Katana of the Month - February 2008  Dane-Kat

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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
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Old 08-06-2006, 12:41 AM   #1
Join Date: May 2006
Location: pensacola, FL
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Default tools needed for a chain/sprocket change?

i'm still debating on weather i should spend the $270 to have my local shop do the chain/sprocket or if i should do it myself

the problem is i know i need some special tools (chain braker/press, stand and what else)

anyone have a basic price list of what it'll cost me in the specific parts tools? i'm sure i've got the others i need and would prefer to have the tools to do it in the futher over paying somone to do it... but i don't wanta spend a ton either :-/

so what tools exactly will i need and what will it cost aprox?

thanks again
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Old 08-06-2006, 01:43 AM   #2
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well you can cut the old chain off, so won't need a breaker. just a riveter, but the shop that did mine said the riveter he had was junk, and he used some hammer or something i don't know, all i know is that it is on and it isn't going anywhere. othere than a riveter, just standard sockets, wrenches and allen tools. and torque wrench.

i hope for $270 that includes the chain(xring) and sprockets(hardened steel back and chromoly front) well that is the rk/vortex chain combo. and install.
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:19 AM   #3
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$270 is a lot of money.

you NEED a rivot tool like this:


then a dremel tool is VERY handy to grind of the pin to remove the old chain.

a good torque wrench & a 1 1/4 socket. basically what you'll pay in labor you could buy the tools and do it yourself. if you haven't read my how-to look here.


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Old 08-06-2006, 08:38 AM   #4
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ya 270 is complete including the chain/sprocket kit and install... abot 100 for intall after all is said and done i belive he said after quoting me for the chain/sprocket kit

THANK YOU on the how to post... exactly what i was looking for... right now my biggest worry is that i don't have a stand... wonder if i can figure out how to suport everything w/ a jack stand... wish i'd kept my engine hoist at my place instead of sending it to my me-mas doh
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:53 AM   #5
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I placed a jackstand under my left rearset right on the metal bracket it bolts to and supported my bike when I was removing the engine like that. You could always use one jack on each side. Just go slow and make sure its going to lift it like you want....or you can try placing a 2x4 oe 3x5 on the jack head and lifting it from a flat point near the center of course that rrequires removing you belly fairing
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Old 08-06-2006, 09:44 AM   #6
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for the hundred bucks labor will cost you buy a rear stand. youll get use out of it later if you plan on doing more work yourself.

for me thats always been the case, when i can buy tools instead of paying labor i jump on it.
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Old 08-06-2006, 02:26 PM   #7
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ya that was my thoughts just want to make sure it's not going to be insane... the press is already $80 or so just wanted to make sure i wouldn't need anything else to expensive haha
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:53 PM   #8
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Get some rebar and stick it through the swingarm pivot hole , then use jackstands or cinder blocks to hold it .
I dremel through the sideplate instead of the pin . Just works easier for me .
You CAN peen over the master link pin with a hammer , but a riveter is SO much easier , and less chance you'll need to run and get another link because you FUBAR'ed the first one .
Other than that .... a torque wrench is good (I use mine like a breaker bar) , you'll need an 1 1/4" socket for the front sprocket , and those rear sprocket nuts may be on there REAL tight , too .
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Old 08-06-2006, 04:05 PM   #9
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got the tourqe wrench and pretty sure i've got the fatty socket will have to double check.

riviter i was planning on getting thanks on the rebar thing... sounds like an easy way to go. and much more stable

as for things on real tight... thats why i have a 3 foot pipe that slips over my 1/2" drive... had a few experiances w/ it on a 30mm axle nut where my 300 lb body had to JUMP on it to brake the thing loose doh..

thanks again guys
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Old 08-08-2006, 03:10 PM   #10
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just use a master link... no need to screw arount with riveting stuff.

some people will try to tell you they are not safe but i say . as long as you install the clip in the correct direction it is just as good as the rivet style link, and if you are still paranoid loop some safety wire around it.

if it's good enough for racers to use, its good enough for a katana. i use one on mine and i ride it like i stole it.
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