[StevieB]

I am wondering what "test" you need to do that required the ignition switch be removed from the tree? I just removed two ignition switches and had keys made for them, and I can't imagine why you wouldn't do whatever testing with the ignition switch at least still attached to the tree- for that matter, just unplug the thing, do the test, and then plug it back in if it passes.

[KatScratchFever]

Well, I really just want to test the switch itself. I've been experiencing a lot of problems with the headlights not coming on, the bike not starting right away when I push the button, stuff like that. I've checked most of the other wiring & switches and I just want to rule this thing out as a source of the problem before I go ripping apart more stuff.

I didn't see how the wiring harness could just be unplugged from the bottom of the switch. Forgive my naiveity here, but wouldn't that be kind of stupid? In that case, a thief could just reach down there, unplug the harness and hotwire the thing?

Looking at the switch, it all looks pretty ironclad to me, like it's all one big giant solid assembly that either has to be broken apart or somehow taken apart - not something you can just separate/disassemble easily by hand.

[Black_peter]

The plug is supposed to be under the tank. But the bottom line is that the ignition lock on a bike is about as secure as if it were made of cheese. Pre 98 the switch comes apart with a screw driver. But in order to use this method to steal a bike you wold need some "alone time".. Something thieves don't usually have.

[DumbLuck]

I am wondering what "test" you need to do that required the ignition switch be removed from the tree? I just removed two ignition switches and had keys made for them, and I can't imagine why you wouldn't do whatever testing with the ignition switch at least still attached to the tree- for that matter, just unplug the thing, do the test, and then plug it back in if it passes.

i was starting to wonder why someone hadnt suggested testing from the harness connection end. almost any electrical on a bike can be tested with an ohm meter or volt meter without physicly removing said part from the bike. never forget the KISS principal.

[KatScratchFever]

Removing the whole tank isn't necessarily easier or simpler than removing the ignition switch. It kind of sounds like the same amount of PITA to me to be honest. . .

[Black_peter]

Well I never stopped to wonder because I had several issues at once on mine that required pulling it..

[KatScratchFever]

Well, I yanked the tank and tested the ignition switch at the harness. Very odd results.

I show infinite resistance between the red & orange wires with the switch "on" or "off" (no change), same with the O/R to B/W circuit.

WTF? How the hell is the bike even running/starting at all if the switch is totally FUBAR in this manner?

I'm going to have to drill out the center of my T-40 bit tonight to make it fit the silly "safety Torx" fasteners under the switch tonight since nobody evidently carries "safety Torx" (including my Suzuki dealer).

Once I yank the switch out I'll check it more fully but that's my initial result of testing at the harness. Very weird.

I hate electrical problems. I swear I'm getting ready to run a bypass direct from the battery to the headlights & starter button straight off the battery with a toggle switch and be done with this crap. Grr.

[DumbLuck]

step back, take a break and a deep breath. Give yourself a little time to study the wiring diagram again and are sure you understand it completely as to which wires do what. There is usually a really good box diagram that shows what's connected to what in the switch with it in each possision.

Many is the time i've thought i had it all identified only to realize i had a couple wires confused. I probibly shouldnt admit this either, but i've tried testing stuff with a test lead unplugged, or the meter set in the wrong mode. DOH. Electrical problems take the most patience of any troubleshooting that i am aware of.

[Black_peter]

Looking at the diagram I have (pre 98)
That test result is screwy. Try all the wiggle stuff, wiggle wires wiggle the key.
Try to get any change.

[DumbLuck]

Looking at the diagram I have (pre 98)
That test result is screwy. Try all the wiggle stuff, wiggle wires wiggle the key.
Try to get any change.

early on he stated it was a post 98 (a '99 if i remember right?). wiring colors and terminal assignments may have changed from the pre '98 wiring harness and switch. Assignment may differ between 600, 750, and 1100's too.

[crazyboy68]

the wires should pretty much be the same but u will want to check the wiring diagram anyways. also if u have a manuel they usually have a page with switches on it that will show u which ones you need to est together.

[KatScratchFever]

Update: I found the special "safety" Torx bit at a local hardware store (a mom & pop place) after coming up empty at Sears, Snap-On, an Ace, Pep Boys, a motorcycle performance shop and my Suzuki dealership. Pulled & tested the ign. switch but it tested fine.

Turns out my problems were stemming from a badly corroded/burned harness - the yellow one that sits up behind the right-side fairing next to the headlight assembly. Check those if you have electrical problems people - that harness has about 15 wires going to it and is NOT weatherproof.