[katanarider]

Once you start cleaning them, you'll tell yourself what needs to be done. If you come to a point where you feel uncomfortable, just return here to Katriders and we'll help walk you through from that point forward. But to address what you just asked...A regular tooth brush and a simple degreaser of any type should clean the outside/exterior bodies. If your left with a small stain, you'll think to yourself, what will clean that particular area. For example, if its rust, then try a rust solvent. I've seen a video on youtube were a guy used lemon juice with hot water to remove rust from carbs. As for the brush, a simple tooth brush will clean the aluminum body after a good soak. But if you need something with more scrubbing action, attempt a alternative chemical first and then a different brush. Brass brushes are softer than steel.

[RobertTravis]

...A regular tooth brush... Brass brushes are softer than steel.

Word & word....but any brush that fits where you need it to that is supple/soft enough to clean without scraping is fine. The key is to not mangle the brush by pushing too hard etc.

In my experience cleaning things, sometimes the chemicals or even pressure just isn't enough. Some things need gentle abrasion in order to get clean. Case in point, the carwash. Some of those touchless automatic pressure washer ones just don't get the car clean the same as if you washed it with a soft cloth.

[Seft]

If you come to a point where you feel uncomfortable, just return here to Katriders and we'll help walk you through from that point forward.

Cheers, I'm counting on it

I'll document my cleaning experiments too and post them up, might be useful to others who are coming at this from the same naive position I am!

[Tippon]

One bit that wasn't too clear was talking about drilling out a brass plug to get the carb bodies open, need to understand this part as it wasn't too clear from the pictures, drill, hmmm...

I've recently balanced my carbs, and there were no plugs on my bike. It's an '00 GSX600F UK version. I vaguely remember someone telling me that there were no plugs on the UK version, but it may just be that a previous owner had already drilled them.

[92xjunker]

Tup, heard the same, its a US thing.

[Seft]

So, if there are plugs (will find out tonight when I get the carbs off) is there actually an issue if I leave them in place. As I understand changing these would alter the emissions anyway so to get the bike through a UK MOT test they'd likely have to be set as they are anyway?

[92xjunker]

I doubt if they are going to remove the carbs and check, plus it's a way out of production bike. Without emission components. Do what you have to do to get it right.

[skjeflo]

Pretty sure the plugs were an EPA requirement at the time. Wouldn't want Joe Public to be able to adjust anything now, would we?

As for the carb rebuild kits, I used the proper equivalent to one of these sets (the proper one for your bike if...if...if...it uses the same carbs as the US version).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-98-06-Suz...zlwmiQ&vxp=mtr

[Seft]

Pretty sure the plugs were an EPA requirement at the time. Wouldn't want Joe Public to be able to adjust anything now, would we?

As for the carb rebuild kits, I used the proper equivalent to one of these sets (the proper one for your bike if...if...if...it uses the same carbs as the US version).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-98-06-Suz...zlwmiQ&vxp=mtr

They look the same but not sure if the US and UK bikes had the same carbs or not. Someone else had suggested K&L parts but they don't seem to have UK distributors and delivery plus inevitable tax hikes the price up. These are currently the cheapest option I've found here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Suzuki-GSX-600-F-02-2002-1x-Carb-Carburettor-Repair-Kit-/131818726732?hash=item1eb102254c:g:WEgAAOSwcvdXPG-q

Difficult thing is I can't find any reviews for anyone selling kits at a sensible price, so I've no idea if I'm gonna end up having to tear things down again because of poor quality seal/o-rings/float needle & float valve. I can buy what looks from the pictures like the same kit from a proper shop but at an extra Ž£9 or Ž£10 per kit. I'd be happy paying that if they were the genuine OEM parts but they cost even more!

Hmmm...

[RobertTravis]

Don't feel bad. Kits in the US are like $20-30 each so 9 squid a pop isn't bad in your neck of the woods.

Buy them when you're ready, tear one down and compare old components to new. You should be able to tell if they're right or not. Extra points if you use calipers to check sizes.

[Seft]

Don't feel bad. Kits in the US are like $20-30 each so 9 squid a pop isn't bad in your neck of the woods.

Buy them when you're ready, tear one down and compare old components to new. You should be able to tell if they're right or not. Extra points if you use calipers to check sizes.

Indeed I'll see how bad/good everything is first then go shopping, so far everything is pretty clean other than the bowls looking like something had been nesting in the bottoms near the drain plugs. Main gasket/seal between the bowl/float chamber definitely needs replacing. Hopfully I'll get more done today...

[Tippon]

So, if there are plugs (will find out tonight when I get the carbs off) is there actually an issue if I leave them in place. As I understand changing these would alter the emissions anyway so to get the bike through a UK MOT test they'd likely have to be set as they are anyway?

I got my bike in 2012, and the plugs haven't been removed while I've had it, so must have been missing since at least then. Apart from failing the first MOT (deliberate so we knew what work to do), it's flown through them all

[Seft]

Steady progress

Ok, so I'm at the point now where all I have a 4 trays with lots of bits in them and just need to clean everything up that I've taken out. I know I need to replace the main seal around the float chamber, all of the o-rings were making a snug seal and in fact everything I've taken out looks perfect no drying or cracking etc on o-rings and all the metal parts are pretty clean and not warped or seemingly damaged so a couple of questions:

1. Are there any of the o-rings I should just replace regardless of how they look?
2. The carb kits all include replacement float valves and the seat they go into but given the ones I have look perfect how can I tell if they need replacing, what would be signs they're wearing out etc? Do I need to measure any particular aspect of them?
3. Do I need to separate the carb bodies from each other for any reason, my Haynes manual says to avoid this if at all possible, I presume because fitting everything back together the right way would be a pain to do?
4. Other than lubing the choke plungers with a bit of WD-40 is there anything else that I should lubricate where spraying a load of cleaner might have removed what lubrication was there?
5. Would it be sensible to replace the throttle cables while I have the carbs off, they look fine at the ends but no idea of the condition of the cables inside the casing, no idea when or if they've ever been replaced?

[katanarider]

If you've pulled the float needle valves out of the socket, then you should at the very least replace those o-rings. They are most likely flattened from being enclosed all these years. They may look fine but they are not round any more. The needle points should not be deformed at all. Depending on the miles of the bike, it may be wise to just replace them, so you don't have to diassemble the carbs again. If you remove the Diaphragm slides, you'll have to source your own o-rings, so don't remove them. Don't ask me how I know
If you separate the carb bodies, one of the hoses that connects each of the bodies together is no longer available. I believe its the center hose, but I'm not 100% certain. Its been atleast a year since I cleaned mine, so which ever hose you can't find, thats it. That being said, its a simple fix however. Because its the same exact hose as the left and right hose (I believe), so just cut the one you can find to make it match.
Forget replacing the throttle cable! But, to make your life simple, install the throttle cable on the carbs before you mount them back on to the bike. Its a major pain in the ass to get it hooked once they're mounted. I just un-do my cable from the throttle handle...way easier !
TIP: When I used spray carb cleaner I noticed the straw was too big to stick in the carb holes, so I took a cigarette lighter to melt the straw end just a little bit. While it was hot, I pulled the straw to make a sharp point, like a needle. Let it cool, like under cold water, then cut the edge off to reveal a fine pointed/needle like straw. It will now get into the tiny passages easily. Just don't break it off in the hole or you'll really be up shit creek

[RobertTravis]

Don't fret about o-rings being unobtanium...You can get ANY o-ring you want in a number of profiles (X-ring, round or square + others) from McMaster.com - Just mic out the ones you have and get new ones.