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Old 04-26-2008, 07:57 PM   #1
active1951
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Default 750 Katana - after valve adjustment

I adjusted my valves at about 3,000 miles recently. Bike is 2006 model, bought new. 15 valves were a lil tight and 1 was a lil loose. Now it starts quicker and runs smoother.

However, at about 6,000 rpm, plus or minus 500 rpm, the engine makes a rattlin noise. Does not matter what gear it is in. After 6,500 rpm is is fine all the way to 11,000 rpm. Under 5,500 is is quite too.

Maybe I am paranoid, but I do not remember it doing this before.

I also put Suzuki 10x40 oil in this time, before I used 20x50.

Any comments?

Last edited by active1951; 04-26-2008 at 08:07 PM..
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:24 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by active1951 View Post
I adjusted my valves at about 3,000 miles recently. Bike is 2006 model, bought new. 15 valves were a lil tight and 1 was a lil loose. Now it starts quicker and runs smoother.

However, at about 6,000 rpm, plus or minus 500 rpm, the engine makes a rattlin noise. Does not matter what gear it is in. After 6,500 rpm is is fine all the way to 11,000 rpm. Under 5,500 is is quite too.

Maybe I am paranoid, but I do not remember it doing this before.

I also put Suzuki 10x40 oil in this time, before I used 20x50.

Any comments?
20-50 thats thick. WOW. I havn't been in this bike game long. Maybe Im wrong I know cars 20-50 is like 100,000 plus engine. And a bike to close tol.
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:53 PM   #3
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Yea I would think that 20w50 is way to thick unless you live in an area that is realy hot all year round. As to the noise I dont think it is anything to worry about but Arsenic, BP or Cyber might have different thoughts. Odd that the noise is only in a very specific rpm range. Maybe a loose bolt /shrug
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:19 AM   #4
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Starting from the basics:

Doing a valve adjust. requires quite the removal of many parts so did you tighten everything back up to specs?

BTW, I run 20-50 oil year round for years, if you see the chart is rated to temps from 32F to over 100 something, perfect for my low elevation SoCal location and high mileage original engine.
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:04 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 2000kat600 View Post
Starting from the basics:

Doing a valve adjust. requires quite the removal of many parts so did you tighten everything back up to specs?

BTW, I run 20-50 oil year round for years, if you see the chart is rated to temps from 32F to over 100 something, perfect for my low elevation SoCal location and high mileage original engine.
ok, yeah I didn't know that ok thats kewl.
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:35 AM   #6
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... I think that I've just got dissed by rok start bars!?!?!?

...thought we'd start building da house from the foundation up!?
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:08 PM   #7
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... I think that I've just got dissed by rok start bars!?!?!?

...thought we'd start building da house from the foundation up!?
No dissing here. Just learning something new everyday. I havn't been in the motorcycle world not even a year yet. I been going to school and turning wrenches in the automotive world for about 6 years so Im still learning.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:17 AM   #8
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Being as the noise is in so specific an RPM range, it really sounds like a resonance type thing. Something else is wanting to rattle at that same frequency. I would go back through and make sure everything that you took off is nice and tight and like it should be with no wires sitting where they shouldn't be.
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:39 PM   #9
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My way-simple rule on 20w50 vs 10w40:

If you would burn your feet walking barefoot across asphalt at the hottest time of the day, you need to run 20w50. Otherwise, run 10w40.

Oh, and the rattle -- betcha it's something like the windshield or the gas tank. Get it to that RPM on an empty interstate, then take your left hand and start pushing against fairings, tank, windshield, gas cap, etc. If it suddenly disappears, you found it.

Cheers,
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Old 04-28-2008, 05:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The CyberPoet View Post
My way-simple rule on 20w50 vs 10w40:

If you would burn your feet walking barefoot across asphalt at the hottest time of the day, you need to run 20w50. Otherwise, run 10w40.

Oh, and the rattle -- betcha it's something like the windshield or the gas tank. Get it to that RPM on an empty interstate, then take your left hand and start pushing against fairings, tank, windshield, gas cap, etc. If it suddenly disappears, you found it.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
Yea, I thought the tank buzzed a lil, but I will apply pressure to see if I can find the rattlin. When I put everything back together, I was wondering about the tank and that crossmember or brace that goes across top of frame rails. It had 2 rubber bumpers on it, but I did not see where they would be used. Also does the tank bottom on the sides sit against the crossmember? I know the tank is mounted in rubber at the back, but it seems odd for it to be right up against the crossmember, but maybe that is normal. Pics in Suzuki manual are black/white and not real clear.

I had a new Suzuki 750 in 1981(I am old), with no bodywork, guess they call them nakid or standard bikes now, but it was easy to work on them, back-in-the-day.....

Thanks for all the input!
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