New Clutch Slipping

[OldSchoolCool]

I have just installed a brand new clutch in my 90' 600. I double checked all the torque specs to make sure everything was correct. I still have the same problem as i did before the new clutch, at very low rpm's when cold, or around 8 to 9 grand when warm, the clutch slips like crazy. I thought it was cable adjustment so i made sure the cable was just a little loose up top(im assuming that means there is no tention on the clutch cable and the clutch is fully engaged.) Still no dice. Im getting very frustrated with this problem and really dont want to take it to a shop unless i have to. My only other guess would be something with the basket. Any ideas in the right direction would help because im completely lost. Thanks.

[The CyberPoet]

Well, there are several issues that can cause clutch slippage.

The most common one is using motor oils that contain friction modifiers in them (such as API SJ/SL/SM rated car-oils, which do not supercede API SF/SG/SH for motorcycle useage).

The other possibilities include weak clutch springs (did you replace the springs when you replaced the clutch pads -- yours are potentially 18 years old!) and glazed clutch plates (was there any sign of burning on the clutch plates?).

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[BarMatt80]

would not soaking the clutch plates and friction plates over night in oil before installing them contribute to this initially? I'd check all linkage again. And i know when adjusting the cable, it is when you feel the first initial bit of resistance. You use the adjustment where the cable goes into the side of the engine, and then i think you use the lever adjuster to take up slack in the line and get i think a 1mm distance between the lever and the lever base. THis will ensure full engaugement and disengagement.

One thing you will need to learn fast and it will make your kat maintance or improvements go better and flawless, and that is: Cyber is right, always right, listen to him, buy things from him, and if you are interested in tires, he will say z6, and if you have questions you can always usually search by cyber poet.

keep us updated. welcome to the board. you will find everything you ever wanted and didn't want to know.

[HS2020]

There is a how to on this that I wrote up. Go look in the how to forums and find it. Follow the instructions and you will fix your clutch. I did this last year and it was a pain to figure out.

Now after you do the how to and you are still having problems then it could be your basket is shot among other things. If you get to this point PM me your number and I will call you and walk you thru it.

[hardlydangerous]

If the clutch basket fingers are worn or notched badly the clutch plates will hang up in the notches and no matter what you do as far as cable adjustment or springs etc will stop that clutch from slipping.
Pull it apart and check. If there are notches worn in the clutch remove the basket and file them down or have a machine shop remove them.

Then put it back together. But before you do replace the springs and check if the new plates are glazed already...replace them to (again) if they are. It sucks, I know... but once a plate has slipped long enough and is glazed, it's pretty much shot.

The down side to filing or machining the notches in the clutch basket fingers is, the plates now have a bit more room to move back and forth so the notches will come back again even faster this time. But it can get you another 5-10 years out of the clutch basket if you use better oil
I recommend Redline or Amsoil 10w-40 to 20w-50 depending on where you ride and how you ride.

BTW When adjusting the cable use a nickel...
Back the adjuster off on the handlebars so you have plenty of cable free play. Place a nickel between the perch and the lever and tighten the adjuster JUST so the lever touches the coin. Then tighten the lock nut.
That's it!
Oh and don't forget to lube that cable once a month or so with a cable spray or silicone spray. Sticky cables burn up clutches to.

[Special K]

Or........it could be as simple as the adjuster on the LEFT side, at the sprocket cover, needs adjusted PROPERLY.

Follow the manual.......I think it goes sort of like this:

Adjuster all the way in, top adjuster at the bar all the way in. Loosen 10mm NUT while holding flat screw in the middle (under that half dollar sized rubber cap). Now GENTLY turn the screw until you just barely start to feel resistance. Then back off at least 1/4 turn, max 1/2 turn. HOLD SCREW, tighten nut. Put cap back on.


THEN...........always remember this:
MAJOR adjustment down below, minor adjustment up top.

[blkpitbull]

Or........it could be as simple as the adjuster on the LEFT side, at the sprocket cover, needs adjusted PROPERLY.

Follow the manual.......I think it goes sort of like this:

Adjuster all the way in, top adjuster at the bar all the way in. Loosen 10mm NUT while holding flat screw in the middle (under that half dollar sized rubber cap). Now GENTLY turn the screw until you just barely start to feel resistance. Then back off at least 1/4 turn, max 1/2 turn. HOLD SCREW, tighten nut. Put cap back on.


THEN...........always remember this:
MAJOR adjustment down below, minor adjustment up top.

I agree, Mine slipped at full throttle once it past about 9000. It ended up being the exactly what Mr. K is explaining.

BTW I only soaked my discs for about 2 hrs before I put them in, and they were fine. These were put in later (like 2 1/2 years) after the adjustment above.