Gas Stabilizer...

[WildKat]

when i used it before...i asked the dealer about the recommended amounts, and b/4 i put it in, i filled up the tank completely with good, high octane gas, like 93 or 94, dumped in the stabil, then rode it home, and put it away. I just buy a new bottle every year..dont like takin chances with it..but thats just me. overly cautious i guess..

but I've heard others say that its better to dump it in, when the tank is nearly empty, then fill up with gas, and ride it home.

is it that much better to put it in after the tank is full, as opposed to being nearly empty ?

[Yellow]

My take on it would be that it would mix faster to an even solution if you put in the Stabil before you fill up the gas (by the agitation created by the gas flowing down into it).

Just my 2 cents...

[Haggisman]

I always put it in then fill up the tank, then drive home, makes sure it is well mixed

[WildKat]

makes sense ...but just never did it when the tank was empty..guess it just never occured to me...

[blkpitbull]

either way should be fine. Its got to go into the carbs.

[zleviticus]

Originally Posted by Haggisman

I always put it in then fill up the tank, then drive home, makes sure it is well mixed

agreed

[tzortn]

Originally Posted by Yellow

My take on it would be that it would mix faster to an even solution if you put in the Stabil before you fill up the gas (by the agitation created by the gas flowing down into it).

Just my 2 cents...

I agree with this. I did that with Stabil in my bike and whenever I use fuel injector cleaner in the cage.

[The CyberPoet]

Originally Posted by blkpitbull

either way should be fine. Its got to go into the carbs.

I'm for putting it in just before you top off, so it distributes more evenly. Personally, I also believe in topping off the tank after you get it into it's spot from a gas can, so the tank is absolutely chock full (takes about 5 minutes on a late model Kat because of the burping action) -- less air = less rust.

As for the blkpitbull's comment -- IMHO the carbs should be run dry and carb drains left open in most places where it snows (if it gets cold enough where you park to condense water, leave the drains open so water doesn't build up). The only exceptions should be in really dry areas (deserts), and if the bike will be run during storage occassionally.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[blkpitbull]

In all due respect, I never drain my carbs, or run them dry. I just put stabil in and ride the bike for a few miles. I have never had a problem after winter was over. But I do ride my bike some during the winter. And when I cant I start it once a week and let it run for a bout 5-7 minutes. But this may not work for everyone.

[jhugh]

Originally Posted by blkpitbull

...And when I cant I start it once a week and let it run for a bout 5-7 minutes.

I used to do that with various sports cars when I stored them for winter until a Porsche club tech told me it was a bad thing. There's several reasons:
You get a lot of condensation built up in the muffler and running the engine for 5-10 minutes (especially at idle) doesn't get it hot enough to evaporate the water - the exhaust will rust from the inside out.
If the engine doesn't get hot enough then you are accumulating condensation inside it too. That's very bad.
Wear happens when starting an engine. If it has been sitting for a while then the oil film protecting parts (until fresh oil can flow to them) has had a chance to dissipate. Oil in the passages has drained back to the pan. It's called a 'dry' start I believe. The more 'dry' starts you do the more wear.

His advice was to prep the thing for storage and leave it alone until spring.
If you ride it most likely it will get up to working temp and will be OK.