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Bandit / Katana chain adjusters

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  • Bandit / Katana chain adjusters

    Degrees of Difficulty

    * Easy,suitable for
    novice with little
    experience

    ** Fairly easy, suitable
    for beginner with
    some experience

    *** Fairly difficult,
    suitable for competent
    DIY mechanic

    **** Difficult, suitable for
    experienced DIY
    mechanic

    ***** Very Difficult,
    suitable for expert DIY
    or professional

    Degree of Difficulty - ***

    Ok, I wanted the Bandit chain adjuster design. IMO it's way better then the Katana. The problem is the Bandit chain adjuster has a different ID for the rear axle.

    Here's what I did.
    IMG]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb212/arsenic13_bucket/8c90_2.jpg[/IMG]



    I started with a set of stock Katana adjusters (I sell parts I had like 3 sets, but your adjusters will work), either pre or post will work, I used post. A stock set of Bandit adjusters I got on ebay. Here's what you need:


    (there are 2 of both p/n 61410-08F00 and p/n 61421-45000, but in the picture I just had room for 1)
    that's right when you get the stud out of the Katana chain adjusters, there in a hole in there that will work for the M8 x 1.25 Bandit screws. To get the studs out of the Katana chain adjusters, cut through the welds with a cutting wheel. If you look at the stud, it's welded on. Cut through that and then use a punch and hammer to just punch the stud out. Then use a bench grinder, or a grinding wheel on a die grinder to grind the face of the chain adjuster smooth. The stud in the Katana adjusters are also M8 x 1.25. Now with the studs out of the Katana adjusters it's really easy. Take the M8 x 1.25 nuts (I used the nuts that were welded into the Bandit adjusters, but any M8 x 1.25 nut should work) and JB weld them inside of the Katana adjusters, the JB weld is just a temporary hold, then nuts will be tack welded in place before they are used. I threaded the nuts onto a bolt, again M8 x 1.25, and pulled the bolt up to JB the nuts. With the nuts JB Welded on the inside of the Katana adjusters, they will be welded before use, you can now use all the Bandit parts with the Katana adjusters.


    This is a 98+ Katana microfiche, item #16 is the adjuster. Item # 18 is a M8 x 1.25 nut that will work.

    This is a Bandit microfiche. Item # 23 are the screws, item # 24 are the washers, and item # 22 are the plates.


    The difference between pre and post Katana adjusters:




    98+ Katana adjuster and pre 98 (pictured) measurement = 1 5/16" - 1.3125" (33.3375mm)


    Bandit adjuster measurement = 1 5/8" - 1.625" (41.275 mm)



    If you have any questions, let me know.
    Last edited by arsenic; 05-19-2008, 08:20 PM.

  • #2
    Do you think JB weld is going to hold those nuts? Unless the nut is wide enough to not turn (that is it is being captured by the sides on the yoke) those nuts must be welded. That was how Paul did his (Seqx34). I used hand made plates that are wide enough.

    There is IMO a real danger of the nut backing out.
    I can also see a worst case scenario of the adjuster nut spinning instead of the screw backing out and then you can't get the rear end apart.

    Sorry dude. Good post but that one detail blows it..

    Comment


    • #3
      I just JB welded them for now, they will be tack welded, should I change that? I think I'll go ahead and do that. Done, thanks for the heads up Peter.
      Last edited by arsenic; 01-25-2008, 01:23 PM.

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      • #4

        Comment


        • #5
          The nut is certainly welded in now, is BP happy

          Comment


          • #6
            Not usually.
            Just one less thing for me to say I told you so about..

            Comment


            • #7
              fair enough

              Comment


              • #8
                Oh and bless your heart..

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