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Help - Open engine neglected bike :|

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  • #31
    Originally posted by katanarider View Post
    If you've pulled the float needle valves out
    TIP: When I used spray carb cleaner I noticed the straw was too big to stick in the carb holes, so I took a cigarette lighter to melt the straw end just a little bit. While it was hot, I pulled the straw to make a sharp point, like a needle. Let it cool, like under cold water, then cut the edge off to reveal a fine pointed/needle like straw. It will now get into the tiny passages easily. Just don't break it off in the hole or you'll really be up shit creek
    Love this idea, thanks. Cheers for the other suggestions too. Given that all the bits work freely with the carbs together I think I'll opt to leave them connected and just clean them up like that unless anyone pipes up with a good reason to pull them to bits!

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    • #32
      Originally posted by RobertTravis View Post
      Don't fret about o-rings being unobtanium...You can get ANY o-ring you want in a number of profiles (X-ring, round or square + others) from McMaster.com - Just mic out the ones you have and get new ones.
      Have you found the o-rings that fit the diaphragm slides?
      If so, let me know...Please
      I believe they are different sizes from top to bottom. I still need to pull mine apart again. I noticed bubbles of fuel coming from around the brass, between the plastic while idling. Normal ?
      My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
      http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

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      • #33
        Originally posted by katanarider View Post
        Have you found the o-rings that fit the diaphragm slides?
        If so, let me know...Please
        I believe they are different sizes from top to bottom. I still need to pull mine apart again. I noticed bubbles of fuel coming from around the brass, between the plastic while idling. Normal ?
        Bubbles normal? Ah...No!

        I don't know the exact o-rings you need for your setup, BUT...a trip to Horrible Freight will get you a cheap but better than you need digital caliper. Just measure the thickness of the o-ring and the diameter. Then get them from McMaster.

        Take care when measuring not to distort it by squeezing too hard or you'll get a wrong measurement.

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        • #34
          So, new seals etc arriving in the week, everything's much cleaner and can actually see through holes that were previously bunged up. One thing, when I was talking the choke slider off, it had only 3 screws holding it on not 4, when I've looked at OEM diagrams of this assembly the parts list only suggests there are 3, anyone know why please?

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          • #35
            Help Removing Needle Jet?

            Hey, any advice on how to remove the needle jet from 2002 600 carbs please, I don't have a picture of it to upload right now but it's part 15 on this diagram:

            Shop online for OEM Carburetor parts that fit your 2002 Suzuki GSX600F, search all our OEM Parts or call at 269-385-1540 ext 1342


            It's buried down the bottom of the tube the jet holder came out of and I can't see how to get it our without destroying it? My carbs don't look the same as those in Carbs 101 so that's not really helpful for this particular bit! Is it maybe best to leave it where it is is and just flush it out with some carb cleaner and air?

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            • #36
              You need to reference cabs 102 not 101.
              "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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              • #37
                Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                You need to reference cabs 102 not 101.
                Now this whole thing makes a lot more sense, though still not sure how to get the part out I'm talking about, will post a pic tomorrow.

                In Carbs 102 it talks about a spacer "Also, be VERY careful at this point. With the tube out, there is a small spacer that the jet rides in." It's possible this is the same bit of brass causing me problems but no idea how I can knock it out as suggested, hoping I'm just being a bit simple here

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                • #38



                  1: DIAPHRAGM COVER 13502-19E00
                  2: SPRING 13573-19E00
                  3: HOLDER 13418-33E00
                  4: 0 RING D:1.9 ID 09280-05004 D:1.9 ID:4.8
                  5: SPRING 13481-04F00
                  6: WASHER 13382-19E00
                  7: E RING, JET NOZ 13394-17E60
                  8-1: RING 13387-44030 [MODEL Y]
                  9: NEEDLE,JET 13383-19E30 (5DH30-54)
                  10: DIAPHRAGM 13507-19E00
                  11: VALVE,PISTON 13501-19E30
                  12: JET,NEEDLE(P-0M 09494-00921 P-OM
                  13: HOLDER,JET 13385-19E00
                  14: O RING 13246-43010

