]

I have seen a broken key removed with a VERY thin welding rod. It was at an older guys shop that I swear could have disassembled the space shuttle with a pair of vice grips and a crescent wrench. He took the thin welding rod and put it into the lock, grounded the stick welder to the frame of the car, and then touched the rod to the other electrode on the welder for a split second. The rod welded itself to the broken key and he pulled it out. There is lots of room for error but it worked for him.

JHILDE

A co-worker recommendced I do something similar using epoxy. Both suggestions sound like a good way for my sloppy self to really screw things up.

I took my ignition to a local dealer yesterday afternoon and unfortunately it does not have any numbers on it. They said some do and some don't. The service guy said he wouldn't even think of trying to take it apart to get the key stub out, but that a locksmith should be able to do it.

I bought a key blank off them cheap and today I'll start calling locksmiths to find out if anyone will do it and how much they'd charge. A new ignition lock is ~$130 and a new lock set (all 3) is ~$250 at the local dealer. I'm hoping I can get fixed up through a locksmith for < $100.

In the meantime since the bike it torn apart I'm replacing some bits (fuel/air filters), re-wiring my LED accent lighting, and doing other odds and ends while I figure this all out.

[Fullmetal]

Hey man, I actually bought my Kat originally with a bit of the key stuck in it. The yahoo before me managed to break it off in there...

Anyway, the hard part is getting the ignition out of the bike. There are a few screws on the bottom of it that required a special bit (don't recall what it was, got the bit in a set for about 6 bucks). After that, you can use a paper clip to push the key out of the ignition. Pretty easy operation. Just remember exactly how everything comes apart. Of course, you should keep the stub and the broken off piece to have a locksmith forge a new one.

[skasner]

Well I already have the ignition out of the upper clamp, and i see there are two screws on top that i think would let me pull the thing apart. I just have been told by some people that if i do pull it apart springs and pins could go flying out and then i'll be screwed. Are they misleading me?

You say "you can use a paper clip to push the key out of the ignition" but i keep picturing a pile of tiny parts on my floor and me having to drop $130 on a new switch. I'm semi-compenent with this sort of stuff, so if it is a average-medium difficulty thing i may give it a whirl with some direction. If it is tricky/hard/risky i prefer to see if i can get a locksmith to do it for a decent price.

[skasner]

I tried a few locksmiths this morning and they all turned me away after examining my ignition switch. This left me feeling a bit defeated so after doing some chores and thinking a bit I decided to take a crack at it myself. Boy am I glad I did....

*** HOW TO REMOVE A BROKEN KEY FROM A 98-02 GSX600F ***

If you ever happen to break your only ignition key and end up with a piece of it lodged in your ignition switch, this is how you git-r-done. Some steps may be different for other years of the Katana, so I can only guarentee this will work for a 99 model like mine.

1. Things you'll need to get:
- Key blank
- T-40 Torx Tamperproof bit,
- 1/4" Drive Ratchet & some long extensions
- Phillips screw driver
- Plastic Wrap / Electricians Tape
2. The ignition switch assembly bolts to the underside of the upper triple clamp using two long bolts that go in from the bottom. For my bike, these bolts had heads that required a T-40 Torx Tamperproof bit that looks kinda like a star with a hole in the middle. I used some long extensions to go in from above the front fender and reach the bolts, this way I didn't have to remove anything from the bike to do it.


3. With the ignition switch out of the upper tripple clamp, you'll need to remove the gas tank to release the clip for the ignition switch wires.

4. Remove the two phillips head screws from either side of the cover on top of the ignition switch, slowly removing the cover with the switch firmly on a well lit table. The contents of this switch rest on a large spring. As long as you are slow and cautious nothing will go flying anywhere. Carefully remove the thin round guard that is on top of the cylinder.

5. Next, carefully remove the cylinder itself. The pins should not come out of the cylinder as long as you have the piece of key in it. You can wrap some plastic wrap or something around the cylinder for some assurance that things will stay where you want them.

5. Peel back your covering from the bottom couple of pin holders and if you look into the cylinder above and below them you'll see the sides of your key fragment. I took the pointy end of half a pair of scissors and with some persistence I managed to work the key up and out of the cyclinder far enough to get ahold of the end with some pliers. BEFORE YOU PULL IT OUT be sure to fully tape over and cover the cylinder to ensure the pins stay in place.

6. Take your two key fragments and your key blank to a hardware store and have them cut you a new key. Take the cylinder with you to test-fit the replacement key, then keep the new key in the cylinder. Carefully remove the tape and plastic covering the cylinder, and insert it into the switch in the position you noted when you first removed it.

7. Finally, replace the cover of the ignition switch, and install the ignition switch back into the upper tripple clamp. When you do so, add some red thread sealent which is what seemed to have been used on the bolts originally.

I'm headed to the garage to install mine now! Thank you for all of your help and support.