My first problem..starter or relay?

[hukeedo]

Recently when i go to start my 99 kat 600, for the first time in the day, I hit the starter button and it cranks for a half a sec and then stops and i have to keep hitting the button till it catches. I am aware it is one of two things, the starter or the relay. Which does anyone think it most likely is before i spend a small fortune on hit or miss? after the bike finally starts, it will start like a champ the rest of the riding day. Just for the record, the battery is brand new and has been fully charged prior to installation.

[the wind]

it could also be the switch or just connections.

[steves]

Take the switch pod apart, clean it, and add some dielectric grease. Sometimes spiders like to move in there.

[Wild-Bill]

+1
First thing I thought of was corrosion/dirt in the starter switch.

[VampV]

And wasps too. My old 750 was 'finiky' on the start. I noticed some brown 'dust' on the bottom one day. I unscrewed it apart and lo and behold a mudwasp made a nice nest there. Cleaned it out and did the grease. Yatzee !!!

[hukeedo]

I have been dreading taking the fairing off to get to the starter but guess I will have to check all the connections and clean the switch. Is there supposed to be a cover on the starter itself because I can see the starter motor if I look down in there. If there is supposed to be a cover, then I'm thinking dirt is all over the starter and connections.

[canopr360]

Yup I believe is the starter...

[skshow289]

I'm having the same problem.

So far I've done the following:
- New battery
- Added engine ground right next to the main one on the back of the crankcase
- Added frame ground under the seat
- Inspected and/or cleaned all connectors
- Inspected and/or cleaned all fuseblocks
- Replaced all fuses

Thought I had it fixed the other night but went to start it up yesterday after the battery had been on a battery charger/conditioner all night and it does 1/2 to 1 full crank and then appears to "seize." Trying to start it again on the second or third try usually gets it cranking but this "seizing" thing shouldn't be happening in the first place.

I'm going to check the wires associated with the starter and will go ahead and disassemble the starter switch on the handle bars. Hopefully will find the REAL culprit soon! It's no fun meeting someone for dinner and not being sure you will be able to leave!

[woobie]

When my starter died if you tried to start it when it was quiet out you could very faintly hear a low growl from the starter.

Changing the starter isn't a hard job, just time consuming. If you do replace it yourself you can use just about any Katana starter. I put an 86 or 88 Kat starter on my 03 when mine died.

[skshow289]

I just wanted to report back on this...

My problems seem to have been fixed. If you don't want to read my ramblings below, my opinion of the causes of my problems was hydrolock.

I had multiple problems:

- I had my crank case fill with gas so I flushed the crank case with some cheap oil once to flush out the remaining "oil-gas soup mixture" in the oil cooler and then changed it with cheap oil once more for a final rinse, I then drove for about ~15 miles then changed the oil a third time to put the proper oil back in (went with Rotella T this time)

- The above is the result of my float valves not doing their job as well as the petcock failing to do its job too. I don't really have the time or money right now to buy a sync tool and 4 carb rebuild kits so I just rebuilt the petcock and will do the carbs later. Pic below is of the old petcock pieces (half of the small o-ring was missing)


- Every time I had starting issues there were a couple of factors present: crankcase was either full of gas (and i didn't know it yet), my airbox was full of gas and had leaked out onto the ground through the air filter. Basically, when there wasn't gas on the ground, she turned over fine when cold (as always; starting warm was never an issue). I rebuilt the petcock and gas leaks have been eliminated.

- I have had 3 out of 3 successful cold starts so far, one with the battery maintainer on all night, one without the maintainer but bike was in warm garage, and the third one this morning: the bike sat outside all night and she turned right over this morning at 6:00 A.M. in 45 degree weather (took a hell of a long time to warm up though).

SO...I think a combination of keeping fuel out of the engine when it isn't running and the electrical work I mentioned two posts above this one have solved my problems.

Hope this helps someone; I know I was near pulling hair out on this one!

EDIT: As mentioned two posts above....I did pull the starter switch off the handlebars to have a look inside and there was a couple of spider nests but not really anything in or near the the contact surface for the starter button. Cleaning it was still a great idea though.

[Ronmold]

I was having the same issue with hydrolock, 3 of the carbs were leaking gas. My float needles & seats look good, only 7 k on an '06. What I found was the o-rings that seal the brass needle seat into the carb body were all rotted & brittle. Thanks ethanol! I got some new o-rings at the hardware store as you can only get them in the kit with new needle & seat but that's $50 a piece! Hopefully that does the job.

[skshow289]

I was having the same issue with hydrolock, 3 of the carbs were leaking gas. My float needles & seats look good, only 7 k on an '06. What I found was the o-rings that seal the brass needle seat into the carb body were all rotted & brittle. Thanks ethanol! I got some new o-rings at the hardware store as you can only get them in the kit with new needle & seat but that's $50 a piece! Hopefully that does the job.

Thanks ethanol indeed!! I keep a bottle of Stabil Marine under the seat now and put a half ounce in every fill up. Third tank since all this madness began and still going strong.

[Ronmold]

Yes it was the needle seat O-rings that were leaking, not the needle tips themselves. Just $.69 x 4 and no more leaking gas. Now for the petcock rebuild.....