                  15-1: M/J 115 (N10222 09491-23012 [LH, RH]
                  15-2: M/J 112.5 (N102 09491-22014 (112.5)
                  16-1: VALVE ASSY,NEED 13370-07F00 (2.3)
                  17: FLOAT ASSY 13250-04F00
                  18: SCREW 02112-0408A
                  19: SCREW 13602-05A10
                  20: FLOAT PIN 13254-01010
                  21: GASKET 13258-04F00
                  22-1: JET,AIR(160) 09493-32007 (160)
                  22-2: (CA) JET, POWER 09492-30013 (150)
                  23: JET, PILOT 09492-12008 #12.5
                  24: JET,STARTER,50 09491-50006
                  25: O RING 13295-29900
                  26: WASHER 13291-29900
                  27: SPRING 13268-48700
                  28-1: ADJUSTER 13279-33E00
                  28A: PLUG 13281-05A00
                  29: SCREW 02112-04107
                  30-1: PLUG DRAIN 13247-02340
                  31: SCREW 13247-33E00
                  32: PLUNGER 13411-05300
                  33: SPRING 13417-26D00
                  34: O RING 13278-47090
                  35: HOLDER GUIDE 13418-44080
                  36: STARTER VALVE C 13682-31210
                  37: CAP 13274-84000
                  38: CLIP 09401-06101
                  39-2: HOSE (CA) 13684-02F10
                  [RH MODEL Y/K1/K2 E3/E28]
                  42: (CA)NIPPLE 13685-48B00

                  ------------------------------------------------

                  Thankfully Bike Bandit has a schematic available to check how things break down...but I am not seeing a spacer in there.

                  This is for the 2000 Kat600.
                  Last edited by RobertTravis; 05-19-2017, 05:22 PM.

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                  • #39
                    Thanks, I found the spacers buried down where the large emulsion tube came from, weren't mentioned or shown in my Haynes manual either, glad they're all still there though!!

                    The bit I can't get at looks to be from under where the pilot jet (jet with the smaller hole) came out. Again not listed in my manual or the image posted above.

                    I can't seem to upload images here only links to images so can't put a pic up of what I'm on about!

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      I use Photo Bucket someone else here said Imgur.com has less pop-up ads. Anyway, you have to upload your pictures there now because Katriders.com got a virus from people uploading bogus photos with malicous code in them.
                      Once you do that, right click to copy the link from Photo Bucket or Imgur.com. Then here in Katriders, click the little plantet earth symbol tab. Once you do that a window will appear that says "Please enter the URL link". In that window, delete the "http://". Finally, right click to paste your link. Its a bunch of bull shit that I've complained about for a couple of years now, but it is what it is. Ass holes want to hack everybodies computers these days, so what can you do?
                      Anyway, sounds like your talking about your choke circuit is spraying fuel. Make sure its not engaged/pins pushed in.
                      My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                      http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

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                      • #41
                        I'll sort out an account shortly then. Yes my mistake it is the choke/starter jet that has what looks to be another o ring and another bit of brass under it, the choke plungers are all removed though so can't be engaged?
                        Last edited by Seft; 05-20-2017, 01:35 PM.

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                        • #42
                          When it comes to rebuilding the carbs which are all nice n clean now, where can i find torque settings for all the different parts, Haynes Manuel doesn't list anything? Have the same question for the nuts for valve clearance adjustment too!?

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                          • #43
                            I haven't seen any for the carbs
                            "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
                            spammer police
                            USAF veteran
                            If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                              I haven't seen any for the carbs
                              Hmmm, ah well, guess I'll opt for a random tightness between tight and not too tight and hope for the best! I was expecting with the fittings being brass that they'd specify what these needed to be as presumably easy to damage if overtightened!

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                              • #45
                                I don't think there are and torque specs for the carbs. It's one of those cases where you have to use your best judgement given the fastener size and material. It is imperative that you have the proper screwdrivers for the fasteners like JIS (there are zero Phillips screws on these bikes) and the right blade regular screwdriver so you don't mangle the soft brass parts. Just snug everything down.

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