[pilotdada1]

No wireing diagram infront of me now to check, just a thought. How are the headlights turned off while the starter cranks? (I'm assuming they are) Is it the ignition switch controling them or a relay somewhere? After what I've read in this thread I'd be looking at that circuit.
James

[KYT]

So, any update yet?

Sorry guys I've been busy.. as usual
Wife's 2000 CBR600F4 has been having cooling issues.
I think I resolved it by draining and bleeding the cooling system
Seems to work properly anyway

i'm curious on an update also i have the EXACT same problem, i replaced the headlight switch and it fixed the problem...but only temporarily

I don't think mine is related to the dimmer switch.
I'm thinking now, that its probably the ignition switch.. maybe
hell I don't know

No wireing diagram infront of me now to check, just a thought. How are the headlights turned off while the starter cranks? (I'm assuming they are) Is it the ignition switch controling them or a relay somewhere? After what I've read in this thread I'd be looking at that circuit.
James

uhm, I have no idea, I think the current draw to the starter doesn't leave a lot of power for the lights, mine don't go off, but they do dim a lot.
Well, when they come on anyway.
There is not a relay, on the 98+. I don't know about the pres.

I haven't been able to find a diagram for the U.S. K6, and haven't had time to stop by the dealer either. But from the Euro K2 diagram I have, it looks like it works like this..

Battery power is supplied to the ignition switch.
Ignition switch goes to a small harness connector under the gas tank, then up front to a harness above the headlight.
When on current flows to a "light switch" but I don't have a light switch that I can find, I think it only applies to the Euro models, on some of the US diagrams, the light switch harness looks like its just jumped.
So power goes from there, to the dimmer switch.
In to dimmer is yellow/white, dimmer switches between white(55w) and yellow(60w).
Yellow and white go from there to another harness connector above the headlight. Then back down to the fuse block, 15A on each, then both go back up front to the headlight harness connector (the clear one).
out from the clear harness each line splits to 2 so that 1yellow, and 1white go to each bulb.
Both bulb grounds come together in the same place the yellow, and white split apart at.
Clear harness has 5 wires in it
Brown - 3rd eye
White - 55w
Yellow - 60w
black/white - headlight ground
smaller black - 3rd eye ground

Seems like an awful waste of wiring for all that...

In the end, I'm going to just get some dielectric grease and some find finishing sand paper, to try cleaning the pins in the harness connectors (4).
If it still messes up after putting them back together, I gues I'll have to assume its an issue in the ignition switch.

This is why is I think it isn't the dimmer:
If I connect a wire to the +BATT terminal and touch it to the Y/W coming in to the dimmer, the lights will come on, even with the ignition OFF.
And the dimmer functions properly.
This is TRUE when the lights come on on their own or not.

[katman05]

Another problem I had with my headlights was when I would push the starter button the springs that gives it it's resistance were weak and not pushing the starter button out fully. So my headlights would'nt come on because the 05 shuts off the lights when cranking the engine. I fixed this by buying longer size springs and replacing them with the weak ones. Just a thought? Make sure your starter button is not sticking.

[The CyberPoet]

The '05 & '06 models have a relay system that are designed to keep the headlights from firing while the bike is being started (when the starter is actively engaged). My best guess is that the problem lies either with that relay or with the connectors feeding it.

The other obvious thing is something that DumbLuck mentioned -- I've seen some pretty crappy wiring solder jobs on the left-hand control pod for the high-/low-beam switch (and the passing switch could have the same issue). Open the control pod, spray it out very diligently with electric cleaner, then examine the four solder joints on the high-/low-beam switch, and if found satisfactory, slather as much dielectric grease into the switch as you can around that plastic barrier on the back-side. Repeat with the passing-switch. Then move to the other control pod, and do the same with the starter button.

Best of Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[KYT]

Another problem I had with my headlights was when I would push the starter button the springs that gives it it's resistance were weak and not pushing the starter button out fully. So my headlights would'nt come on because the 05 shuts off the lights when cranking the engine. I fixed this by buying longer size springs and replacing them with the weak ones. Just a thought? Make sure your starter button is not sticking.

I haven't noticed any issue with the spring in the button, I'll check it out
thanks

The '05 & '06 models have a relay system that are designed to keep the headlights from firing while the bike is being started (when the starter is actively engaged). My best guess is that the problem lies either with that relay or with the connectors feeding it.

The other obvious thing is something that DumbLuck mentioned -- I've seen some pretty crappy wiring solder jobs on the left-hand control pod for the high-/low-beam switch (and the passing switch could have the same issue). Open the control pod, spray it out very diligently with electric cleaner, then examine the four solder joints on the high-/low-beam switch, and if found satisfactory, slather as much dielectric grease into the switch as you can around that plastic barrier on the back-side. Repeat with the passing-switch. Then move to the other control pod, and do the same with the starter button.

