kat gsx600f gears get stuck

[llaverito80]

hey im new to the forum as well as a riding a bike recently i bougth a 93 gsx600f kat and after a couple of days gears start acting strange when i take off start going fine then i get to 2nd and is all good but then trying to get to 3rd gear the pedal shifter get really hard and doesn't want to move to 3rd and sometimes i have to drop it from 2nd to 1st and then go to 3rd and samething happen when im trying to get to 4th

pls somebody help with this

[92xjunker]

Oil level fine? Possible trans failure or clutch not releasing properly.

[arsenic]

I'm guessing you have a bent shift fork. Sorry, but unless removing the engine and splitting the cases is something you're familiar with, this is going to cost you major dollars.

[katanarider]

When I first bought my bike the guy told me he had similar issues. After getting the bike home and adjusting the clutch cable at the engine cover, I've not once experience the problem as he described it. Some times I have to ease out on the clutch lever while applying easy-lite pressure on the shifter to get it in to gear. You don't want to force the bike into gear or you'll bend the shift fork inside the engine. Also don't down shift into too low of a gear while rolling, such as when making turns. If you hear or feel the gear box spool up, thats a sign you've down shifted too low...at least for a Katana. Another thing you may want to try is a different brand / weight oils. I noticed a difference in the way mine shifts with Suzuki 4 cycle 10w-40 and Rotella T 15w-40. Just be 100% sure that its 100% safe for motorcycle wet clutches ! ! !

[arsenic]

Very true, a properly adjusted clutch may solve this issue. If it doesn't, that's a bummer, man.

[92xjunker]

I already said that....

[arsenic]

I already said that....

Yes you did sir, do you want me to bake you some cookies or something?

[92xjunker]

Don't want no fuckin cookie! pass a beer.

[katanarider]

llaverito80, the way I adjust my clutch is start by screwing the hand lever screw all the way in. That way you protect the soft aluminum threads on the purch. Then screw out the bolt on the front sprocket cover bit by bit until you get it where you want it. You'll probably want to make several adjustments by test riding in front of your house while in 1st gear. As you cruise in front of your house in 1st gear, rev the engine to make sure its not slipping/full lock. As you do so, pull the lever in and note when you start to feel the clutch slip/engine rev. Try to leave just a little more travel in the lever from the point where you think the clutch is fully locked as a precaution, maybe a inch extra release room in the lever travel. I once had my clutch too tight and it would slip at full throttle which is not good for longevity.
And as I said before, make 100% sure you have the correct engine oil. Automobil (Car) oil is not made for motorcycle wet clutches...and don't put any Slick 50 or any other automobile engine additive in your bike !!! = dead clutch !

[92xjunker]

How about follow the manual, the gap between the lever perch and the lever is exactly the thickness of a nickel (hint).

[katanarider]

How about follow the manual, the gap between the lever perch and the lever is exactly the thickness of a nickel (hint).

I don't know what he's talking about here, but I screw mine in as much as possible. That shitty aluminum perch will wear out around the bolt from my experience. I just screw mine in so the bolt head seats, that way there is no way it will wiggle around. Been like that for years now.

Anyway,
llaverito80, don't misunderstand me when I say leave a little extra room on the release. You want the lever out as much as possible when the clutch becomes fully locked.
That way you are sure the clutch is also fully engaged when you squeeze the lever=easy gear changes.

[92xjunker]

The manual states a gap measurement between the perch and lever, it is the thickness of a nickel.