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Tips and Tricks........

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  • #16
    I count the turns also, only difference is that first I push the wheel all the way "in", so the slack is maximum. Then I slightly tighten the adjustment nuts until it starts to tighten the chain, but not quite yet. Thats the point where I start to count the turns. Usually I tighten both by 1/2 turn until I get almost the right slack and then fine tune, also by turning each the same amount. This should be quite precise too, the rear axle holes in swingarm should be positioned precisely.

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    • #17
      When you break an allen wrench, do NOT throw away the pieces. Chuck the long end into your reversable, rechargable drill, and you have a tool to quickly run out or run down allen bolts during disassembly/reassembly.

      Those racks of little clear plastic drawers, sold to keep fasteners, etc. in are not the best way to go. The plastic the drawers are made of is rigid and brittle, and when you take a drawer out to bring to your project, sooner or later you will step on it or drop something on it- thus leaving a hole in you otherwise neat looking rack. Fishing tackle boxes are much better- the clear pastic ones with several compartments (sometimes movable dividers) and a hinged lid.) Much less space wasted, unlimited number of compartments (just buy more boxes,) adjustable for long items. Maybe a tad expensive, but they last for years. Easy to transport or carry, hold up to errant feet and hammers. Stack on one another to take up far less shelf space. I label them on BOTH ends with a Sharpie as to what's in each box- Metric fasteners/SAE fasteners, wood screws, etc. Works for a specific project, too, as when the project is done, you can use the tackle box for the NEXT project- and I always find there are more and more fasteners and small parts needing to be organized on my workshop shelf...

      A good source of free, heavy-gauge plastic zip-lock bags: befriend someone who works in the bike department of REI or a bicycle shop. The gloves they sell come to them in heavier-gauge zip lock bags, with a single hole punched in them to keep them from puffing up due to altitude changes during shipping. The gloves are almost always hung on the store pegs after being taken out of the bags. Altho not ideal for BB's (which can fall out of that hole) they are great for slightly larger parts. I have things like hose clamps in one, zip ties in another, etc.
      "Stevie B" Boudreaux

      I ride: '01 Triumph Sprint ST

      Projects: Honda CB650 Bobber projects I, II and III

      Take care of: 81 Honda CM400,72 Suzuki GT550

      Watch over/advise on: 84 Honda Nighthawk 700S (now my son's bike)

      For sale, or soon to be: 89 Katana 1100, 84 Honda V45 Magna, 95 Yamaha SECA II, 99 GSXR600, 95 ZX-6, 84 Kaw. KZ700, 01 Bandit 1200, 74 CB360.

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      • #18
        If you have a stuck allen or torx, use the cutoff allens or torx screw driver and tap the tool with a hammer lightly while trying to turn. Usually this will break it lose without busting knuckles or bolts. Don't hit too hard though or you can break the head off the bolt/screw.
        Ride it like you stole it!

        1994 Suzuki Katana 750

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        • #19
          When putting the exhaust seals and locks back in, slather them with grease. This helps them stick in the holes. It'll all burn off when you first fire up the bike.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by ATOMonkey View Post
            When putting the exhaust seals and locks back in, slather them with grease. This helps them stick in the holes. It'll all burn off when you first fire up the bike.
            Or just take a small dab of the antiseize that you're putting on the exhaust bolts (you did use it right? lol) on each seal.

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            • #21
              Yes yes, I'm also talking about #2 in this exploded diagram

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              • #22
                Instead of using a spair fuel tank or even a portable fuel tank when working on carbs. Eleveate your gas tank once removed, take 2 pieces of 1/4" fuel line attach to the front and back of the petcock. attacheh one to carb's 1/2 fuel intake, and the other to carb's 3/4 intake. Plug the vaccume line off carb 4. Set tank to Pri and voila, out of the way gas source.

                ( figured this one out while getting sick of the curley shuffle with the tank dealing with carb troubles )
                sigpic

                '95 Kat 600 (Sold)
                '10 BMW S1000RR (aka Black Betty)(Totaled)
                '11 BMW S1000RR (aka Bumblebee) Shine Yellow

                In ur thinky box, steeelin ur dumz

                If you love something, set it free. If it comes back to you, you probably high sided.

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                • #23
                  hmm well make sure u know how to use a tool before clipping other tools to it and adding extensions...im in auto school now and have seen many of my classmates break bolts off and strip threads with this technique all it does is make their life harder...make sure u know what ur doin

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                  • #24
                    If you're taking a bolt or a screw out where you need to make sure it doesn't get dropped, attach a magnet to your wrench/screwdriver to make the tip magnetized.
                    02 Katana 600 (weekend toy) 11.892 @ 111.92 MPH
                    90 GSXR 750/1216
                    96 Chevy S-10 (work truck)
                    87 Rear Engine Dragster 8.46 @ 157MPH
                    sigpic

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                    • #25
                      bump^^ nice tip i never thought of that one

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                      • #26
                        If you have a screw that is in a hole,and dont have a magnet to pick a screw out, try putting a bit of chewing gum or Goop on the end of a screwdriver so that after the screw has been unscrewed it sticks to the driver to pull out easier and wont drop back oin the hole.

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                        • #27
                          Strip an allen head, get the closest fitting torx bit and hammer it on. The torx will usually give a better bite into the head and allow you to break the bolt free. Don't have a torx. Coat the tip of the allen key in oil and sand. The sand will fill in the small crevices and keep the bolt from stripping further.

                          Working on an exhaust? Let the engine warm up to operating temperature. Use welding gloves or other thick gloves to avoid burning yourself and remove the bolts with ease. This is like heating the bolts with a torch, without the need for a torch.

                          Learn how to use heat to loosen bolts properly. If you are a beginner use a cooler gas such as propane instead of mapp. The hotter the gas the more precise you have to work. Use caution not to heat up both parts at the same time.

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                          • #28
                            If you're working in a tight space and can't get a nut onto a bolt with your fingers, put a piece of tape across the open or box end of a wrench and use that tape to hold the nut in the wrench.

                            When doing a carb rebuild. Find a couple of cheap slotted screw drivers. Grind them so that both flats are parallel (not wedge shape). The screw driver should fit pretty snug in the jet, but it's more important that it is NOT wedge shaped. Also, make sure that your screw driver blade is WIDER than the jet. This will keep you from stripping/breaking jets when doing a carb rebuild.
                            Last edited by ATOMonkey; 05-14-2009, 09:09 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                            • #29
                              I gotta good tip... after using a rattle can to paint something you need to clean the tip right? I just pull it off the can and press it onto a can of brake clean and give it a quick spurt. Now it is cleaned from the inside without waisting paint.

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                              • #30
                                when using rattle can
                                before use put in warm water it will atomise better and you get a better paint job

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