WOAH what? a relay?! where?!?! I haven't found one, I'll check it if you can tell me where it is!
Do you have/can acquire a wiring diagram for the K6?
I haven't had any luck finding one for anything later than K2

And I've never used dielectric grease, does it conduct?
will it be ok if some of it touches other contacts?
Its supposed to rain from now until monday here, I don't know when I'm going to get a chance to work on it.
I need a garage

[The CyberPoet]

WOAH what? a relay?! where?!?! I haven't found one, I'll check it if you can tell me where it is!
Do you have/can acquire a wiring diagram for the K6?
I haven't had any luck finding one for anything later than K2

The relay for the Kats with the passing headlight-flashing button is on the cross-bar just behind the air filter & just in front of/above the battery, as part of combined relay. I have the wiring diagram, but it isn't really clear on where it is (it's in the same relay pack though).

And I've never used dielectric grease, does it conduct?

No, it doesn't conduct -- the conduction is handled by metal-metal contact. It acts like an insulator, but more-over acts as a displacement method for water & debris, to keep it from bridging the connections...

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[KYT]

The relay for the Kats with the passing headlight-flashing button is on the cross-bar just behind the air filter & just in front of/above the battery, as part of combined relay. I have the wiring diagram, but it isn't really clear on where it is (it's in the same relay pack though).

Oh, I know which relay you're talking about. I though that one was just for the flashers only!
If you have the wiring diagram that covers the US 600 K6 can you please send it to me?

No, it doesn't conduct -- the conduction is handled by metal-metal contact. It acts like an insulator, but more-over acts as a displacement method for water & debris, to keep it from bridging the connections...

AH ok cool, I was worring about it conducting, sweet well I'll pick some of that up then. Thanks!

[The CyberPoet]

If you have the wiring diagram that covers the US 600 K6 can you please send it to me?

PM me with your email address (can't send a PDF via PM's).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[ADyingBreed]

the headlights seem to be a source of neverending KR annoyment.

[KYT]

the headlights seem to be a source of neverending KR annoyment.

I WILL fix this

[The CyberPoet]

Did I mention my headlight troubleshooting webpage? Errr.. guess not:

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_headlight_electrical.html

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[KYT]

Did I mention my headlight troubleshooting webpage? Errr.. guess not:

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_headlight_electrical.html

I think I did already look at that.
Because I took my turnsignal relay out and was going to try taking it apart
but the insides are apoxied
So I checked the service manual I had, it said that relay by the battery was for the turnsignals/sidestand, didn't mention anything about it doing the headlights too.
and it didn't show any other location with a relay for the headlights, so I figured I just didn't have one.

I'm looking at this wiring diagram you sent me.
And I think its missing some stuff.
I don't see the turn signal/side stand relay on there at all.
but if I compare the wiring with one in the service manual, it looks like the 05 Addendum shows the relay and the fuse box as the same unit.
But ok lets just say an Intern screwed it up and they were supposed to be separate squares.
that section still only contains turn signal, and side stand relay stuff
Wires:
#1 - Neutral light (Bl/B)
#2 - Neutral switch (Bl)
#3 - Side stand switch (G)
#4 - Ignition line (O/Y) [looks like just power coming in to the relay]
#5 - Engine Kill switch (O/B)
#6 - (+) not sure what's going on with this one, goes to a few things [front and rear brake light switches, Neutral and Oil indicator lamps, the horn, and the 10A ignition fuse] (O/G)
#7 - (-) This one looks like it goes to the center of the turn signal switch, power IN I suppose (Lbl)

[The CyberPoet]

At this point, your guess is as good or better than mine -- I haven't had the relay open or dug into an '05/'06 enough to know the differences (just that there is a difference and it's supposedly controlled by that combo-relay). Hades, I can't even find the flasher/sidestand relay in the parts fiche today...

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[KYT]

At this point, your guess is as good or better than mine -- I haven't had the relay open or dug into an '05/'06 enough to know the differences (just that there is a difference and it's supposedly controlled by that combo-relay). Hades, I can't even find the flasher/sidestand relay in the parts fiche today...

lol we all have our off-days
I don't have a problem ordering whatever part it is I need to, if I can't fix it. I just need to know which one it is

ooo on a lighter note
I picked this up over the weekend:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482344000P

Multimeter that does Hz, Capacitence and Temp!
Was going to get the 82345, its 21.99 and not autoranging, and doesn't do Temp.
Went to Lowe's to see what they had, I have a giftcard for there from christmas. They didn't have anything I liked and were more expensive than Sears.
So I went home and checked to see if Sear's had the one I wanted in stock. When I sorted by price, I saw they had the 82344 on there, and it wasn't just a few days prior, for 16.99. It normally sells for 31.99

I went to sears and they had a couple in store, but they rang up for 31.99
the workers said they don't honor the web prices becaues they have web only specials sometimes.
So I went to the Sears.com kiosk next to the register, and ordered it online.
Turns out they were having a week-end web discount too, 10% off any tools.
so I got it for like $15.30+tax
Still ended up paying less than 16.99 for it.
Used their printer to print the invoice, and just handed it to them..
so they put my tester in a bag
LOL that was saturday, I see today its not on sale anymore
But I now have my own tester to work on the bike with.
and the continuity tone is loud enough too

[KYT]

So an update...
eh I don't have anything useful

This weekend it was in the 70's and I was going to work on the headlights.
only problem.. the lights were working..
*sigh*
I sprayed all of the harness connectors out with electronics cleaner before putting it all back together.

It's rained everyday since, until today.
It was snowing instead.
I was thinking that the issue was temperature related
So I went outside and checked it.. they work

I just don't get it....